a Few problems solved and a few to tackle
#1
a Few problems solved and a few to tackle
after much research, I discovered with the help of many here that I have a 2004 Kazuma 150 cc Dingo with a GY6 engine. I was able to replace the spark plug, filter box, battery, put a winch on and wire it up correctly and get it running somewhat decent.
after all this work, it still runs a little rough. What I mean is that once it is started (sometimes takes a little going when below 32 degrees) it will often die out when I hit the throttle. Once it is warmed up really well (if I run it for about 30-45 minutes) it runs ok, it sometimes will stall out.
I am wondering if I need to clean the carb out really well. I am terrified of this because I have very little experience with small engine repair and I fear I would destroy the carb.
I would think it might be easier to just replace it for $50
If it really is easy to just remove it and clean it without screwing anything up, I would love to do it, I would need step by step instruction. Is there any place I can find step by step directions to do this on my engine?
if there is a link please let me know.
thank you so much to those that have helped me in the past and in the future.
after all this work, it still runs a little rough. What I mean is that once it is started (sometimes takes a little going when below 32 degrees) it will often die out when I hit the throttle. Once it is warmed up really well (if I run it for about 30-45 minutes) it runs ok, it sometimes will stall out.
I am wondering if I need to clean the carb out really well. I am terrified of this because I have very little experience with small engine repair and I fear I would destroy the carb.
I would think it might be easier to just replace it for $50
If it really is easy to just remove it and clean it without screwing anything up, I would love to do it, I would need step by step instruction. Is there any place I can find step by step directions to do this on my engine?
if there is a link please let me know.
thank you so much to those that have helped me in the past and in the future.
#3
granted, the carb in the video may not be identical to your carb, but the procedure is the same. i don't recommend using a drill!
be very careful when pulling the float assembly and needle valve, pay particular attention to how they come apart so as to reverse your actions when installing them(use a Qtip for cleaning out where the needle valve inserts). be careful pulling the jets. they'll take some abuse from the screwdriver, but please don't strip the driving groove. if this video is insufficient, peruse through youtube and you'll find more.
plus, it never hurts to have 2 carbs. one online on the quad and the other one ready to go in your toolbox
how to clean a carb on a ATV - YouTube
be very careful when pulling the float assembly and needle valve, pay particular attention to how they come apart so as to reverse your actions when installing them(use a Qtip for cleaning out where the needle valve inserts). be careful pulling the jets. they'll take some abuse from the screwdriver, but please don't strip the driving groove. if this video is insufficient, peruse through youtube and you'll find more.
plus, it never hurts to have 2 carbs. one online on the quad and the other one ready to go in your toolbox
how to clean a carb on a ATV - YouTube
#4
#5
you can soak the bowl while cleaning the jets and needle seat and seat area. i use Qtips in the needle seat area and other tight fitting areas. i also use an old electric toothbrush (battery powered anyway), that'll help scrub too. with the jets, i use an oxy/acetylene torch tip cleaner pack for the jet orifices. you can use a thin gauge wire, guitar string, wire off of a wire brush, etc.....
use aerosal carb cleaner and compressed air also. make sure you see daylight through the orifices. as you get better, it can take as little as 20 minutes to clean a carb. but please pay very close attention to how everything comes out so you know the positioning of the items upon reinstallation. good luck and let us know!
use aerosal carb cleaner and compressed air also. make sure you see daylight through the orifices. as you get better, it can take as little as 20 minutes to clean a carb. but please pay very close attention to how everything comes out so you know the positioning of the items upon reinstallation. good luck and let us know!
#6
Jaster, you might try adjusting it before tearing it apart. 2manytoys posted a how to sticky on the main part of the Chinese Quads forum as the first thread. I have a very cold blooded Marshin I bought new and that thread was a life saver. I still find I have to "lean it down" some in the summer and richen it a little in the winter. Seems to be no sweet spot. Give it a read. You're only out a few minutes if it don't work. Good luck.
Denny
Denny
#7
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#8
On my Marshin, I have to adjust the air/fuel screw. You're not adjusting jets, you're adjusting a needle screw in the idle circuit which allows more or lesst fuel to get to the idle port. It also allows a little more fuel in the main circuit. Mine cuts out during rapid acceleration if it isn't adjusted for summer or winter as well as rough idle. Have you tried feathering the choke a little when it's cold? If that helps, I'd definitely try to adjust the air/fuel screw first. Hope that made sense and helped.
Denny
Denny
#10
Jaster, you might try adjusting it before tearing it apart. 2manytoys posted a how to sticky on the main part of the Chinese Quads forum as the first thread. I have a very cold blooded Marshin I bought new and that thread was a life saver. I still find I have to "lean it down" some in the summer and richen it a little in the winter. Seems to be no sweet spot. Give it a read. You're only out a few minutes if it don't work. Good luck.
Denny
Denny
but yes you are correct, that thread is great! thanks!