I live in western North Carolina near Grandfather Mountain and am about 5 hours north of Norcross so paying to have it delivered was cheaper in the long run for me...although they told me I could come pick it up in Norcross if I wanted. As far as assembly, while we had 3 working, most of the work was done by my son in law and his buddy while I was unwrapping parts from bubble wrap. As you said, a fairly straightforward assembly. I think I could do the next one in half the time. We assembled mine while it was still sitting on the base of the "crate" or angle iron frame...then torched off two rear uprights, put some 2x6's under the wheels and rolled it off the frame with on problems.

As far as customer service or the guarantee, I never expected either to be much considering the price. I did however expect the major functions to work as delivered. I think so far the "support" folks are just shooting in the dark coming up with problems they have encountered in the past. I guess once I get mine fixed they will have one more solution to add to their list of suggestions.

I am glad to know that many of the parts are the same as Polaris. I have been told by a dealer that Polaris a-arms will bolt right up. From what you say it appears the clutch will do the same. I would assume that means I can use a Polaris belt also? If so, is there any particular size I ask for should I ever need one? This is my first side by side although I have had regular four wheelers before made by Honda and Suzuki.

I agree with you totally that if this thing is as solid as it appears to be that it is a heck of a bargain at less than $5K....especially if I can get the 4WD working. 8-)

Also...you mentioned checking the movement of the front differential shift arm by removing the cable and moving it manually. I did that already. Standing at the front and looking down at the front differential, the shift arm is pointing toward the front of the machine. I disconnected the shift cable and moved the arm to my left (the passenger side) all the way until it would move no further to see what its full travel limit was. Next I pulled the shift lever all the way down to where the 4WD should be engaged and then checked to see where the end of the cable was in relation to the arm on the differential. I found the cable lined up exactly where the arm was...meaning the cable is pulling it all the way to the end of the travel limit of the arm. I re-connected the shift cable and drove it around to a place where the rear wheels would spin but still neither front wheel would pull. I think my next step is to put it up on jackstands and have someone start it and put it in gear while I crawl underneath and see what is working and what is not...then go from there.

 

Here is the direct link to the eBike page with the Mammoth.

<a target=_blank class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://www.eatv.us/Mammoth800.htm
">http://www.eatv.us/Mammoth800.htm
</a>

Mine was hauled by Con-Way Southern Freightlines. As I said, you will need to have it delivered to a business with a loading dock and forklift due to the size and weight of the package. You can email Denise Pan at eBike info and tell her where you live and she can give you a freight quote and tell you where the nearest terminal is for the shipper.

 

I forgot to mention that if you don't have access to a business location for delivery that they can probably deliver it to any nearby truck terminal where you can pick it up.

 

Probably a good idea. Do you know if the parking brake holds the machine on a hill? Because this would mean that power is getting to the front end. The parking brake is on the front driveshaft. Which means that if it holds the machine, it is also turning when the rear wheels are turning. That pretty much leaves the problem at the front diff then. That front differential would be super easy to troubleshoot. I'm going to post a link to the parts breakdown on this entry. All of you Kazuma Mammoth owners can use this parts breakdown to find and price almost any part of your machine with the exception of the engine on this site. And Paul, I'll try to get some carb pics posted in the next couple of days for you. Badmoose, I've linked to eBike on here.

http://www.eatv.us/Mammoth800.htm


On this link just enter into the parts diagram lookup fields, Polaris, Ranger, 2004, and then Ranger 2x4 4x4 and 6x6. This will give you pretty much a dead exact parts breakdown for the entire machine except the engine and rear axle. It also lists prices for the Polaris parts.

http://www.babbittsonline.com/...brands/14/default.aspx

 

www.eatv.us

 

One more thing, Old Timer you asked for a belt size. I have pictures of the clutch and belt from when I took mine apart to check adjustment. Compare those pictures with the pictures on the Polaris link that I included in the last post. I think that they are identical. The Kazuma belt looks just as sturdy as the Polaris belts but it even has its size stamped all over it.

 

Thanks for the idea on the parking brake. That is a good starting point.

Thanks also for the link to the parts diagram. The closest thing I can find is the "front housing" but that does not show a shift lever arm like is on the Mammoth unless I am missing something?

 

I haven't compared the front diffs yet, but I think that they are the same. But it would be pretty easy to drain the front diff and remove the input carrier. I believe that the clutch is just a set of rollers that are pushed into place by the shaft that you are refering to. I haven't ever actually had one of the Polaris diffs apart, but I've had similar components apart. If you look at the parts diagram the shaft is mislabeled, but you can see how this system works. The cage and springs(part 11) hold the rollers(part 12) in place and keep them from engaging in the front ring gear(part 10). When the inner race is forced into the center of the ring gear carrier, it pushes the rollers out into the ring gear hub and engages the front diff. I'm not positive, but I believe that this is how this is supposed to work. If you pull the input carrier off of the back of the front diff, you should be able to see the lever and the sliding sleeve that forces the rollers outward. Hope this helps.

 

If you notice it includes a clutch assy that lists parts 9-13. This is the area in the drawings that you should be looking at.

 

I figured that was the part that engaged but just couldn't spot the shaft. Your explanation makes it much more clear. There seems to be virtually no tension on the engagement arm when I move it by hand so that makes me wonder if it is broken inside. Guess I just need to start looking! I sure appreciate your help.