1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

110cc honda looking and sounding engine

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Old 05-27-2010, 11:28 PM
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Default 110cc honda looking and sounding engine

OK, so the neighbor kid... my little buddy... has himself a chinese 110. It looks like my KFX 450R, but it sounds just like an XR100.

Without looking at them side by side, it looks like a honda copy engine with an all cast cylinder.

Well, the problem with them is the stator. The first quad fried 2 stators. The second quad pretty much breaks even if that... as it reads battery voltage all the time... but will run all day and not kill the battery.

It has to be kept on my charger all the time to start back another day though, and this seems common as I talk to folks.

The more I think about it, the more I wonder if a person could adapt a good higher output Honda stator?

Anyone tried this or have an idea if it will work?
 
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by duster
...The more I think about it, the more I wonder if a person could adapt a good higher output Honda stator?
I don't know the answer to this one. But a standard 110cc charging system should work just fine if you find out what's wrong and fix it.

Originally Posted by duster
...The first quad fried 2 stators. The second quad pretty much breaks even if that... as it reads battery voltage all the time... but will run all day and not kill the battery...
Yes, most 110cc quads would likely run all day without killing the battery even if the battery charging circuitry is completely dead. That is because on most 110cc quads (with a 5 pin CDI) the quad engine doesn't run off the battery at all. You could take the battery out (after starting) and it would keep on running. You could unplug the voltage regulator and it would continue to run. The only thing that pulls current out of the battery (and thereby discharging it) is the starter motor (when you crank it over), and the lights. The quad ignition system runs off its own high voltage winding (80 to 300 volts AC) in the stator which has nothing to do with the battery, or with the battery charging system.

Even if you have a DC powered (4 pin) CDI the CDI draws so little power that the battery wouldn't even notice such a small load compared to using the starter motor. But on these quads if you disconnect the battery and the battery charge system isn't working the quad will die.

A 110cc stator is just 3 separate coils with magnets whizzing by. One coil is for powering the ignition system with moderately high voltage. Another small coil outside the flywheel generates a small signal voltage to fire the CDI at the right time. The third coil (or set of coils wired nose to tail) generates lower AC voltage (but at a much higher current) to charger the battery through the rectifier/voltage regulator.

These three coils can be measured with a voltmeter for proper operation while installed on the engine.

I'm curious about the two fried stators. Any idea what was wrong with them? Stators are inherently self limiting. It would be very hard to "burn" one up, though bad connections at connectors can cause local heating and melt plastic. Open wires and shorted turns are the most common problems.
 
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Old 05-28-2010, 01:52 AM
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Wow... it's a shame I didn't run into you like a year ago... when I found myself clueless and pretty much on my own with my new KFX 450R and all of it's wiring complexity...

You could have probably taught me what I learned the hard way over the course of a year in just a few minutes.

I had a problem with that thing that I finally solved with a new aftermarket ECU. So I found and replaced the faulty part, solving the problem, but I never did really solve the riddles of it. Maybe I could email you a color coded wiring diagram, or send you a link to it one day.....

Anyways, back on topic.... The first bike did fry... I mean got hot and smoke came out of the stator cover... I saw them and they were in meltdown... just burnt up on I guess you call it the winding....?....

Anyways, the replacement has never done this.... battery voltage just never increases if you monitor and then increase RPM.

If you will offer me instruction on how to test these 3 coils, I will do so over the weekend because I plan to bring it up here and change his oil for him... I'm trying to teach him how to be responsible for his machine, how to take care of it, and hopefully how to service it himself in time.

I'm a little old fashioned and still believe in the old village theory, so I try to be a positive influence with kids and teach them anything I can by any means I can. A quart oil change seems so trivial in today's busy world... but... quart of Rotella... $3... what you can instill in a kid in the process... Priceless...
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 12:25 AM
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Unplug the 4 pin regulator and find the two stator output wires in the harness connector. Usually these are yellow and white. [The other two wires are + battery voltage and ground. The ground wire will be ground all the time. The + battery voltage wire may be at battery voltage all the time, or only when the ignition switch is on.]

Start up the quad and measure the *AC* voltage on each of those two wires to ground. One should be slightly higher than the other. What do you measure?

Also measure the AC voltage between the two wires from the stator. What do you measure?

What I'm doing is trying to figure out which type of charging system you have.

The other two coils are the ignition power and the ignition trigger. If the quad runs these coils are OK. But here is how to measure them:

I'm assuming this is the CDI on the quad:

Name:  50cc-cdi.jpg
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Disconnect the CDI, then measure the AC voltage to ground on the appropriate pin in the wiring harness while cranking the engine (It won't start of course because the CDI is disconneted):

1) AC Ignition power pin should read 35 to 80 volts AC.
2) Ignition timing trigger should read 0.2 to 0.5 volts AC. This is actually a complicated waveform with narrow +/- 5 volt pulses with lots of nothing inbetween. Hence it averages to a low voltage. But you shouldn't read zero volts AC.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 01:05 AM
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OK... I will do that when I get it up here.


This particular machine looks like a mini KFX450R... but has 2 round lights in the hood and a big spotlight on the bumper... and has a removable rear rack.

I "think" one of the stickers says "Aries" or something like that...
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:00 AM
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Its known the Chinese's ATV use old dies from Honda or Yamaha, but there metal grade is not in the same league. I also wounder if Honda or Yamaha replacement motor parts would work.

Kinda defeats the purpose to buy a bargain $1000 Chinese ATV and buy a $350 replacement Honda Stator for it.
 
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Old 06-10-2010, 02:28 AM
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Default 110 charginng woes

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards
I don't know the answer to this one. But a standard 110cc charging system should work just fine if you find out what's wrong and fix it.



Yes, most 110cc quads would likely run all day without killing the battery even if the battery charging circuitry is completely dead. That is because on most 110cc quads (with a 5 pin CDI) the quad engine doesn't run off the battery at all. You could take the battery out (after starting) and it would keep on running. You could unplug the voltage regulator and it would continue to run. The only thing that pulls current out of the battery (and thereby discharging it) is the starter motor (when you crank it over), and the lights. The quad ignition system runs off its own high voltage winding (80 to 300 volts AC) in the stator which has nothing to do with the battery, or with the battery charging system.

Even if you have a DC powered (4 pin) CDI the CDI draws so little power that the battery wouldn't even notice such a small load compared to using the starter motor. But on these quads if you disconnect the battery and the battery charge system isn't working the quad will die.

A 110cc stator is just 3 separate coils with magnets whizzing by. One coil is for powering the ignition system with moderately high voltage. Another small coil outside the flywheel generates a small signal voltage to fire the CDI at the right time. The third coil (or set of coils wired nose to tail) generates lower AC voltage (but at a much higher current) to charger the battery through the rectifier/voltage regulator.

These three coils can be measured with a voltmeter for proper operation while installed on the engine.

I'm curious about the two fried stators. Any idea what was wrong with them? Stators are inherently self limiting. It would be very hard to "burn" one up, though bad connections at connectors can cause local heating and melt plastic. Open wires and shorted turns are the most common problems.
I feel his pain I had a 110 loved lots of power ran awsome i keptfrying starters i took one apart and noticed the windings are wond so sloppy they can easly fly right off of the armature and scrape the magnets mine would charge but was very weak took along time to recharge the batteries enough to restart without a jump would have loved to slap on an old school pull start and call it done with an auto trans if it died had to push it back home or call for a jump lol
 
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