DS650 LOCKOUT-Update
#1
DS650 LOCKOUT-Update
DirectDrive made 1 prototype years ago, but it was never put into production. Well, thats about to change. Scott(DirectDrive) has updated the design.
I'm trying to help Scott find out how many people would be interested in a lockout for the DS650. It will be a billet cnc'd clutch cover and lockout, NOT a modified OEM cover. Cost has not been set yet.
So, if your interested...please post on this thread or send me a PM.
Here is a picture of the prototype made years ago, but like I said the design has been updated.
I'm trying to help Scott find out how many people would be interested in a lockout for the DS650. It will be a billet cnc'd clutch cover and lockout, NOT a modified OEM cover. Cost has not been set yet.
So, if your interested...please post on this thread or send me a PM.
Here is a picture of the prototype made years ago, but like I said the design has been updated.
#3
A lockout is designed to do two things, (1) eliminate excessive clutch slippage to facilitate the transfer
of as much horsepower to the rear tires as possible and (2) make the bike quicker. Many people install
a lockout only for the purpose of keeping the clutch from slipping, but if you are willing to do some
experimenting with spring pressure and lockout weight, in many instances you can make the bike
quicker. There are many different rider,engine,bike and weight combinations, do what works best for
your specific setup and not what the current lucky guy setup is. His setup may be completely wrong for
your bike .Best case scenario is to Set-up your clutch to work as a 2 stage clutch, some slippage out
of the hole then Lockup the clutch as early as possible.
The spring pressure regulates how hard that the bike leaves from the start.
If the spring pressure is to stiff it can cause excessive tire spin. If the springs are to soft it can cause
excessive clutch slippage. By setting up your clutch to have a small amount of slippage off the line you
will keep the rpm’s of the engine up and eliminate some excessive tire spin. Remember you want to
move forward as quick as possible,(not sit and spin).you want to use the stiffest springs that you can
without spinning the tires off the line. If you are running the bike on a track your 60’ times are a great
way to tune your spring pressure. It is best to start with your stock springs and make some passes to
establish a baseline 60’ time. Gradually add stiffer springs until your 60’ times begin to slow from
excessive tire spin out of the hole. You can alternate your springs some stiff some soft. You can also
add or subtract weight to the fingers themselves to apply more or less lockup. Do some experimenting
and find what works best with your bike and riding conditions.
of as much horsepower to the rear tires as possible and (2) make the bike quicker. Many people install
a lockout only for the purpose of keeping the clutch from slipping, but if you are willing to do some
experimenting with spring pressure and lockout weight, in many instances you can make the bike
quicker. There are many different rider,engine,bike and weight combinations, do what works best for
your specific setup and not what the current lucky guy setup is. His setup may be completely wrong for
your bike .Best case scenario is to Set-up your clutch to work as a 2 stage clutch, some slippage out
of the hole then Lockup the clutch as early as possible.
The spring pressure regulates how hard that the bike leaves from the start.
If the spring pressure is to stiff it can cause excessive tire spin. If the springs are to soft it can cause
excessive clutch slippage. By setting up your clutch to have a small amount of slippage off the line you
will keep the rpm’s of the engine up and eliminate some excessive tire spin. Remember you want to
move forward as quick as possible,(not sit and spin).you want to use the stiffest springs that you can
without spinning the tires off the line. If you are running the bike on a track your 60’ times are a great
way to tune your spring pressure. It is best to start with your stock springs and make some passes to
establish a baseline 60’ time. Gradually add stiffer springs until your 60’ times begin to slow from
excessive tire spin out of the hole. You can alternate your springs some stiff some soft. You can also
add or subtract weight to the fingers themselves to apply more or less lockup. Do some experimenting
and find what works best with your bike and riding conditions.
#4
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