trying to get start switch working
#1
trying to get start switch working
i have a chinese quad ran the vin and came back as made in china in 2002 nothing else
is blue says kazuma on seat and has x-press written on rear fender has 2 cylinders and P.O. said was a 250 is really all i know bout the bike
the P.O. had a push button set up to short directly across the solenoid and i wanna get my push button working again before i damage the quad the solenoid has 2 wires coming out of it (yellow and green i think) and the brake light switch is busted apart i found this wiring diagram on another post and it showed one wire going to the start switch and and the other was going to a brake switch so i was wandering if i were to hook the 2 wires coming off the solenoid together to the start switch (in image take the grn/yel) and hook directly to yel/red) if it should work or does the green wire need to be ground?
is blue says kazuma on seat and has x-press written on rear fender has 2 cylinders and P.O. said was a 250 is really all i know bout the bike
the P.O. had a push button set up to short directly across the solenoid and i wanna get my push button working again before i damage the quad the solenoid has 2 wires coming out of it (yellow and green i think) and the brake light switch is busted apart i found this wiring diagram on another post and it showed one wire going to the start switch and and the other was going to a brake switch so i was wandering if i were to hook the 2 wires coming off the solenoid together to the start switch (in image take the grn/yel) and hook directly to yel/red) if it should work or does the green wire need to be ground?
#2
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
You need to apply 12 volts across the two small solenoid wires to cause it to close. One side ties to ground, and one side side ties to battery power. But this is usually done through the fuse, ignition switch, brake switch, and start button (and all associated wiring - including the ground return wires).
Study the two following diagrams (the two most common ways of wirng up the starter activation circuitry) and see if you can trace out the entire wiring path from the positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid actuating coil, and back to the negative battery terminal. Then use a meter to follow that path (ignition on, brakes applied, and start button pushed) and see where the voltage stops along the path.
Your plan of taking the two small wires on the solenoid and shorting them together gaurantees the solenoid cannot ever have 12 volts across those two wires, and so will not work.
Study the two following diagrams (the two most common ways of wirng up the starter activation circuitry) and see if you can trace out the entire wiring path from the positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid actuating coil, and back to the negative battery terminal. Then use a meter to follow that path (ignition on, brakes applied, and start button pushed) and see where the voltage stops along the path.
Your plan of taking the two small wires on the solenoid and shorting them together gaurantees the solenoid cannot ever have 12 volts across those two wires, and so will not work.
#4
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
I'm glad its working, but if I'm understanding you correctly you ran a jumper wire directly from the positive side of the battery into the start circuitry. You absolutely need to have a fuse on any wire coming off the positive battery terminal. Not having a fuse is a fire hazard.
A better alternative is to pick up the 12 volt battery power on the far side (not the battery side) of the existing fuse. Or add another inline fuse on the wire you added (10 amps or so is fine).
Even the little quad batteries can deliver 150 amps into a dead short. Fires can start in seconds. I can weld 1/4" thick steel plates with 150 amps. I would never wire up a quad electrical system without fuse protection - not even temporarily .
If I misunderstood you, and you instead added a ground wire off the *negative* battery terminal then you don't need to worry...
A better alternative is to pick up the 12 volt battery power on the far side (not the battery side) of the existing fuse. Or add another inline fuse on the wire you added (10 amps or so is fine).
Even the little quad batteries can deliver 150 amps into a dead short. Fires can start in seconds. I can weld 1/4" thick steel plates with 150 amps. I would never wire up a quad electrical system without fuse protection - not even temporarily .
If I misunderstood you, and you instead added a ground wire off the *negative* battery terminal then you don't need to worry...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)