Called Mobile tech department and they told me that the 15-50 syn is safe for wet clutches and recomended for atv's. just not the thinner kinds like 5-30 etc. because they use more anti friction additives that would make the clutch slip but 15w-50 tri syn is ok to use between $4.29-$4.49 per qt he said.

 

Well, I was actually replying to the other guy, klem64, but...

That's what I've been running with sucess. Mobil1 15w50, comes with a red cap, I believe. Yes it's fine for wet clutches. You can get it at Walmart probably cheapest, but expect to pay around $4/qt. You might be able to get it in a 5qt jug for about $3/qt..

 

No, This is a sign that your motor is wearing out.
Plain and simple.

 

So what you are trying to tell me is that after probably 15 hours or so, before I even considered the engine broken-in, that it's engine was "wearing out"??? Don't think so.

The correct oil for the application is relevent here. If you'll notice, the viscosity chart in the owner's manual is the same chart you'll see in the owners manual of a Honda Civic, Accord, Prelude, generator, lawnmower, etc... They didn't bother to take into account the much higher oil temps the air cooled engines see.

A stock 4 stroke engine will last for years, unless really, really abused. The XR engine is well known as one of the most reliable designs there is. Even after a season of racing, 2 long weekend trips to the dunes (where the bike was punished with high RPMs all day long), and lots of practice time a some private tracks, my cylinder had virtually no taper to it, very little wear, anywhere.

Here's an interesting quote from a Briggs & Stratton air cooled riding lawnmower engine repair manual. Word for word.

"Air cooled engines run hotter than automotive engines. Use of multi-viscosity oils (10w30, etc.) above 40 deg F (4 deg C) will result in high oil consumption and possible engine damage. Check oil level more frequestly if using these types of oil."

If it's not good enough for an air-cooled lawnmower, why would it be good enough for my 400EX?

 

Ok whatever...believe what you want to, but it wont fix your problem.

 

The bike is 7 months old.
The bike smoked
The bike has had new piston and rings (warranty)
The bike smoked
The bike has had new cylinder, piston and rings (warranty)
The bike smoked
The bike recently just had a new head and valves(warranty)
The bike is smoking ocassionally right now
The bike wasn't abused since everything was covered under warranty!

This is the reason for tis post, how could the engine be wearing out when
1-it is brand new
2-it has been in the shop 3 times at certified honda repair shops.
3-has been broke in correctly and never sees sand or water in the air box

suggestions?
maybe now it's a little clear?
put in the 15w-50 mobile 1 Gabe i'll let you know how it goes in a couple days of riding around. Thanks everyone. Later, Wicked

 

I never noticed any smoke until I changed my oil the first time & started using Castrol 10w-40 semi-synthetic motorcycle oil..............now I have trouble starting cold, and engine noise @ all temps.......I wish I knew for sure what the dealer put in this thing when I took delivery..........it was fine then. I think I will try a different oil, but definately not Honda HP-4 synthetic.

anyone here using a good NONsynthetic oil? if so, lets hear it.

 

i don't know about the castrol 10w 40 dude, if you really want castrol maybe the 20 50 would be a better choice.

All i know is that with gn4 - bike smoked. Mobile - bike didn't smoke, no engine noise, no whatever.


plain and simple, unless you live in alaska, use 15 50 mobile1

 

Reply to "TheGerk"

That's just the point. It did work. It has for numerous folks here on the online community, and has for my friends. Live with your head in the sand if you like, but an air cooled engine that has the typical service duty that a 400EX does has special oil requirements.

If you run a lightweight oil in yours, I guarantee it smokes on decel after hard acceleration, whether you believe it or not. That is, if you have a 400EX.

I sure would like to hear your technical explanation and experience to back you up on why they all do it:

a.) On decel only
b.) when new
c.) continue after a fresh rebuild
d.) stop when you put a 20w50 or equiv weight oil in them

 

If for some odd reason you don't want a synthetic, use a 20w50, like Castrol GTX. It will work, but requires frequent changes (every 3-4 tanks of gas (depending on your riding habits)), because it will break down fairly quickly.

You may also try an HD30 weight oil, I thought about this before trying the 20w50 and the Mobil1, but the Mobil1 worked so well, I had no reason to switch.

Mine smoked on the original oil.

When I finish my "new and improved" engine I will break it in with Castrol 20w50, then it gets switched to Mobil1 15w50.

If you have excessive engine noise, it's probably time to adjust the valves.

HTH