It still not running. TaoTao ATA110B, was running but Christmas Eve, it died and won't restart.

Short list of what I have done or deleted :

Safety crap (Remote Kill switch-deleted, the magnetic switch under the seat-wired together)
Replaced cdi, voltage regulator, coil, handlebar kill switch. Still nothing.

Made thread. Someone suggested I use a sticky about the stator and how to check. Checked stator, values were out of whack according to sticky so I use my normal parts place and order a similar one with a different plug style. Used butt connectors/inline crimp connectors to connect connector.

I'll list the values from original stator and current, new stator. They read quite differently but still not within the values given in the sticky.


Suggested Ohm /Old Ohm/ New Ohm /Sugg Voltage/ Old Voltage /New voltage
Winding 1 1-2/ n/a /0 / 9.5 / 0.7-0.8/ 0.6
Winding 2 150/ n/a/ 120/ 0.2-0.5 /0 /2.0-2.1
Winding 3 450 /n/a /350-352/ 85 /73-74 /53
(Update the whole spacing I did to make it readable screwed up when posting, hence the forward slashes)
Ohm readings are using ground on the stator for winding 2 and 3. Winding 1(Charging) is yellow and white(ground I'm assuming), winding 2(Ignition trigger pulse) is blue/white to green ground, winding 3(AC Ignition power) is black/red to green ground. Is a AC machine and all parts are identical to ones replacled. I used a reputable parts dealer who deals exclusively with these chinese quads and karts.

Does the rotor need to be changed? I'm calling it the rotor, but it's the part that is connected to the crankshaft.

 

You have made that list very difficult to read, and actual ohms are not too important, just open circuits bad and no resistance also bad, anything in between is probably OK. Voltages on power coil at circa 53v seems fine to me as does 2v on trigger coil, so problem lies in CDI, wiring, ignition coil, or spark plug. I assume you have changed the spark plug, so, test these voltages are still present at CDI plug. Check the Kill wire(black/white) is earthed in kill, or ignition off and not earthed ignition on, kill switch on run. Check green earth to CDI is earthed. Check the output from CDI to coil, it should be quite a high voltage pulse, if you are getting one, change coil, also checking it's earth.

 

Thanks but no thanks. I'll wait for someone else's answer or comment. I followed your advice in the last post, the one where you basically berated me for buying parts. All I got now is a $50 parts bill for more parts and time wasted along with a non running quad.

Anyone else got any help?

 

Btw, I've already changed the cdi and coil. In my previous post, you basically called me an idiot for replacing those. Now, they need to be replaced in your opinion and you are also calling the sticky on stator issues wrong as the values given in that are well below what I got?

At this point, I'd believe a man selling beach front property in Idaho vs your opinions.

 

have you checked the pulse coil?
on another quad i own i had a bad pulse coil it worked then it didnt then it did then it didnt. now granted that quad had other problems, but after figuring that one out every other issue started resolving like they should.

 

Pulse coil? Like the coil pack?

I did change that for a new one. I'm actually going to try a few things on it now (Change the spark plug, check the rest of the wiring, etc). I haven't changed the plug because it was a new one I used and it seemed to test good (continuity).

 

the pulse coil usually sits right next to the stator. It detects when the engine is at tdc or just before and that triggers the coil to fire the plug. its a 2 wire sensor and when you run continuity on it it will blip then stop. thats a working reading, sometimes though they give a good reading and aren't working. they are the equivalent of a distributor in bigger engines.

honestly if youd be willing to go through and troubleshoot step by step id be happy to work through it with you. I know youve done alot and thrown alot of money at it. I like to start with the spark plug remove it from the block and leave it connected. just hold it against the block and crank it over your looking for spark. if you have spark there then you can stop chasing those ghosts. let me know what you find.

 

First off, thanks for your willingness to help, it's very much appreciated. If there's anything I've done already, I'll try to give you that info. I've put pretty much everything I've done on here.

Ok, I think I know what you are talking about. There was as small piece on my stator assembly. Here's a link to a listing for my stator.

https://www.vmcchineseparts.com/prod...-17-50cc-110cc

I'm talking about the black box that's on one side. That has been replaced when I replaced the stator. The coils fit around what they call a flywheel generator (rotor that's connected to the crankshaft).

As far as testing the spark plug as you asked, I tried that and didn't ever see a spark. I didn't think I would because I've pulled the plug after trying to start it and it was a bit wet and smelled like fuel.

Finally, earlier today while I was looking and pondering why it wasn't running and disconnected the connectors for the coil pack. When I did, one of the connectors broke away from the wires. I cut them back, stripped them, and used new connectors along with heated shrink wrap.

 

when you repaired that connection did you get spark back? you can test the coil side connections with a test lamp while your cranking it over. it should light up. if youve got power there then we can diagnose the coil if not back toward the cdi.
and if you do have power there re test the coil this time use a screwdriver in the boot near the block. be careful doing this it could shock you. this will tell you if you have spark at the boot which confirms you have a good coil.
I performed this test on one of my quads and got shocked when the plug was in the boot and I figured out the connector for the spark plug was a spring for a clothespin that had been shoved through the insulation it made contact with the plug and wire but the colder it got the more the spark jumped to the nearest ground I repaired that connection and can now start the quad reliably.
Im happy to try helping, Ive never been one to want someone to throw parts at a problem until it works. That gets expensive.

 

your also correct thats black box is a pulsed coil its purpose is to sense the field and send a trigger to spark. as far as not getting spark when your plug is wet use a little air from a compressor and blow it off then a fine piece of sand paper or a striker from a matchbook to clear the contacts.