Hi, new to the forums, just picked up some interested toys and need some assistance

I picked up 2 kazuma falcon 110s for $125. One was advertised as parts for the other. I ended up getting the parts one working sort of. After getting it all together It had excellent compression and good spark but the oil dipstick was broken and the one I used (from a different engine) showed no oil when inserted. I added .6 L of oil and hit the starter it rolled over but very sluggish like there was too much resistance.

I drained the oil - there was way too much oil.. i refilled to proper amount but now there is some much resistance inside the engine that the starter is really struggling. Enough that the wiring is getting hot and smoking. I opened the top valve cover to relieve pressure assuming oil got where it wasn't supposed and was building pressure, but it is still very difficult for the engine to turn over.

I was able to get the engine to fire using starter fluid straight in the intake for trial (the first pops sound like gun shots and spark plug is charred black- but it did run fine) but it really struggles to turn over and the wires get very hot

Unfortunately this was the first go at the engine so I really don't know if it was a result of the overfill or just something else in the engine. The engine looks like it may have been rebuilt.

What should I look at for relieving the pressure. Or anything else ?

Thanks

 

First, are you sure you have a sound and fully charged battery, as the most common cause of a sluggish starter is a flat or dud battery. If you think the engine is "tight" take the cover off the flywheel, take the plug out and check if it is tight to turn by hand. If it is, then there is a problem and only a strip down will find out what. Although overfilling a horizontal engine with oil could cause a hydraulic lock between piston and head, the problem won't be that now, so I doubt if overfilling has anything to do with the sluggish starting.

 

Hi Merryman, thanks for the reply.
Battery was good, and I had a booster pack attached anyway. I had pulled the cover and was turning by hand trying to find the mark to adjust the valves - but turns out there are multiple markings on the clutch none were a T, plus I didnt have a feeler gauge that small to adjust the valves. In the process I was able to turn the engine - spark plug removed, but it would get a littler stiffer at one point and then release (like roll over) once I passed a certain point. With the spark plug removed should I not feel any resistance in the engine, or does it still get tighter at a different point in the cycle ?

Thanks

 

The cam has to push the valves open against spring pressure, could be what you are feeling as you turn the engine. T mark is on flywheel, not clutch side of engine, you have removed the wrong cover.

 

Yeah sorry, I meant the flywheel - not clutch. There are a bunch of things that look like upside down lolly pops spaced out along the flywheel - but no T.

Anyways, I let it sit for a day and went back to turn it over last night - the initial turnover is stiff but after that it seems to turn over better now. We are putting that carb back on tonight and will try to fire it up. But I still need to figure out TDC so I can confirm valve adjustment.

 

Hondas have a hole in the flywheel cover with a blanking screw in it. Turn flywheel until line with T against it is in the middle of the hole. I have a feeling this is when the keyway is pointing to the top if you have the cover off, but too long since I did one to be certain. Don't forget you need TDC on compression stroke for valve adjustment. May be easier on those engines to remove cam sprocket cover and line its timing mark up.