neutral light wont come in my '01 250 2X4
#1
neutral light wont come in my '01 250 2X4
so i put the wheeler in neutral and the green light wont come on and it wont start. i turn the key on and the lights work, and i have power to the ignition, but no green light and no electric start, i can start it with the recoil, and it turns off with the key. i have no idea if theres like a neutral switch or relay somewhere or what.
#2
Testing Neutral Start Relay
There is a neutral start relay. First thing would be to push forward on the reverse lever. If the spring on the lever is weak or debris is interfering it can't engage the switch. There is a jumper on a RED/BLK coming from the gear position switch on the side of the motor. It goes into a RED/YEL jumper with a bullet connector that goes to the reverse switch.
Neutral Start
Relay
The connector is the white 4-prong one near the battery.
VOLTAGE (Connector)
NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON
position.
1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire; then
connect the black tester lead to ground.
3. The meter must show battery voltage.
NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,
inspect the fuses, wiring harness, connectors, or
ignition switch.
NOTE: In the following test, the ignition switch
must be in the ON position and the emergency stop
switch must be in the RUN position.
4. With the black tester lead still connected to ground,
connect the red tester lead to the yellow/green wire.
5. Depress the starter button. The meter must show
battery voltage.
NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,
inspect fuses, wiring harness, connectors, and
switches.
RESISTANCE (Relay - Copper
Terminals)
Always disconnect the battery when performing
resistance tests to avoid damaging the
multimeter.
NOTE: An external 12-volt power supply “jumper”
(positive and negative connections) must be used
for this test. Also, it is very important that the meter
leads and power supply connections are made to
the appropriate terminals of the relay or damage to
the multimeter will result.
1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
2. Connect the power supply (positive) to one brass
terminal; connect the power supply (negative) to the
other brass terminal. There should be an audible
“click” from the relay.
Fig. 5-58
ATV-1075
NOTE: If there was no audible “click” from the
relay, it must be replaced. If there was a “click,”
continue to test resistance.
3. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
4. With the power supply still connected, connect the
red tester lead to one copper terminal; then connect
the black tester lead to the other copper terminal.
5. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.
NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm (even
though the “click” was heard in the power supply
test), the relay must be replaced.
RESISTANCE (Relay - Brass Terminals)
Always disconnect the battery when performing
resistance tests to avoid damaging the
multimeter.
NOTE: The external power supply will not be used
for this test.
1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to one brass terminal;
then connect the black tester lead to the other brass
terminal.
3. The meter must show 90 ohms ± 20%.
NOTE: If the meter shows no resistance, replace
the relay.
#3
If your ATV has the start in gear feature try pulling the hand brake and see if the electric starter works.
The starter selenoid should be found under the right rear tire (sitting onthe machine). Follow the red wire from the battery. THre is a plastic cover ontop that has a 30amp fuse that may have blown. THis fuse is separate fromthe fuse panel.
If it is blown and keeps going out you have a short in the electrical system between the relay and the ignition.
If it looks good, clean the connections and check the nuetral relay as described above.
You can arc across the terminals of the starter relay with a rubber handled screw driver and see if the starter spins. If the starter spins and the fuse is not blown the relay (starter selenoid) is bad.
Swampy
The starter selenoid should be found under the right rear tire (sitting onthe machine). Follow the red wire from the battery. THre is a plastic cover ontop that has a 30amp fuse that may have blown. THis fuse is separate fromthe fuse panel.
If it is blown and keeps going out you have a short in the electrical system between the relay and the ignition.
If it looks good, clean the connections and check the nuetral relay as described above.
You can arc across the terminals of the starter relay with a rubber handled screw driver and see if the starter spins. If the starter spins and the fuse is not blown the relay (starter selenoid) is bad.
Swampy
#5
Am I ever glad I found this thread. Have the same problem and now have good directions to follow. Mine is a 99. I used dilectric grease on everything. i still haven't found the 30 amp fuse location.
will be back working on it Wednesday morning. It will start with pull cord . Ken Thanks to all
will be back working on it Wednesday morning. It will start with pull cord . Ken Thanks to all
#6
Well now I can start it in gear; the relay was bad so we eliminated it and jumpered the white 4 prong connecter. green wire and yellow striped wire. Still no neutral light but I can do without it. Will try and remember when I kill engine to have it in neutral. When using choke it could take off on you when left in gear. Ken
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