This is a 125cc Forward Reverse ATV ran fine untill now.

All lights still work, push brake turn key shows green light in Neutral.

Push start button NOTHING happens, the odd time i hear clicking at the starter solenoid but rarely ever does it. Tried to jump the solenoid and that does NOTHING also.

I have replaced "Everything" since i have a Running quad here.
-Solenoid
-Recitifre
-CDI unit
-Starter
-Stator

Still NO go.

 

Have you checked the battery voltage at the battery? Just because the lights come on doesn't mean that the battery has enough juice in it to turn the starter.

 

Yea it was first thing i checked. Also checked the fuse which is good.

 

How did you check the battery? Did you use a voltmeter, and did you measure the battery voltage while shorting across the solenoid?

What happens when you jump the quad battery to your car, and then short across the solenoid terminals? Does the starter turn then? Do you see some sparking when you short across the solenoid?

Turn on the ignition and turn on the head lights. You said they light. Short across the solenoid terminals while watching the head lights. Do they go out? Glow dimly? Stay bright?

After shorting across the solenoid terminals for say 10 seconds, quickly feel all the connection points from the starter post all the way up to the battery plus terminal, and from the battery minus terminal along the heavy ground wire to the engine frame. Are any of the connections getting hot?

 

I tested with a voltmeter battery is good shows 11.4

Today i swapped out the solenoid again and changed to a newer battery.

While pushing the starter button still NOTHING, but when i cross the solenoid it fires right up.

 

Odd...
That, to me, would say that, for one, 11.4 volts is not enough to turn the starter so it sounds like the original battery was on it's last leg.

The solenoid also sounds bad. If it turns over when shorting across the solenoid, all you're doing is bypassing it. Is the solenoid you used as replacement new? Might try the newer battery with the old/other solenoid.

 

I agree with fourwheeldrive on the 11.4 volt battery voltage if it was measured while the battery is unloaded. If you measured it with the solenoid shorted across (the starter is a heavy electrical load) the voltage probably would collapse close to zero. That's what was behind the question about whether the headlights stay on when the starter is hooked up by shorting across the solenoid. Anyway that's behind us now.

When 12 volts is applied across the two small wires feeding the solenoid it energizes an electromagnet inside which sucks in a steel plate that shorts the two big terminals together just like you did manually and got the quad started up. So now the problem is finding out why 12 volts isn't getting applied across the two small solenoid wires.

I'm not familiar with the exact wiring on your quad so we're going to have to muddle a bit, but this is not impossible to get through. On my quad (and most others) there is a safety interlock that prevents 12 volts from being applied to the small solenoid wires unless the brake is on. You have a neutral switch and a neutral light so your quad may use this as a safety interlock instead. Or it may use both.

When the quad was working, did you have to press the brake to start it up? Did it have to be in neutral? Both? This will give a clue as to how it is wired.

Do the following tests:

Test #1:

1) Turn on the ignition
2) Put the transmission in neutral (and make sure the neutral light is on)
3) Set the brake (and make sure the brake light is on)
4) Push the start button and hold it in

While doing all 4 items above measure the voltage on both small wires going to the solenoid with respect to engine ground and report those readings. Also, does wither of those readings change is the start button is released? If the neutral light and/or the brake light isn't lit up then report that too.

Test #2:

1) Turn the igntion off
2) Press the start button and hold it in

While doing both of the above use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance to engine ground on both small wires. What are the two readings? Does either reading change when the start button is released?

Notice that in the first round we concentrated on getting the starter to turn by bypassing the solenoid with a screwdriver across the terminal lugs. This eliminated all of the problems with starter interlocks, wiring, etc. Divide and conquer. Get the starter turning first.

The two tests above are another divide and conquer approach. The goal is to determine if the positive 12 volts isn't getting to the solenoid small terminals, or the ground side isn't getting there. Or maybe you have two bad solenoids. If you do the above tests completely and accurately we should be able to tell that.

 

11.4 Volts is a totally flat battery. A good one has a standing voltage of 12.6 which is 100%.

 

I found the problem.

The switch with the headlights/kill/Button to start which i looked at first but looked fine.

I used small screw driver moved the top 6 wires over and noticed the green wire on the push button came un soldered.

Soldered it back up and everything is good now.