china 110cc starter button doesn't work...
#11
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
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thank you for getting back to me i am thinking about through a relay but i cant seem to get my head around it lol . the three wires from my start cluster are black /white trace green and yellow with red trace this is live as soon as the ignition is on i have control of the ignition through the remote and kill though the remote but the start is bugging me thank you
I think you're trying to add a remote control module to and existing (and working) Kazuma Falcon 90. Am I right?
If so, where did you get this remote module? Did this module come with any documentation that you could send via email? Do you have a wiring diagram of your kazuma falcon 90?
What do you mean by "three wires from my start cluster"? What is a start cluster?
#12
black wire
Thanks again Lynn! You are awesome! Here's an update on quad 2: I wired the solenoid wire that wasn't going to the brake lights to a loose green ground wire coming from harness that was tied into the other green ground wires. There was also a lose wire that went to the starter button and the alarm but the wire coming back from the starter button wasn't grounded so there was no power being sent to the starter when the button is pushed. So, I just grounded the wire coming back from the start button and everything works great! Weird huh? Is that how the remote start works-by grounding and ungrounding the starter circuit like in Plan A through the alarm/remote module? It makes sense to me. Maybe if I had the remote I could have figured out if the alarm/remote was locking it out. The brake lights, lockout switch, ignition switch, and starter button all work like they should now except the ignition switch won't shut off the quad because the alarm is disconnected. You mentioned something about that in your last response. I am not sure about the history of this quad. Somebody has been messing with it though. The original coil had one wire coming from it that was not hooked up. It didn't look original. I swapped it out with a coil from a parts quad and then I had spark. Also, there was the wrong carb spacer. It was way too big and would leak air and rev high. It definently wasn't original so I swapped that spacer for the right size and it ran fine. All is good with quad 2 except getting the battery to stay charged. I just need to put it on the slow charger for while.
Here is an update on quad 1: This quad does not have an alarm. It does not have an ignition switch either which is strange. I think somebody had been messing with this one too. There were a couple of wires coming from the front of the harness that were not connected to anything and they didn't have any connectors on them. The wires were the fused red power wire coming from the battery, the black wire coming from the brake switches, and a green ground wire. So, I connected the red power wire to the black brake switch wire. The brake lights come on and the starter button works! The starter button was not grounded but the solenoid was so it looks like it is wired like in Plan B even though it is a bigger quad that doesn't have a remote. Quad 2 with a remote is wired like Plan A. It is like they are backwards! The only thing that doesn't work right on quad 1 is the headlights do not come on until the quad is running. Any idea why that is?
So, in summary both quads are now working great! Thanks again Lynn! Those wiring diagrams and your insight were very helpful!
Here is an update on quad 1: This quad does not have an alarm. It does not have an ignition switch either which is strange. I think somebody had been messing with this one too. There were a couple of wires coming from the front of the harness that were not connected to anything and they didn't have any connectors on them. The wires were the fused red power wire coming from the battery, the black wire coming from the brake switches, and a green ground wire. So, I connected the red power wire to the black brake switch wire. The brake lights come on and the starter button works! The starter button was not grounded but the solenoid was so it looks like it is wired like in Plan B even though it is a bigger quad that doesn't have a remote. Quad 2 with a remote is wired like Plan A. It is like they are backwards! The only thing that doesn't work right on quad 1 is the headlights do not come on until the quad is running. Any idea why that is?
So, in summary both quads are now working great! Thanks again Lynn! Those wiring diagrams and your insight were very helpful!
#14
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
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Dame0927:
I see you made another post in the Signature Test Forum:
Hi , I'm stuck on a situation we have a chinese 110cc atv it won't start without being jumped with a jump box i tried to start it wthout the jump box and nothing. I got a new battery,new carb.,changed oil ,new spark plug,but when it's start it stay started but i don't want to have jump all the time,so please can some body help me and asked a few people and they said it can be a cdi box,silinoid, idk please help. it runs and goes but when it starts it will try to take off and the brake barely stops it ?
Dame0927
Dame0927
Is this the same quad?
What exactly is a "jump box"? And where are you connecting this? Is it to the battery?
If so, and if the quad cranks and starts from an external power source, but not from your battery, then there are only three possibilities:
1) Your battery is bad.
2) Your battery is discharged
3) You have a bad connection between the battery and where ever you are hooking up this mysterious "jump box" (whatever that is).
Got a voltmeter?
#15
Similar problem cant figure out
I've got a 110cc chinese quad, have no idea the year, make or model.
the motor case says "Linmax".
my starter button does not work with or without the brake on.
I have replaced all the electrical components (relay, solenoid, and voltage regulator) and have it connected to fully charged battery.
Attached is a drawing of my circuit.
I found two little plastic parts which contain diodes inside attached inline on the brake switch line to the relay.
From the brake switches is resting 12vdc, when I press the brakes it switches to negative.
with everything connected the way I found it, it will not do anything when the start button is pressed (regardless of the brakes are pressed or not and regardless of it's in neutral or not)
if I remove the diode and allow the 12vdc to go through to the relay, the relay clicks over and I'm able to press the start button and start the quad.
However, if I press the brake while trying to start it doesn't work because the 12vdc turns negative.
on one terminal of the relay is a wire from the neutral safety switch and neutral light, it is negative when in neutral and open when in gear.
one terminal on the relay is from the start button on the handle bars and provides 12vdc when pushed.
the last terminal on the relay goes to the starter solenoid and sends 12vdc to activate the solenoid and starter when the start button is pressed.
It seems to me that somehow the brake input needs to feed 12vdc in order for it to work but I cant figure out how to accomplish that.
Im drowning here, Anyone know how to figure this out??
the motor case says "Linmax".
my starter button does not work with or without the brake on.
I have replaced all the electrical components (relay, solenoid, and voltage regulator) and have it connected to fully charged battery.
Attached is a drawing of my circuit.
I found two little plastic parts which contain diodes inside attached inline on the brake switch line to the relay.
From the brake switches is resting 12vdc, when I press the brakes it switches to negative.
with everything connected the way I found it, it will not do anything when the start button is pressed (regardless of the brakes are pressed or not and regardless of it's in neutral or not)
if I remove the diode and allow the 12vdc to go through to the relay, the relay clicks over and I'm able to press the start button and start the quad.
However, if I press the brake while trying to start it doesn't work because the 12vdc turns negative.
on one terminal of the relay is a wire from the neutral safety switch and neutral light, it is negative when in neutral and open when in gear.
one terminal on the relay is from the start button on the handle bars and provides 12vdc when pushed.
the last terminal on the relay goes to the starter solenoid and sends 12vdc to activate the solenoid and starter when the start button is pressed.
It seems to me that somehow the brake input needs to feed 12vdc in order for it to work but I cant figure out how to accomplish that.
Im drowning here, Anyone know how to figure this out??
#16
#17
Brake switch wires
Ok, so on the relay the wire from the brake switches is Brown w/ yellow stripe, splits off to two diodes and comes out green w/ yellow stripe, then they both tie back together and goes to hand brake switches, to foot brake switch and to the tail light.
the second wire on the foot brake switch is a green (ground), the hand brake switches is a green (ground), there are two other wires on the brake light which are a black and a brown and are both 12vdc.
the second wire on the foot brake switch is a green (ground), the hand brake switches is a green (ground), there are two other wires on the brake light which are a black and a brown and are both 12vdc.
#18
Brake switch wires
So the brake switch wire on the relay is brown w/yellow stripe splits off to two diodes and comes out green w/yellow stripe then ties back together and goes to the hand brake levers, the foot brake lever and the tail light.
the second wire on the hand brake levers is green (negative), the second wire on the foot brake is green (negative), on the tail light there are two other wires, a black and a brown which are both 12vdc.
when either hand brake lever or the foot brake is applied the brake light comes on and the voltage on the green w/yellow stripe turns to negative.
the second wire on the hand brake levers is green (negative), the second wire on the foot brake is green (negative), on the tail light there are two other wires, a black and a brown which are both 12vdc.
when either hand brake lever or the foot brake is applied the brake light comes on and the voltage on the green w/yellow stripe turns to negative.
#19
Sorry but it looks like someone has wired the bike up wrongly, and I can't work out what without the wiring diagram, which will probably be impossible to find. Only thing I can suggest is cutting out the relay, and wiring the start button direct to the thin solenoid wire which requires pos. You must ensure you only start the bike in neutral if you do this as it can be dangerous, and also puts strain on the starter mechanism if you try to start in gear.
#20
Bad wiring
Sorry but it looks like someone has wired the bike up wrongly, and I can't work out what without the wiring diagram, which will probably be impossible to find. Only thing I can suggest is cutting out the relay, and wiring the start button direct to the thin solenoid wire which requires pos. You must ensure you only start the bike in neutral if you do this as it can be dangerous, and also puts strain on the starter mechanism if you try to start in gear.
When I couldn't get the start button to work, I cut off all the factory black tape in an effort to trace the wiring and figure out the problem.
I am quite baffled by it, as it appears the way that it's wired I'm not sure how it could have ever worked.
My thought was to simply remove the brake wire off of the relay and supply it with 12vdc from the key.
if I did it that way, everything would work and the quad would start. It still wouldn't start in gear, as the neutral safety switch would still be active.
W
This is the way I got it. It had been sitting out in the sun for about 4 years.
This is how it currently sits. Brand new set of plastics on standby ready to be installed once I get it running.
hat is your opinion on that plan?