Hensim 150 CC not shifting right.
#11
The shift lever you work with your hands pulls on a cable which moves a lever back and forth on the Forward/Neutral/Reverse [FNR] gear box (where the engine drive sprocket attaches). The movement of this lever is adjustable, and its proper adjustment is critically important.
The first question on my mind is whether the shift lever cable is moving the FNR gear box lever through its full range, or if there is something wrong in the gear box itself.
Look at the shift cable at each end and look for anchor points that are loose or broken. Look for slack in the cable movement where you move the hand operated shift lever, but the FNR gear box lever doesn't move. This would be a problem that needs to be fixed.
You can also disconnect the cable from the FNR gear box and move the lever manually with the rear wheels jacked up off the ground to test its operation. Please be *really* careful with a jacked up quad. This can be dangerous - both because of spinning machinery (with a lot of inertia) that you can get caught up in, and because a quad with spiining wheels can take off if it falls off the jack stands. Tether the quad, keep the forward path clear, and stay away from all moving parts.
If the FNR is not quite adjusted right the quad will lurch in either forward or reverse because the partially engaged gears will attempt to climb out of gear. This is especially prevalent under load (like going up a hill). But it sounds like your problem is much more severe than slight misadjustment.
The first question on my mind is whether the shift lever cable is moving the FNR gear box lever through its full range, or if there is something wrong in the gear box itself.
Look at the shift cable at each end and look for anchor points that are loose or broken. Look for slack in the cable movement where you move the hand operated shift lever, but the FNR gear box lever doesn't move. This would be a problem that needs to be fixed.
You can also disconnect the cable from the FNR gear box and move the lever manually with the rear wheels jacked up off the ground to test its operation. Please be *really* careful with a jacked up quad. This can be dangerous - both because of spinning machinery (with a lot of inertia) that you can get caught up in, and because a quad with spiining wheels can take off if it falls off the jack stands. Tether the quad, keep the forward path clear, and stay away from all moving parts.
If the FNR is not quite adjusted right the quad will lurch in either forward or reverse because the partially engaged gears will attempt to climb out of gear. This is especially prevalent under load (like going up a hill). But it sounds like your problem is much more severe than slight misadjustment.
Thank you for the information. I will take a look today after work. It weird the only thing I did before it stopped working was adjust the throttle lock in for my daughter. Would that have something to do with it?
It shifts but at sometimes it is tight to get into gear and the lever will shift out of gear but the tav is still in gear.
I will take a look. Thanks again.
#12
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Follow the fat red wire from the battery to the starter solenoid input screw post. Identify the fat red wire from the other solenoid post that goes to the starter motor.
Set the brake, and make sure you are in neutral before proceeding. You are about to bypass the start safety interlocks.
Using the shank of a screwdriver, short the two solenoid screw posts together. Don't mind a few sparks...
1) Does the starter motor turn?
2) Does the quad start up?
When you apply 12 volts across the two small wires on the starter solenoid it drives a coil, which makes a magnetic field, which sucks down a steel plate, which shorts those two screw posts together just like you are doing with the screwdriver. That hooks the battery directly to the starter motor.
So if the starter motor turns when you short the screw posts then your battery and starter are good. Then we can start testing the solenoid and the circuitry that drives the solenoid input wires. You'll need a meter for that.
If the starter doesn't turn then your battery is discharged, your battery is bad, your starter motor is bad, you have a bad connection, or your engine is frozen (the last is the least likely of all the possibilities). You'll need a meter to proceed down this path also.
#14
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This will measure the battery directly: Set your meter to DC volts using the 20 volt scale. Measure the battery voltage right on the two battery posts while jumping across the solenoid posts with the screwdriver as outlined before. You should have at least 11.5 volts at the battery and the starter motor turning.
#16
wow so i got this quad with a clogged carburator, i just jumped started it and tried the electric start and it started right up, thanks so much guys for the help, the kid i got it from said it would die when you accelerated, i cleaned the carb and hit the gas and it was screaming loud, im so happy i came here to get the help i needed, now to just some performance parts and reinstalling the kickstarter
#17
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wow so i got this quad with a clogged carburator, i just jumped started it and tried the electric start and it started right up, thanks so much guys for the help, the kid i got it from said it would die when you accelerated, i cleaned the carb and hit the gas and it was screaming loud, im so happy i came here to get the help i needed, now to just some performance parts and reinstalling the kickstarter
#18
#19
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When cold the bystarter valve (autochoke) opens up an extra fuel passage to make the fuel/air mixture richer (more fuel for the same amount of air). This is backwards from the standard "choke" method where a plate is used to starve the carburetor of air (less air for the same amount of fuel).
On a working quad, when you start up the quad the electrical wires to the bystarter valve heat up a wax pellet, which expands, and pushes closed the valve that opens up that extra fuel passage. So when you say the autochoke is unplugged then it is always and forever in the enrichened fuel mode. So the classic symptoms would be: Starts up great and runs progressively worse as the quad warms up. But that is not what you are saying.
So if your quad runs better when warm, and the autochoke (bystarter) unplugged then that says you are running way lean which is being somewhat compensated by the bystarter choke being in the enrichen mode (i.e. it is unplugged). It would be the same as someone with a standard air plate choke saying my quad only runs with the choke applied. That indicates carburetion problems, not choke problems.
Another possibility is an air leak in the intake manifold. GY6 engines are notorious for air leaks through a crack in the rubber manifold that is often hard to see. Spray carburetor cleaner around the intake manifold while the engine is running. Any change in the engine speed or sound indicates a leak.
Yes, but do not use a charger at anything higher than 2 amps. But this isn't going to save a bad battery. If your battery is bad you're going to have to change it. But if you do, be sure to also check the charging system so that your new battery doesn't also go dead, sit around that way, and get get ruined...