Hi guys. Im new here. I have a 1986 TRX 200SX and ive replaced the stator, the coil, and the cdi box. If I ground the spark plug on the head and spin the engine over it doesn't have any fire on the spark plug. But if I hold the spark plug away from the engine a bit itll jump fire from the spark plug. What could be the problem?

 

Dud plug, replace with a new one.

 

I have a 1988 Honda TRX200SX ,replaced the coil, then CDI, then stator and pulse gen. , still no spark. The last thing maybe the key switch , but why is a 1988 switch different than the 1986-1987 key switches? This was a 3 year run 1986-1988 TXR200SX . I'm stumped any help surely would be appreciated.

 

Is the pulse generator the right distance from the camshaft? They are very prone to not firing if it is too far away. Honda did all sorts of alterations during model runs back then. I would not be surprised if the early key switch worked the opposite way to the late one. They changed from "earth to kill" to requiring the kill wire to be earthed for the ignition to fire, on some models in the 1980s. This would mean they fitted two different CDIs though.

 

Well I reinstalled my CDI and I got a light spark, It seems like I may be getting less than 12 volts thru my key switch, I got 12 volts up to my key switch but a little shy coming out . In 1988 are these DC or AC voltage CDI's 4wire plug and 2 wire plug to CDI I thought about putting a good ground on the engine as well . I had to run a ground to one side of my starter solenoid to get it to work about a year ago. I hated I changed my pulse generator and alternator coil. I thought it may be the problem , one other clue the neutral switch don't work and had to turn it to get he push button on the starter to work any way to by pass those 2 wires coming out and not use that neutral switch?HELP

 

I only have diagrams for earlier 200s but they are AC ignition so it doesn't matter what voltage you get at the key switch. The ignition switch part is a separate switch which operates the kill wire circuit, inside the key switch. The neutral "lock out" increases the sparking power in neutral on most Hondas of that era. If there is a wire from neutral switch to CDI it is one of these. You will never get a decent spark unless this circuit is in good order. There should be an earth wire to the engine of roughly the same thickness as the ones from the battery terminal, as it carries all the power for turning the engine over on the starter.

 

I have the schematics , being a hvac mech. helps me some . But ,I'm beat on this one . I have a light spark with no click or pop as a good spark would have . I did spray a little starting fluid and after spinning it fast it back fired. I thought the CDI controls timing on these 1988 Honda TRX200SX 4 wheelers? But I remember my son revving it up and putting weight on the back and throwing it into gear to pop it up , I fix it ,I will sell it during deer season ,it runs real good no smoke ,when it ran , could he have thrown it out of valve to timing of the pulse generator. I might be incorrect on how it works . This one has me beat. The guy that sold me the CDI said he sold me a DC CDI and it may have the AC CDI. Really stumped. How can I get away from the Neural switch since it doesn't work well , someone threw the chain off before we bought it and did a good job with JB Weld but it doesn't work correctly .

 

Never known a Honda 200 to have a decent spark. A DC CDI is not going to work on your machine, in fact it should have a different number of pins. DC set ups work exactly like a car 12v pos wire from ignition switch, and negative, to igniter (it isn't a true CDI). A wire from trigger coil. A wire from igniter to ignition coil. Also a pos wire to ignition coil direct from ignition switch. That is it.

AC CDIs have a wire or wires from an exciter coil on the stator, one from the trigger coil, an earth, a kill wire to ignition switch, and a wire to the ignition coil, which is a different type of coil to a 12v DC one. Manufacturers also wire all sorts of extras to the CDI, i,e, the neutral wire, Honda even wired the fan through the CDI on the 350.

 

I bought the CDI off eBay , the seller said let me send another CDI , it will be a AC volt CDI , sounds like that may be the problem. I thought about running a good ground to the Green wire which is ground on the shift switch which is broken , maybe that will help, I may have a weak ground to the block , also the key is getting a good 12 volts but after turning the key on a less than 12 volts is indicated which circles to the CDI. may have had a good CDI from the start . As a HVAC mech. when people scream they are to hot or cold we learn how to make things happen. Trying to apply my schematic's knowledge here but don't want to fry a wire. Did have to run a ground to my starter solenoid to get power there , then my push button started working . So its a AC Voltage CDI that's on these 4 wheelers? Hey love talking to you, at least I can read wirings, which helps.

 

Like I keep writing, an AC CDI is not connected to the battery. So isn't going to drop the power at the switch. Honda came out with hybrids which were sort of AC but also had battery power to the CDI, but I'm fairly sure all 250s were not, (even a brand new Honda 250 is pure AC ignition). What confuses people is the ignition switch, which is in fact two separate switches, one switches on the live current for starter button, lights, horn etc, the other switch earths the kill wire.