You did excellent. It looks like your stator is OK - so it's time to get a new regulator.

Caution: You have the generic 110cc quad style stator (as determined from the measurements you took). You want to buy a generic regulator for 110cc quads. But be aware that there are several other stators designs out there and many use the same 4 pin connector for the regulator. Choose your vendor carefully. If you buy a regulator that isn't compatible it isn't going to work - even if the connectors mate up. If they make claims that their regulator fits GY6 engines stay away. That won't work. Some vendors (like on eBay) make claims that their regulators fit GY6 engines *and* 110cc engines. That's not possible.

I bought four each 4 pin regulators on eBay a year or so ago. I chose the vendors based on cheap price, and the most outrageous claims. I don't have a quad that uses a four pin regulator - I just wanted to take them apart and see what's inside... I was curious - but not curious enough to buy anything but the cheapest . All four regulators were incomaptible with each other. Only one of the four could have worked with your stator.

 

Thanks Lynn, You have been great help, Wish there was someone local to me that had you're knowledge. Now is the hard part to find where i can get parts for this quad.

 

Help again sorry ,A local bike shop is trying to get me a new regulator. Since we last spoke i havent not ran quad, i tried it tonight. Now before we spoke there was once when the negative wire (green) from where they all join on he harness to the coil the wire meted and stuck to another wire. I replaced this wire. Now tonight it has happened again. The negative wire from the battery to the harness where they all join has melted. Thee is 8 feeds off the negative wire. Is this because there is no regulator?

 

Melting a wire takes a *lot* of current going through it. We need to find the source of that current.

Unplugging your regulator has nothing to do with this problem.

Check your fuse coming off the battery. It should be a reasonable value like 7 amps. It should not be 30 amps. If it is 7 amps (or there abouts) then look *very* carefully at your fat heavy ground return wires from the starter to the negative battery terminal. This may be a single fat heavy wire from the engine directly to the negative battery terminal, or it may be a fat heavy wire from the engine to the frame, and then another fat heavy wire from the frame to the negative battery terminal. Inspect them carefully and clean them as needed. If this return connection to the negative battery terminal is bad, the current will instead return through the small ground wires. They can't handle the large starter motor current and will melt. Note how this current path bypasses the fuse completely. The current flows down the positive unfused fat heavy starter motor cable, and then has to return through the small ground wires in the quad if the fat heavy ground return path is compromised. The small ground wires burn...

It is kind of like my return commute home from work. I normally take the freeway (the fat wide heavy path), but if the lanes get blocked (like a bad roadway connection) I veer off the freeway and try to instead return through teeny side streets (along with 10000 other commuters). Horns blare, things heat up, these teeny side paths just can't that amount of traffic....

For this to be your scenario you need to verify that your fuse is a reasonable value, and the ground wire(s) burn only while cranking the starter motor. And they must be *ground* wire(s) the burn - not anything else. If all three of these things aren't true then we need to make some more measurements...

 

Thanks Lynn, the fat ground from battery to the engine had came off. I have now replaced all the wires. As for the fuse comming off the battery it had a 13 amp in there. I dont have any 7 amps i have 5 amps if thats any good, or is 13 amp fuse ok?

 

A 13 amp fuse will allow an electrical fault in the quad to make up to 3.45 times as much heat as a 7 amp fuse without blowing the fuse (13 divided by 7 quantity squared). A 30 amp fuse will allow a fault to make up to 18.37 times as much heat without blowing as a 7 amp fuse.

Fuses are there to prevent fire, and fires are caused by heat. So now you have the numbers to make an informed risk/benefit decision. If it were me I would change the fuse (fuses are cheap), and buy a couple extra and stash them away in the quad somewhere.

A 5 amp fuse may work too, but if you try and crank the quad for a long with the headlights on, you run the risk of blowing the 5 amp fuse even if nothing is wrong. The activation coil on the starter solenoid draws 3 amps (roughly), and the headlights draw 3 amps (roughly), plus the brake light must be on (starter safety interlock), etc. All this adds up to 6.5 amps or so. It would take a long time to blow a 5 amp fuse with a 30% overload, but it is possible...

 

Hi Lynn, Just an update. I have got 2 regulators from 2 different dealers and both of them have not worked, Tried them both today. I will need to return them hopefully they should take them back ok.
I know i did the voltage test on the stator, the guy at the shop said it should be putting out 35-70 volts, but the test i did wasnt as high as this. before I return them I'd like to be sure that the stator isn't to blame.

Now that I cant find a regulator what can i do? Is there any way i can customise a regulator to fit or will the quad be useless now?

 

This problem with so many incompatible regulators for the same 4 pin connector is a tough one. I remember when I was taking the 4 regulators apart and tracing them out I was thinking to myself that anyone faced with having to change their four pin regulator and finding a compatible one was going to have a hard time. Let me think about this one for a day or so...

The "guy at the shop" is confused. The 35 to 70 volts AC is the voltage coming off the AC ignition power winding in the stator. This runs the CDI and ignition system only. It has absolutely *nothing* to do with the battery charging system. The battery charge windings in the stator are much lower voltage and much higher current. Again these windings are completely separate from ignition power winding, and these both are completely separate from the ignition trigger pulse winding.

 

I went back through the posts and reread them.

Let's doublecheck some stuff. There are two types of stators on 50cc quads: Two coil stators and six coil stators. Here are two pictures showing the difference:





These require different regulators even though they may look the same, and use the same connectors. Back on 12/06/11 you posted voltage results that suggest that you have a two coil design (instead of the 6 coil). It may be worth while to remeasure those voltages and make sure they are accurate. It's also remotely possible that there is an internal short to ground that could make a 6 coil stator look like a 2 coil stator but that would be very rare. A six coil stator has infinite resistance to ground looking into the stator yellow or white wires with the stator unplugged from the wiring harness. A two coil stator has a low resistance to ground on both wires. You could always pull off the flywheel and look to see what stator you have. I did a brief search on the internet and found 50cc engines that had both 2 coil and 6 coil stators.

So out of curiousity, try to measure the voltages as you did on 12/06/11, but this time measure them at a medium fast engine speed. Try to, say, double the engine speed from idle. What voltages do you measure at idle and at the faster engine speed. Faraday induction law says you should get twice the voltages at twice the engine speed. Let's see if your stator follows that law...

Did the battery charge system on this quad ever work? Or did it fail sometime after you bought it?

When you plug the regulator in and run the engine for a while at medium fast speed, does the regulator get warm? Hot? Does it stay stone cold?

Try swapping the yellow and white wires at the regulator. Do the battery charge test again and see if any difference (i.e. does you battery voltage go to 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC with the engine running at medium fast speed with the headlights off.) Any difference with the wires swapped? If not swap them back.

Try disconnecting the ground wire at the voltage regulator (green wire). Also unbolt the regulator from the frame and let it hang free. Repeat the battery charge test again as in the previous paragraph. Any change? On a lot of regulators removing the ground causes the regulator to go into overcharge mode. In other words it charges as hard as it can without ever letting up. This should result in a battery voltage that is higher than 14.5 volts at medium fast engine speed.

As you tell I'm fishing for more information so more light can be shed on this problem....

 

Hi Lynne, Sorry i havent got back to you. I have no internet as i was moving home.
Went back the guy at bike shop and told him regulator didnt work, as i guessed i couldnt get my money back untill he sees the quad. He says the regulator will not be faulty and is adamant that the stator is to blame. I have not been to him with quad as i know what will happen, He will blame the stator and say regulator is fine. He told me if i could not get stator for it, i can send it away to get recoiled. I have waited to hear from you.
So i have been out and removed the cover i actually have 6 coil stator! Not sure if this changes anything you have said. I will do the tests again tomorrow. I bought quad as non runner. I already have regulator unbolted from frame. As for it getting hot, it was but unsure as it was hanging beside the engine. Look forward to hearing from you.