2003 Polaris sportsman 500 no power to ignition
#1
2003 Polaris sportsman 500 no power to ignition
Recently replaced the starter, bendix, and solenoid and the machine was running fine. The. Suddenly it began cranking infinitely. Would start fine but continue to crank when started and even with key off. Had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I assumed the solenoid had stuck. So I changed the solenoid again and now I have nothing. No lights, no crank, nothing. If I cross the solenoid with a screw driver it will crank and the pod lights come on. I have disconnected the key switch and using a multimeter I am not getting any power to the switch. Any thoughts?
#2
Make sure the solenoid mounting bolts have a good ground to the battery box. Also check that you have voltage from the 20 amp circuit breaker that supplies power to the ignition switch,left control switch,etc. If it has power on the battery side of the sealed pouch,but not on the other side,slice the pouch open and check the breaker for corrosion.They're designed to trip and reset,but are prone to burnout and even though sealed,moisture can corrode the terminals. If you have power through the breaker,slide the emergency on/off switch back and fort and check connections. It too can cut power from the ignition switch and lights.Item #2 in the parts break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
#3
Thanks for the reply OPT
The solenoid is mounted to the side of the battery box with 2 bolts (as it was fro the factory). I don't seem to have any power at either end of the circuit breakers. The only place I have found power is a full 12V at the battery, 12V at the solenoid (battery side), and 12V at the winch junction box.
Make sure the solenoid mounting bolts have a good ground to the battery box. Also check that you have voltage from the 20 amp circuit breaker that supplies power to the ignition switch,left control switch,etc. If it has power on the battery side of the sealed pouch,but not on the other side,slice the pouch open and check the breaker for corrosion.They're designed to trip and reset,but are prone to burnout and even though sealed,moisture can corrode the terminals. If you have power through the breaker,slide the emergency on/off switch back and fort and check connections. It too can cut power from the ignition switch and lights.Item #2 in the parts break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
#4
Doesn't happen often but if power isn't reaching the circuit breaker you probably shorted out the fusible link. Ties into the battery positive cable and harness.Past the link it supplies power to the circuit breaker and rest of the system.Item #27 on the breakdown.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Ohm out this wire and if shorted,several places to get this link from ebay,plus you might check around on better prices on this link with 20 gauge wire.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Kit-Fusible-Link-2202147-2461085-/271974246345?hash=item3f52eda7c9&vxp=mtr Possible a local auto supply can help on this.
Ohm out this wire and if shorted,several places to get this link from ebay,plus you might check around on better prices on this link with 20 gauge wire.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Kit-Fusible-Link-2202147-2461085-/271974246345?hash=item3f52eda7c9&vxp=mtr Possible a local auto supply can help on this.
#5
Up and running
Thanks for your help OPT. The problem was the fusible link, however it is not shorted. I had it hooked up to the starter side of the solenoid rather than the battery side. Further more the ignition switch was shot leading to my original problem of the continuous cranking. Thanks again
#6
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