127 ohms sounds OK. Go back and do all the tests again as in your first post. let's see if they still read the same. It shouldn't of course because you've fixed 1 problem already...

Also, the post you replied to initially was partially into the whole troubleshooting process where the kill switch pin had already been elimibated. Test the kill switch as follows:

1) See if you can use a small scribe or small screwdriver to bend in a catch tab on the kill switch pin in the CDI connector. Pull out the pin leaving it hanging free in free air. Try to start the quad. Does it start?

Important Note: If the quad starts you won't be able to shut it off by turning off the ignition or using any other kill switch. You will have to turn off the ignition (or set a kill switch), then insert the pin back into the connector housing until it makes contact with the CDI and kills the engine.

Super Duper Important Note: When the quad is running (or even cranking) there is high voltage on the kill switch pin on the CDI. You don't want to get your fingers inserted into the circuitry. If you need to kill the engine, make sure the ignition is off, grab the kill switch wire with insulated pliers, and then feed the (now safely grounded) kill switch wire into the CDI kill switch pin to short it to ground and kill the engine.

2) With the CDI disconnected, set all kill switches to the "run" position and turn on the ignition. Measure the resistance in ohms to ground on the kill switch wire in the connector. What do you measure? You should see infinite ohms. Use a high scale such as 200K ohms (200,000 ohms).

 

I was hoping to get a little help with my no spark issue. I did the test and the first time I had 0 volts on the AC side. I bought a new stator. I now have around 40 volts cranking and I have voltage on the trigger, but it zero's the meter on the resistance test. It is not a quick 0 like if you touch the probes together but it slowly goes to 0. I have checked this at the new plug coming off of the new stator and it is the same. This is for both the trigger and the AC. Do I have a bad Stator?

 

Forty volts on the AC ignition power (cranking) is enough to get spark. You didn't specify how much voltage you got on the timing trigger pin. What voltage did you measure there?

The ohms measurement sounds wrong. I cannot imagine what is causing the slow drop to zero ohms. I suspect your doing the measurment wrong somehow (but I don't know what yet). First, what ohms scale are you using? The resistances you are looking for are all less than 1000 ohms (1K Ohms, or 1 kilo ohm). So you should be on the 2K ohm scale (2000 ohms). Make sure you are not on the 2M ohm scale (2 million ohms), or something like that.

Are you measuring the resistance to the green ground wire, or to the engine ground? Is there any difference between the two (using the 2K ohm scale of course)?

You say it measures the same at the connector down by the stator. You have an old stator. Measure the old stator too. How do the readings compare? (You can measure the old stator resistances by itself outside the engine. You don't have to reinstall it). Do you see the strange creep to zero ohms there as well?

The stator coils (trigger, ignition power, or even the battery charge coils) are all just lengths of wire wound in a coil around a steel core of some sort. The resistance isn't going to change over a short time while you're watching. It's just a hunk of wire. That is why I suspect measurement error. Or maybe the ohms measuring function of your meter is broken.

You say the resistance goes to zero. But you also say the Ac ignition voltage is 40 volts. That is impossible. To generate 40 volts across zero ohms would require infinite current (which is impossible). Voltage = resistance * current. This is more evidence of measurement error or perhaps a bad meter.

Try doing the original tests again, taking extra care to make sure the results are 100% repeatable everytime. Also do the resistance tests on the old stator and report them as well. I'm looking for as much data as possible to help figure out what is wrong.

Do you have access to another meter to see if the results are different? Again I'm looking for as much info as I can get since I can't be there to see things for myself.

 

Ok you were right on the meter it was a bad meter. This is what I have. All readings are from engine ground.

AC ingnition Power: 40 V AC resistance 383 ohms

Timing trigger: .250 V AC resistance of 118 ohms

Ground pin to engine ground .4 ohms

So I think I have the stator fixed so I go and buy a new CDI and spark plug(needed a new one anyway) Still nothing. So I thought $20 I will put a new coil on it. Still no spark.

I checked resistance of the yellow and black ignition coil wire from the plug to the coil it was 0 so it seemed to be good. Checked the black to ground it had like .3 ohms

I did do a voltage reading on the yellow and black wire. I only got about 6 mV AC while cranking. The odd thing was I got 3mV with the CDI unhooked.

Where do you think I check from here? Also with all of these checks I have had the kill switch wire unhooked.

 

I don't see anyhthing wrong with your readings. It does look like your original stator was bad. Now it looks like you may have replaced a bad part with another bad part.

I didn't see any measurement for the ignition coil primary resistance. Measure this from the yellow black wire to ground at the coil itself. It should read less than 1 ohm, but not zero ohms.

Else we're back to two bad parts in a row. I would double check the measurments again before spending more money on parts just to eliminate measurement problems.

If I had to guess I would replace the CDI first, and I would be sure to buy one from a different source in case they have a warehouse full of bad CDIs.