Just did total front brakes. Wheel cylinders, springs, shoes and turned the drums.

Did the bleed and adjusted the shoes so there was a little drag when I slipped them over the shoes.

I was hopping for an over the bars grab but no dice. I can almost pull the lever to the grip and I believe there is no air because I bled the crapola out of them.

Talk to me. Is this a wear in deal where I'm not getting full shoe liner contact and will need to adjust tnem in as they wear in?

Tanks

 

Did you bleed the brakes at the wheel cylinders or master cylinder?. If you did this with no help, you may have gotten a gulp of air in the master cylinder while bleeding the wheel cylinders.

 

I did the bleed at the wheels while pumping the lever. I know to let off the lever real slow or air will gulp in at the reservoir.

I have never done ATV drum brakes. How should the initial tension or drag be set?

 

We use a vacuum brake bleeder ours is Snap On but lots of companies make them .. Did you adjust the shoes up until you can feel them start to drag when you turn the wheels a little back & forth..

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: HondaMechanic

We use a vacuum brake bleeder ours is Snap On but lots of companies make them .. Did you adjust the shoes up until you can feel them start to drag when you turn the wheels a little back & forth..[/q

I adjusted both wheel cylinders evenly until I could not get the drum on, then backed them off one click each and I could slip them on feeling just a tad of drag by a high spot maybe.

Can one adjust the shors with the drums on?

 

You have to adjust the shoes with the drums on bolt on and torqued properly. You adjust both shoes so that they just start to drag when you spin the drum with your hand.

You get at the adjuster with a flat top screwdriver through the hole with the red rubber plug.

 

never mind


Ron

 

Thanks guys.

I did the adjustment with the wheels on and there was much more to take up than doing it taking the drum on and off. I guess it was a good starting point.
I have a good lever and better brakes. I hope they get a little better as the shoes true up to the drums.

Do you guys see adjustments being needed again after a few hours of riding?

A little history on me.

It's been a long time since I was here. I had a Kodiak then Prairie 650 and this board was great then and still great now.
I have been ATV-less for a few years and got a loaner Honda 1999 TRX 300 4x4. The brakes were gone but the rest of the bike is solid. I am amazed by the running condition of this well used machine. The oil has been changed only once sine new. It runs like a 400 and MPG is killer. It don't smoke or burn oil either and as the kids (grown and gone now) machine it has not been babied either.

I got the machine loaned to me long term to do photography. The brakes were the only flaw and it's the least I can do. The parts were $170.00 from Ron Ayers. Springs, shoes, wheel cylinders, brake line seal washers, and shoe retaining u-springs. I am a machinist so I took the drums to work and turned them myself with a millimeter to spare.

A rank amateur photographer check out my work if you have a few minutes. My own domain, no spam or data miners. http://alcphoto.net/

Why did I go ATV-less? I was not using it and loosing value sitting there. So I sold it for the exact amount to have THIS installed. I use this thing everyday. In a 05 Silverado I crush Mustang GT's and the like. They never know what hits them. The truck looks bone stock on the outside. Dyno'd @ 300 HP to the tires in the peak of summer.

Thanks Again.

 

Beautiful pictures feller.......



Ron