Had another "big" friend pull it through while I watched the gears...no movement. But, I think they should not move when pull started, but rather freewheel. Since there is no solenoid to kick out a Bendix drive gear, the motor stays engaged all the time. It must disengage somehow or it would wind up with the engine. I'll get to the shop manual next.

Were you able to see the pics I posted in my garage?

Greg

 

Thats right; I forget exactly how they are setup now, but you are right, it only catches in the direction that the starter spins.

Yes, I made a post about the pics. Last one on the first page. haha. But yes I definately think you made a great trade, especially considering what you had in the 454!

 

Busy morning, but making progress! Little things..replace one high beam bulb. Found the foot brake line disconnected from the rear caliper! The hand brake is doing all the work...I need to get into that later. Took the left side cover off and inspected the starter clutch and gears....all ok!!! One way bearing doing it's job! Reassembled and the starter won't turn. Disassembled part two...ahh haa! Had two thrust washers on the starter idler gear. Actually, none were supposed to go there. Both washers go on the shift shaft. What was happening was when the case was tightened up, it would lock up the starter idler gear. So, now the starter works great! Just won't start

Fires in the intake stroke intermittently. Back fires through the carb. I have not been into the carb yet. I see timing could cause this, but it's not adjustable. Could this previous novice owner have tried to adjust the valves...I think not. Possible CDI box issue. I noticed he tied the winch switch lead to the positive post of the starter relay, but that should make no difference. I hav'nt tested the compression yet, but it takes three men and a me to use the pull cord so I doubt that is the issue. Maybe CDI box. No real way to test them so I think I may order one. What do you think?

Greg

 

I would check timing and the valves before buying any parts, just to be on the safe side. It does sound like the ignition timing or cam timing is off. Check the tension on the timing chain and make sure it isn't real loose to the point it could have skipped a tooth. It does sound like it could be the CDI box but I'd go over the free things first. Haha

 

I agree totally! I had a suggestion from a local friend to go through carb so I did. Clean as new on the inside, but disassembled anyway and blew out with compressed air all ports. No change. While cranking, it did run on it's own for about four to five seconds at idle with no backfires, but then went back to it's crank-crank-crank-cough routine. I'm thinking it might be sparkplug!
I'm going there next, then check the timing static as it won't run. With high compression, I doubt timing or cam is the issue, but will check anyway. What else can a guy do on his first day of vacation...raining outside, and I already did the dishes and laundry....

Greg

 

Another thought...there are two diodes in the fuse box. One is for fan and I think the other one protects the CDI. I tested both and they both fail the diode test, but when powered, they both flow current only one way. Now that it cranks with the starter, I think I will pull the sparkplug and watch it while cranking...if intermittant, then possible coil, plug, or cdi.

Greg

 

This new to me! Constant spark! Instead of a pulse-pulse type of spark, I have what reminds me of a Tesla Coil...constant ring of fire which explains why it fires on the intake stroke sometimes. Bright bluish spark dancing around the electrode with a few fractions of a second pause. The coil is obviously ok, so what triggers the coil...the CDI. CDI controls when to fire the coil so has control over timing of spark. I think I will go over the wires to the CDI to see if I have any shorts or bad wires. Maybe unplug and replug the CDI a couple of times. Anyone have a good test CDI available to try?

Greg

 

Well after visiting YouTube I'm somewhat satisfied that my CDI is actually ok. Several videos show the same semi-continuous spark like I'm getting. I went through the timing and valve specs. Top dead center of the compression stroke and removed the timing plug to see where the line was...dead center.
Then pulled the tank and the valve covers to check cam position. Exhaust valves are free and at .007 gap. Intake valves are free and at .002 gap. So I'm sure the timing and or valves are not the problem. I cranked it over and watched the valves work normally. So I'm not too sure where to go next. Any suggestions?

Greg

 

So you are getting the correct spark, and you have compression and the carb is clean. I would double check that the fuel line coming to the carb has good flow and that the petcock isnt dirty or gummed up. It really sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. Might try shooting it with a little starting fluid to see how it reacts. If it fires right off on starting fluid (or carb cleaner) and dies when that's gone, then you have a fuel delivery issue somewhere.

 

Perhaps. I've been hesitant to do the starting fluid or carb cleaner shot down the throat due to the intermittent backfire which could be spectacular!
While the tank was off I verified good flow of fuel in the reserve and run position. I did find the carb bowl vent line was pinched under the tank so that may have caused fuel starvation. Was getting late and I've been at it all day...my mind is wasted. Tomorrow is another day. It's got to be something simple..."when all else fails, the simplest is the most likely cause".

Thanks for staying with me on this Cummins Driver!

Greg