Alright Many Photos to explain
#1
Alright Many Photos to explain
Alright I finally got the time to rip this thing apart and figure out whats going on.. on my own no luck, thats where all you's come in
so there are many photos I have attached to get an idea as to what were looking at... I have added notes to each photo or question
problem is battery is dying (new battery not even two weeks old) and now all a sudden I can't start from button..
so here something I just noticed too I used to jump the solenoid from the left post (wire that goes to the positive battery) now after changing the solenoid it boosts from the other post (wire going directly to startor) so question stands did I put these wires backwards or maybe even have the wrong solenoid although they look identicle except that one the post sit up top and the new one they sit on the front side..??? would this have anything to do with battery dying and start button not working is the solenoid was backwards or wrong altogether?
then I have many wires and plugs I havn't a clue where they go or some what they are for see pics for more details..
thanks guys
images links
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5870/keyswitch.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9464/killpluggedin.jpg
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/5630/startor.jpg
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2...rtorbutton.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7...efrombrake.jpg
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2...lug2inrear.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3...pluginrear.jpg
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2...killswitch.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5028/brakelever.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5936/carbn.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7564/coil.jpg
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7...wireonkill.jpg
so there are many photos I have attached to get an idea as to what were looking at... I have added notes to each photo or question
problem is battery is dying (new battery not even two weeks old) and now all a sudden I can't start from button..
so here something I just noticed too I used to jump the solenoid from the left post (wire that goes to the positive battery) now after changing the solenoid it boosts from the other post (wire going directly to startor) so question stands did I put these wires backwards or maybe even have the wrong solenoid although they look identicle except that one the post sit up top and the new one they sit on the front side..??? would this have anything to do with battery dying and start button not working is the solenoid was backwards or wrong altogether?
then I have many wires and plugs I havn't a clue where they go or some what they are for see pics for more details..
thanks guys
images links
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5870/keyswitch.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9464/killpluggedin.jpg
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/5630/startor.jpg
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2...rtorbutton.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7...efrombrake.jpg
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2...lug2inrear.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3...pluginrear.jpg
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2...killswitch.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5028/brakelever.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5936/carbn.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7564/coil.jpg
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7...wireonkill.jpg
#2
were there any wires that were hot or trying to melt? i would tend to think your battery had a draw on it and draining it. (going to ground or something was "on" all of the time).
now for your pics: my opinion based on my experience and no wiring diagram.
pic #1, was this like this or did you do that? you can have a key made for about $7, oops. that's in the states. or replace it for about the same money.
pic #2, looks normal
pic #3, nothing abnormal there.
pic #4, the starter button is usually tied to the brake switch interlock. the brake switch must activate and be satisfied to grant the starter to crank. (the wiring could've come apart inside). the faded orange/red button above it should be the "on/kill" switch
pic #5, those wires, if i'm not mistaken, one should go to the CDI (i think) and the other goes to the brake light.
pic #6, maybe the rear tether kill switch or remote switch? i don't know.
pic #7, we'll have to refer to a wiring diagram for that one.
pic #8, sounds right
pic #9, that should be the plunger for the hydraulic brake system. look at the last pic #12, see that hydraulic hose with the nut on it? that's on back side of the plunger/piston for the brake fluid. unless i mixed up the pics, that is what it looks like to me.
pic, #10, simple carb
pic, #11, yep, coil
pic, #12, brake switch wiring and "no crank allowed" safety interlock wire coming from brake switch. now the brake light might not work or illuminate, but up there, you should hear a "tink" when you actuate the brake lever. then you'll know the brake interlock is satisfied right there. just make sure you've got a good level of brake fluid and the brakes are bled so they'll function correctly.
now for your pics: my opinion based on my experience and no wiring diagram.
pic #1, was this like this or did you do that? you can have a key made for about $7, oops. that's in the states. or replace it for about the same money.
pic #2, looks normal
pic #3, nothing abnormal there.
pic #4, the starter button is usually tied to the brake switch interlock. the brake switch must activate and be satisfied to grant the starter to crank. (the wiring could've come apart inside). the faded orange/red button above it should be the "on/kill" switch
pic #5, those wires, if i'm not mistaken, one should go to the CDI (i think) and the other goes to the brake light.
pic #6, maybe the rear tether kill switch or remote switch? i don't know.
pic #7, we'll have to refer to a wiring diagram for that one.
pic #8, sounds right
pic #9, that should be the plunger for the hydraulic brake system. look at the last pic #12, see that hydraulic hose with the nut on it? that's on back side of the plunger/piston for the brake fluid. unless i mixed up the pics, that is what it looks like to me.
pic, #10, simple carb
pic, #11, yep, coil
pic, #12, brake switch wiring and "no crank allowed" safety interlock wire coming from brake switch. now the brake light might not work or illuminate, but up there, you should hear a "tink" when you actuate the brake lever. then you'll know the brake interlock is satisfied right there. just make sure you've got a good level of brake fluid and the brakes are bled so they'll function correctly.
#3
Ok, now you say the battery seems to be grounded... let me explain something when I looked at it the other night right on top the engine there was a split wire two wires were attached to the top of the engine I'm assuming grounding them.... when I took the battery out the black (-) wire came right now and was severed SOOO I took a look and the only thing I could see was that attached to the engine... should the black wire be mounted on top the engine grounding it??????
#4
#5
something just don't make sense seen this all come from no where I'm missing something and it's small I know it... how can I check the charging system first of all - if the startor is also altnator how I got about using the multireader to test the startor... step by step would be appreciated i'm not good with multimeters and knowing what to do with them
#6
ok, Lynn has got a lot of posts on testing the stator which does a couple of things simulataneously.
here's the posts.
http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...help-lynn.html
http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...-stator-3.html
in the meantime, what color wires are coming out of the stator and how many pins on your CDI?
i'm no expert on electrical, that's why i cruise Lynn's posts and read a lot of his expert advice.
here's the posts.
http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...help-lynn.html
http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...-stator-3.html
in the meantime, what color wires are coming out of the stator and how many pins on your CDI?
i'm no expert on electrical, that's why i cruise Lynn's posts and read a lot of his expert advice.
#7
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#9
yeah, from the positive terminal to the solenoid to the starter is the correct wiring alignment. to test the starter,pull it after you disconnect the battery from it, set it on the bench or cement, connect a positive cable to the starter terminal and ground the negative cable to the frame of the starter and LOOK OUT, she ought to be moving and spinning the armature. don't stick your fingers down there. just disconnect it and it'll come to a stop.
#10
K, your confused me - I might have had a typo there as I normally do as I'm at work and attempt to chat here quickly...
so I was told the startor is the altnator also correct? so aside from this RED positive wire coming from that should there be other wires on the other side that maybe I didn't look to see? look at the picture again is that the startor? also is the regulator a part of the charging system? cause I couldn't see one...
so I was told the startor is the altnator also correct? so aside from this RED positive wire coming from that should there be other wires on the other side that maybe I didn't look to see? look at the picture again is that the startor? also is the regulator a part of the charging system? cause I couldn't see one...