Good news, and bad news. Good news is we found the problem. Bad news is it was the rings, and the piston. The top ring came out in about 30 pieces. The second ring came out in 4 pieces. So we ordered a new piston $170.00, new set of rings $30.00 and a new piston pin for $20.00. The cylinder checked out well within the specs, as the shop manual states. Had local shop run a hone on it to rough up the cylinder wall. and now we are just waiting on parts. The local shop also looked at the valves and said everything looked good there. My only worry is the new piston is 11.5 to 1 compression and am hopping there will be enough clearance for new piston. I wander if my 4 wheeler shop knows what they are talking about or not. I guess I will see in a couple of days. Thanks again to every one who posted suggestions they helped alot.

 

The 11.5-1 piston will clear if it really is a high comp. piston you will notice a great power gain. What kind of piston is it? Who is it from? Did they tell you that.

 

Glad to hear you found the problem.. It could have been worse... The ring could have came out in 31 pieces... :-)

At least the cylinder is ok.

 

My nearest shop is salina powersports, in salina KS. They said that they could only get 2 pistons for the bike. The factory one was going to cost around 280.00 or the JE piston which was about half price, 170.00

 

You'll like the JE, I've been running it for over a year and a half and many hours and it works great!

 

We installed the JE piston, set the timing marks, turned it over several times, rest the timing marks. Cleaned the carb, again, the darn thing still doesn't start up right. If you crank on it for a while it does start. But not like it should. Like I said we checked the timing marks several different times, and they line up like the book shows. What I don't understand is the thing runs great when it finally does start. My 04 ds 650 starts right up like a champ. The 05 ds 650 is giving me gray hairs. The shop said they checked the valves, and where seating good. We checked the gap between the cam and the valves, or what ever you call the cups on top of the valve, the where with in tolerence as the book said. Part of me thinks it's the carb. When you get it running and warmed up, you cannot tell much of a difference when adjusting the idle screw. You can run it darn near out, I mean it just about falls out, before you get any difference. You can also turn it all the way in, before the idle changes. So where are we going wrong. I no longer own the 04 so I cannot try the other carb.

 

either your valves , (more than likly one intake) leaks a little or maybe your float needs adjusted. does it idle once started? when i had a leaking intake valve . (after a mechanic told me it was fine) it was hard to start until warmed up . and the idle screw didnt seem to do much either. if the carb doesn't fix the prob, pull the head and pour liquid into the intake
track holding it upright . check to see if any liquid leaks to the piston side. any sign of leaking . have a competent machanic do a valve job or lap the valve. you can't tell by looking. and once your mech found the ring prob. he assumed that was it. a peice of ring could have scared the seat slightly. don't get me wrong it could be the carb, set the float with a gage not your eye. hopefuly it is the carb, but it sounds like a valve.

 

Did you do a compression test after you put it together & ran it a little bit?

 

I haven't done a compression test, I admit I should have. We turned the head upside down and sprayed with brake cleaner untill the all 4 valves were covered. let it sit for a little bit and didn't find any liquid behind the valves. I rechecked the clearence between the cam and the valve cups, (or what ever the technical name is) and found that the intake valves were in fact tighter than the the books specs. So tight that we could just barely fit the smallest feeler gauge under them, I think it was a .001 cannot remember for sure. So my new question is can we change the shims on top of the valve cups, or do I order a set of valves, and find a machine shop to regrind the valves and head? Also I am running a pro com cdi, I belive it is supposed to advance your timing a little, may be wrong about that, but I thought I had read that in the ad. Do I need to advance the timing on the bottom end of the cam chain, or should it be all right where it's set from the factory, seeing that I am running a 11.5 to 1 piston? On an intirely different note when it's running the time and money was well worth it, that thing runs fantastic.

 

Ok, you are gapped way too tight. Yes, you can just change the shims. You need to get a smaller shim and get that back into the .004-.006 range. That is why you are starting badly. Also, remember you are going to want to use at least 100 Octane fuel with the CDI and the raised compression. I would also recommend getting rid of that crap pro comm CDI and get a Big gun, RWR, or Vortex. That pro com may cause you much larger issues in the future then it is worth. And keep your timing chain set where it is. You do not need to make any changes there.