First issue: If the key is on, the starter is always engaged. I ohm-ed out the start switch on the handle bars - when it isn't pressed, circuit is open. When pressed the circuit is closed.

I ohm-ed out the 2 smaller wires (yellow with red stripe and yellow with green stripe) going into the starter coil and they show that the circuit is NOT open. This starter coil (under the seat) has 2 terminal connectors and these 2 small wires that lead to a connector. The other side of this connector leads to the start switch.

These 2 wires should show open, correct? Current plan is to buy a replacement starter coil to rectify this issue.

Second issue: kill signal - I pulled the kill signal wire to the CDI because I had no spark. After removal, I had spark.
I ohm-ed out the kill switch on the handle bars. In the run position, the circuit is open. In the kill position, the circuit is closed with 7.2 ohms.
I ohm-ed out the kill lanyard on the rear frame under the seat. With the lanyard and plunger in place (pushing in the kill switch) the circuit is open. With the lanyard/plunger removed, ohms are about 7.2 again.
The remote kill under the tank, measure over 30 ohms ALWAYS.
Each of these kill switches have a wire in common - grey with a white stripe and they are joined on the left side on the frame under the tank. I clipped the grey white wire that leads to the remote kill under the tank. After clipping it, I re-measured the kill switch connection at the cdi and now it shows open unless I switch the run switch to off or I pull the lanyard/plunger on the rear of the bike. That being the case, I re-inserted the kill wire going into the CDI harness. I believe that has solved the kill signal issue. However... I'm not sure why the resistance coming from the remote kill was so much higher that from the other 2 kill switches?

ATV still won't start, but I think the fuel delivery is the reason it's not starting. The throttle cable was seized when I first started messing with it a few weeks ago. It wasn't the cable but the silver cylinder in the top of the carb that the cable pulls up when pressed that was seized.

Lastly, can someone tell me if I can remove the remote kill completely? Not sure if unplugging the harness that goes to the remote kill creates new issues?