07 panther 110cc wiring woe's
#11
09-20-2012, 10:25 AM
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the starter solenoid wires harness side are red/yellow and black.
dont have a meter that works but will pick one up today
yes the two oranges wires are spliced together before they go into the switch harness
the two pin connector from the head light switch wires are red/yellow and green/yellow. the red/yellow is spliced one end going to the starter solenoid, the other to a harness that plugs into a black box under the seat.
the green/yellow is also spliced, one end connects to the brake switch wires, and the other runs to the rear brake light harness end.
got the switch harness from motopartsmax.com it is not on the atv currently.
dont have a meter that works but will pick one up today
yes the two oranges wires are spliced together before they go into the switch harness
the two pin connector from the head light switch wires are red/yellow and green/yellow. the red/yellow is spliced one end going to the starter solenoid, the other to a harness that plugs into a black box under the seat.
the green/yellow is also spliced, one end connects to the brake switch wires, and the other runs to the rear brake light harness end.
got the switch harness from motopartsmax.com it is not on the atv currently.
#12
09-21-2012, 12:59 AM
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Well picked up the meter, there was no continuity from the black Cdi wire to the other end of the harness. I reconnected all the black wire back together as a few were loose, and now the meter is reading. I also checked the wires to in the kill switch harness and they are readin also, as is the headlight switch. Tossed it on the battery charger and will start up tomorrow and see what happens
#13
09-21-2012, 01:55 PM
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Is it possible the previous owner could have pulled out wires and placed them back wron in the connector?
I'm going wire by wire checking continuity and a gray wire on the kill switch run to the main harness then turns into black wire that feeds into the headlight harness to both headlight bulbs.
Then I have a black wire on the light switch that runs to the main harness and turns into yellow wire which is spliced one side going into stator the other to the Cdi box? Could these be switched at the switch side of the harness?
I'm going wire by wire checking continuity and a gray wire on the kill switch run to the main harness then turns into black wire that feeds into the headlight harness to both headlight bulbs.
Then I have a black wire on the light switch that runs to the main harness and turns into yellow wire which is spliced one side going into stator the other to the Cdi box? Could these be switched at the switch side of the harness?
#14
09-21-2012, 02:52 PM
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#15
09-21-2012, 11:59 PM
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My comments in blue:
Here is the typical remote control wiring: The colors vary, but the scheme is pretty universal:
The remote is drawn "fully functioned", with all of the possible features drawn in. Many (maybe most) quads have only a subset of features in the remote, so many of the wires in the 9 pin remote connector may be missing (such as alarm, flashing turn signals, etc.).
the starter solenoid wires harness side are red/yellow and black.
[Black is ground, and the red/yel should go to the start button (on the left hadlebar switch) and to the remote control module]
dont have a meter that works but will pick one up today
yes the two oranges wires are spliced together before they go into the switch harness
the two pin connector from the head light switch wires are red/yellow [yes this is right] and green/yellow. the red/yellow is spliced one end going to the starter solenoid, the other to a harness that plugs into a black box under the seat [the remote control module].
the green/yellow is also spliced, one end connects to the brake switch wires, and the other runs to the rear brake light harness end. [this sounds right too.]
got the switch harness from motopartsmax.com it is not on the atv currently.
[Black is ground, and the red/yel should go to the start button (on the left hadlebar switch) and to the remote control module]
dont have a meter that works but will pick one up today
yes the two oranges wires are spliced together before they go into the switch harness
the two pin connector from the head light switch wires are red/yellow [yes this is right] and green/yellow. the red/yellow is spliced one end going to the starter solenoid, the other to a harness that plugs into a black box under the seat [the remote control module].
the green/yellow is also spliced, one end connects to the brake switch wires, and the other runs to the rear brake light harness end. [this sounds right too.]
got the switch harness from motopartsmax.com it is not on the atv currently.
The remote is drawn "fully functioned", with all of the possible features drawn in. Many (maybe most) quads have only a subset of features in the remote, so many of the wires in the 9 pin remote connector may be missing (such as alarm, flashing turn signals, etc.).
#16
09-22-2012, 12:18 AM
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Now for the headlights. The first thing to figure out is whether your lights are AC powered or DC powered. DC powered lights are powered from the battery, and work with the engine stopped and the ignition switch (and headlight switch) turned on. AC powered lights work only when the engine is running (and headlight switch turned on) since the power is coming straight off the stator. In addition, AC powered lights tend to dim a lot at idle, then brighten up as you increase the engine speed.
All of the above may be totally moot at the moment because your lights don't work at all, but was there ever a time when you saw the quad with working lights? Do you recall if the lights were AC powered or DC powered based on the above difference in operation? You may have already stated this. If so I apologize. Rereading the posts tonight make my eyes glaze over. It's been a really busy work week for me....
There is a yellow wire at your headlight connector (wiring harness side of course). If you look at your stator wires coming of of the engine side cover, and follow then over to the wiring harness side of the connector(s), do you see a yellow wire? If so, measure the continuity (zero ohms resistance) from that yellow wire at the stator to the yellow wire on the handlebar switch connector. Are they same wire? I so then your lights are AC powered.
#17
09-23-2012, 11:16 AM
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there is a yellow wire from the stator, it is spliced, half goes to cdi box, the other the the left side harness. it was connected to a black wire that ran to the headlight switch. there is a gray wire on the kill switch that ran to a black wire on the harness that feeds the lights. what i did was switch the yellow and black on the harness side and the kill switch now works. it didnt make sense to me that a wire from the kill switch would run to the headlights... is that wrong?
there is a yellow wire on the kill switch, it runs to the harness, turns black/white and is spliced 3 ways 1. cdi 2. remote box, 3. rear kill cord.
i will explain what wires are on the light switch what they turn into and where they go, maybe it will help.
on the light switch the wires are like this brown/white green
red black
when looking at the switch.
br/w feeds into an empty slot on the main harness
green feeds into a blue which go to headlight harness, turns brown and goes into the
headlight
red feeds into harness turns orange, orange is spliced and feeds into headlight
1. changes into green/yellow and goes to the main bulb
2. orange and runs to small yellow bulb off to the side of main bulb
black stays black at harness and runs to headlight harness when it goes to green and runs to the headlight bulb.
i'm getting continuity between all the above connections, so i dont know what the heck is going on. even when the atv is running there is no lights.
there is a yellow wire on the kill switch, it runs to the harness, turns black/white and is spliced 3 ways 1. cdi 2. remote box, 3. rear kill cord.
i will explain what wires are on the light switch what they turn into and where they go, maybe it will help.
on the light switch the wires are like this brown/white green
red black
when looking at the switch.
br/w feeds into an empty slot on the main harness
green feeds into a blue which go to headlight harness, turns brown and goes into the
headlight
red feeds into harness turns orange, orange is spliced and feeds into headlight
1. changes into green/yellow and goes to the main bulb
2. orange and runs to small yellow bulb off to the side of main bulb
black stays black at harness and runs to headlight harness when it goes to green and runs to the headlight bulb.
i'm getting continuity between all the above connections, so i dont know what the heck is going on. even when the atv is running there is no lights.
#18
09-23-2012, 10:29 PM
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My comments in blue:
In all of the above wire routing you didn't mention where the yellow wire from the stator goes now that you have changed it. Where does this wire go? If I'm right in my suspicions, I think it should go to the headlight switch, and the voltage regulator, and no where else.
If I'm right, your lights are AC powered directly off the stator (via the yellow wire). And I suspect that this yell wire should go to the Brn/wht wire on the headlight switch. Let's verify this:
1) Unplug the headlight switch. Use your meter to measure continuity between the following wires looking into the headlight switch (and using the colors on the switch itself):
2) Headlight switch off, verify that there is no continuity between the brn/wht and any other wire (grn, red, blk)
3) Turn on the headlights, and verify that there is continuity between the brn/wht and the red wire, and no continuity between brn/wht and grn and/or blk wires.
4) Turn on the bright headlights and verify continuity between the brn/wht wire and:
a) Grn wire
b) Red wire
and no continuity to the blk wire
A different subject: You reversed two wires Yellow and Gray (or black) and the kill switch started working. I've already asked you you tell me where the yellow wire from the stator goes now that you rerouted it. After thinking about it, I'm not sure the kill switch was rerouted correctly either. It is possible that the kill switch now gets switched to ground (via the kill switch) through the headlight bulb filament (or something equally bizarre). That will work until the headlight wiring gets fixed, and then the kill switch issues will rear it's head again. So please follow the gray kill switch wire that you rerouted, and tell me exactly where it goes...
We'll get to the bottom of this...
there is a yellow wire from the stator, it is spliced, half goes to cdi box, the other the the left side harness. it was connected to a black wire that ran to the headlight switch. there is a gray wire on the kill switch that ran to a black wire on the harness that feeds the lights. what i did was switch the yellow and black on the harness side and the kill switch now works. it didnt make sense to me that a wire from the kill switch would run to the headlights... is that wrong? [Yes, the kill switch has no business running to the headlight switch, and the yellow wire from the stator has no business running to the CDI. But I have to wonder where your reversed these wires, and whether you did it wrong - substituting one wiring error for another.]
there is a yellow wire on the kill switch, it runs to the harness, turns black/white and is spliced 3 ways 1. cdi 2. remote box, 3. rear kill cord. [This sound correct.]
i will explain what wires are on the light switch what they turn into and where they go, maybe it will help.
on the light switch the wires are like this brown/white, green,
red, and black when looking at the switch.
br/w feeds into an empty slot on the main harness [I think this is the power input that feeds the headlights through the headlight switch. More on the at the end of this post...]
green feeds into a blue which go to headlight harness, turns brown and goes into the headlight [I think this is the wire that feeds the high beam headlight side]
red feeds into harness turns orange, orange is spliced and feeds into headlight
1. changes into green/yellow and goes to the main bulb
2. orange and runs to small yellow bulb off to the side of main bulb
[I think this is the low beam headlight side (and running lights).]
black stays black at harness and runs to headlight harness when it goes to green and runs to the headlight bulb. [I think this is just ground. Use your meter and measure continuity to engine/frame ground, and to the negative battery terminal. Do you measure continuity to ground? If so I would bet that all your main wiring harenss black wires are ground.]
i'm getting continuity between all the above connections, so i dont know what the heck is going on. even when the atv is running there is no lights.
there is a yellow wire on the kill switch, it runs to the harness, turns black/white and is spliced 3 ways 1. cdi 2. remote box, 3. rear kill cord. [This sound correct.]
i will explain what wires are on the light switch what they turn into and where they go, maybe it will help.
on the light switch the wires are like this brown/white, green,
red, and black when looking at the switch.
br/w feeds into an empty slot on the main harness [I think this is the power input that feeds the headlights through the headlight switch. More on the at the end of this post...]
green feeds into a blue which go to headlight harness, turns brown and goes into the headlight [I think this is the wire that feeds the high beam headlight side]
red feeds into harness turns orange, orange is spliced and feeds into headlight
1. changes into green/yellow and goes to the main bulb
2. orange and runs to small yellow bulb off to the side of main bulb
[I think this is the low beam headlight side (and running lights).]
black stays black at harness and runs to headlight harness when it goes to green and runs to the headlight bulb. [I think this is just ground. Use your meter and measure continuity to engine/frame ground, and to the negative battery terminal. Do you measure continuity to ground? If so I would bet that all your main wiring harenss black wires are ground.]
i'm getting continuity between all the above connections, so i dont know what the heck is going on. even when the atv is running there is no lights.
If I'm right, your lights are AC powered directly off the stator (via the yellow wire). And I suspect that this yell wire should go to the Brn/wht wire on the headlight switch. Let's verify this:
1) Unplug the headlight switch. Use your meter to measure continuity between the following wires looking into the headlight switch (and using the colors on the switch itself):
2) Headlight switch off, verify that there is no continuity between the brn/wht and any other wire (grn, red, blk)
3) Turn on the headlights, and verify that there is continuity between the brn/wht and the red wire, and no continuity between brn/wht and grn and/or blk wires.
4) Turn on the bright headlights and verify continuity between the brn/wht wire and:
a) Grn wire
b) Red wire
and no continuity to the blk wire
A different subject: You reversed two wires Yellow and Gray (or black) and the kill switch started working. I've already asked you you tell me where the yellow wire from the stator goes now that you rerouted it. After thinking about it, I'm not sure the kill switch was rerouted correctly either. It is possible that the kill switch now gets switched to ground (via the kill switch) through the headlight bulb filament (or something equally bizarre). That will work until the headlight wiring gets fixed, and then the kill switch issues will rear it's head again. So please follow the gray kill switch wire that you rerouted, and tell me exactly where it goes...
We'll get to the bottom of this...
#19
09-24-2012, 01:05 PM
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The yellow wire runs from the stator and gets split. It didn't go to the Cdi box that as an error on my part, looks like it goes to some type of regulator or something, the other half ran to the left side harness switch. It connected to a black wire on the light switch.
What I did was switch the yellow from that black to the gray wire on the kill switch and that made the kill switch work. But from what you are sayin that is wrong. So I switched them back and now the kill switch wont work unless I turn the headlights on again.
I checked continuity with the headlight switch , with switch off I am getting continuity between the br/w and red.
Switch on continuity between br/w and red and br/w and black
Brights on. Continuity between br/w and green
No continuity between br/w and red
Continuity between br/w and black
That gray wire on the kill switch, could that be a ground wire as it runs to the head light harness turns black then green and looks like it is grounded at the top of the bulb connector
I put the yellow and black wires where they were originally and the kill switch is back to not working correctly.
At one poin when I flipped the kill switch wih the headlights on they turned of for a quick second then he engine died.
What I did was switch the yellow from that black to the gray wire on the kill switch and that made the kill switch work. But from what you are sayin that is wrong. So I switched them back and now the kill switch wont work unless I turn the headlights on again.
I checked continuity with the headlight switch , with switch off I am getting continuity between the br/w and red.
Switch on continuity between br/w and red and br/w and black
Brights on. Continuity between br/w and green
No continuity between br/w and red
Continuity between br/w and black
That gray wire on the kill switch, could that be a ground wire as it runs to the head light harness turns black then green and looks like it is grounded at the top of the bulb connector
I put the yellow and black wires where they were originally and the kill switch is back to not working correctly.
At one poin when I flipped the kill switch wih the headlights on they turned of for a quick second then he engine died.
#20
09-25-2012, 12:14 AM
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I started to reply to this tonight, but as I was composing the post, my ideas that felt so promising earlier fell apart as I was writing. The puzzle pieces don't fit together yet. I need to think a little more on this.
I will respond within a day or so. I'll most likely have some more questions...
I will respond within a day or so. I'll most likely have some more questions...
