Good afternoon,

I'm no service genius so if I sound a bit lost in description it's because I am.

I'm not sure if anyone else has had this issue but it appears that the rubber cover (boot of sorts) that covers the rear drive train has been torn and looks almost melted.

I can now see the shaft and is exposed to the elements. I didn't ride this weekend but wonder how this should be repaired. I remember when I bought it I wondered if this was ever going to happen...well, here I am.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Ian

 

Are you talking about the rubber cover that is on the shaft between the engine and the rear diff? I believe it is called the rear spline shaft boot or something like that. It is about $15 with the clamps and is fairly simple to replace.

If it is the boot on either rear axle out next to the wheel or in next to the diff those are called CV boots. They are fairly tough but when they do tear they can get wrapped up in the spines they protect and may look like they are melted when they are just twisted really bad. CV boots are about $40 and you may need extra clamps depending on if its an inside or out side boot.

In my opinion both are easy fixes jsut getting the parts takes most of the time.

I have torn nearly all my CV boots at the same time! Stinkin tall grass gets wrapped around it and twists the boot into the CV and it just eats it up. Took me about 30min per boot to change out but I also discovered wheel bearing issues while working on the CV boots.

Hope this helps.

SJ

 

Thanks very much for the help!

It is between the engine and the rear diff... that's it exactly.

To replace it do I need to disconnect the rear diff or does it somehow just clamp on? It lloks like it need to slide over the rear diff and clamp at the top and bottom.

Is this a part I would order from the dealer or is there an after market I could pick up?

Sorry about all the questions but clearly you know what you're talking about...

Thanks again.

Ian

 

Don't worry about all the questions. Asking, doing or watching some else its about the only way to learn this stuff. I have had to remove that shaft before when I was removing my engine. So I too have had to ask and then do. Here is what I did:

1) remove the side panels, seat and air box of the ATV.

This gives you more room to move a wrench around. Some may not remove the air box but I personally found it easier to get that shaft out by removing it.

2) Remove the 4 bolts that connect the shaft to the engine side output flange and then the 3 bolts that connect it to the rear diff flange.

3) Once the bolts are out the shaft should remove easily.

Shaft is now removed from the machine.

4) Snip the front and rear bands that secure the boot to the shaft.

5) The boot and shaft should now slide apart.

6) CLEAN it all up. I use diesel fuel as a degreaser/cleaner and wipe it down.

7) Put it back together in reverse order.

Only trick is that the bands probably cannot be reused. To install new ones requires a special "band" tool. If you do not want to buy one take it to the dealer or small engine shop and they may do it for you. But you will need that banding tool later if you ever tear a CV boot.

I would remove the part and then take it to the dealer to get the parts or to order new ones. My dealer here takes 7-10 days for parts orders.

On a side note Gorilla tape (a type of duct tape) can be used as a temporary patch for CV boots. I used it before to keep gunk out of a torn CV while I roe it the rest of hunting season and to get it out of the field. Just wipe grease off outside as best you can and tape it up. This may keep you riding until your parts show up as long as its not a 500 mile cross country trek.

Also, you can view a parts diagram at several online places. I like brownsleisureworld.com as they have a online parts microfiche that is very good.

Swampy

 

Thanks very much for the help... I will let you know how I make out.

 

Hi, finally got the part... the dealer ordered the wrong part 3 times. It was 93.00/ including the two clamps. They tell me I don't need a tool to put the claps back on.. time will tell.

The part had to come directly from the dealer... if it could have been ordered OEM I'm told it would have been in the 15.00 range.

One last question: when I put it back together do I grease it? It sure looks like there was grease of some sort there before??

Also, thanks for the note re the gorilla tape... been riding ever since.

Thanks again,

Ian

 

Good to hear you finally got the right part. I forgot to mention before that if you need CV boots and Axles to check out the website "thecvman.com" he might of also had the shaft and boot parts you needed but I did not see them listed.

I know the CV joints have a molly-grease (mollybednium type grease) but they are a different critter than the shaft you are replacing. So a good high temp wheel bearing grease would probably work well. I also do not see a specific type of grease listed in the service manual for that part.

I would grease the parts well, slide the boot on, slip the two parts together, then grease liberally again, then put your clamps on to hold to boot in place. You will probably need a boot clamp tool if you do not have one to install the clamps.

Just remember to clean up all or as much of the old grease as possible because if you replace the grease with a type that is not compatible with the old grease then the grease usually turn to a mushy brown substance and does not lubrucate very well at all. I usually use a little diesel or kerosene as a solvent instead of gasoline.

Good luck and happy riding.

SJ

 

Happy New Year....

If your ever to Nova Scotia Canada ... O owe you a beer or two.

So, I was doing OK, following your directions. Removed the 4 bolts by the engine, then went to take the 3 bolts off next to the rear differential ... there are not three, there are 4, and they are torx bolts???

I stopped as I couldn't find the 3 bolts you were referencing.

Are these 4 torx bolts the ones that need to be removed? If so, once they are removed will the rear diff fluid drain out?

I think this is the last question as I have it apart except for the 4 (??) torx.

Thanks again.

 

If you go to the website brownsleisureworld.com and look at their online parts microfiche for your machine you can see the propeller shaft you are removing and how it is assembled. Look at the Rear drive case assembly. You are replacing what it calls the drive coupler (I know it as the propeller shaft) part #35 which contains part# 36-41. When looking at the picture you can see the flange on the engine side has 4 bolts and the flange on the differential has 3 bolts.

The 4 Torx bolts are part of the pinion housing and should not need to be removed. You are correct in that if you remove the 4 torx bolts the differential fluid will drain out.

I tried to put the pictures on here but was unable to so sorry for that.

Also, I use to have the dealer print out these pages and it helped a bunch with assembly, especially if it was not my machine I was working on and I did not have a manual. Most dealers will do this if you ask.

Swampy

 

Thats a great website...now I see the problem.. you are looking at a different model...

FIS?? I'm not sure what that stands for but mine is manual transmission:

2003 Arctic Cat 2003 ATV 400 4x4 Manual Transmission ATV REAR DRIVE GEARCASE ASSEMBLY

I see the boot listed on the secondary drive assembly part #33 with clamps #32 and #34...but can't figure out based on these diagrams how it comes off... perhaps I should just take this to the dealer to be repaired?

Thanks