Swisher Rough Cut--blade problems
#11
08-30-2008, 11:02 PM
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Swisher Rough Cut--blade problems
A-freaking-mazing...was out cutting fields today and...you guessed it....the blades, BOTH, froze up solid!!!!! This after I took it to be repaired at a tractor place. You'd think they'd be able to get it right!!!!!
I've got a new set of blades and bolts. I may have them installed and see if I get different results.
I am absolutely LIVID!!
I've got a new set of blades and bolts. I may have them installed and see if I get different results.
I am absolutely LIVID!!
#12
09-01-2008, 10:14 PM
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Swisher Rough Cut--blade problems
Fellows I've got to apologize for not being clearer in my explanation of the fix for this problem. I re-read my post and I believe I lead you astray.
The way to cure this is:
Get some big wrenches that fit the bolt, lock nut and the nut that is welded on top of the plate that the blades attach too. I use a box end on the lock nut and open end on the fixed nut.
Loosen the lock nut by spraying some penetrating oil on the bolt then holding the fixed nut with the open end wrench and pushing like heck on the boxend wrench that is on the lock nut.
Remove the lock nut from the bolt and spray some more lube on the bolt.
Again holding the fixed nut use the boxend to loosen the bolt. Going to be tight so be ready to pull hard. Remove the bolt. You now have the blade off so you might as well sharpen it.
To put the critter back together:
With the blade in place screw the bolt back into the fixed nut until you have about the thickness of a nickel worth of slack between the blade and the plate.
Hold the bolt and run the locknut back down tight.
Now, hold the fixed nut and tighten the locknut just as dang tight as you can get it. Don't be afraid of breaking it cause you ain't that strong. Least ways I'm not and I hold one wrench with both hands and push the boxend with my foot.
A little grease on the bolt will make it all easier to get apart later.
Using this method I've had no more blade lock up problems.
By the way, I have a ramp that allows me to get the mower up to about knee high while working on it. Between that and cranking the height clear up it makes the job easier. I'm also able to sharpen the blades without removing them with this system.
Sorry for not being clear before.
Mike
The way to cure this is:
Get some big wrenches that fit the bolt, lock nut and the nut that is welded on top of the plate that the blades attach too. I use a box end on the lock nut and open end on the fixed nut.
Loosen the lock nut by spraying some penetrating oil on the bolt then holding the fixed nut with the open end wrench and pushing like heck on the boxend wrench that is on the lock nut.
Remove the lock nut from the bolt and spray some more lube on the bolt.
Again holding the fixed nut use the boxend to loosen the bolt. Going to be tight so be ready to pull hard. Remove the bolt. You now have the blade off so you might as well sharpen it.
To put the critter back together:
With the blade in place screw the bolt back into the fixed nut until you have about the thickness of a nickel worth of slack between the blade and the plate.
Hold the bolt and run the locknut back down tight.
Now, hold the fixed nut and tighten the locknut just as dang tight as you can get it. Don't be afraid of breaking it cause you ain't that strong. Least ways I'm not and I hold one wrench with both hands and push the boxend with my foot.
A little grease on the bolt will make it all easier to get apart later.
Using this method I've had no more blade lock up problems.
By the way, I have a ramp that allows me to get the mower up to about knee high while working on it. Between that and cranking the height clear up it makes the job easier. I'm also able to sharpen the blades without removing them with this system.
Sorry for not being clear before.
Mike
#13
09-01-2008, 10:23 PM
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Swisher Rough Cut--blade problems
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: zitaron
p.s.Tencubed--- I like that list of 'extras' -- cow prod bumper?? tell me more</end quote></div>
The "cow prod" is just an added bar that is low enough to protect the lower part of the quads front when I get close enough to a cow's butt to smack them with a swatter. Often they kick and it keeps them from damaging the quad. Can also be used to bump them if the situation calls for it. The winch is mounted forward of the rack a ways and acts as an "encourager" in these cases. But you got to be ready to make a hasty retreat if they get too POed.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Mike
p.s.Tencubed--- I like that list of 'extras' -- cow prod bumper?? tell me more</end quote></div>
The "cow prod" is just an added bar that is low enough to protect the lower part of the quads front when I get close enough to a cow's butt to smack them with a swatter. Often they kick and it keeps them from damaging the quad. Can also be used to bump them if the situation calls for it. The winch is mounted forward of the rack a ways and acts as an "encourager" in these cases. But you got to be ready to make a hasty retreat if they get too POed.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Mike
#14
09-12-2008, 03:44 PM
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#15
10-19-2013, 02:05 PM
Jeff:
I've had a Rough Cut 44 for a few years now and am familiar with the problem you are having. I found the solution was to keep a set of long pattern box end wrenches that fit the nut and bolt head on hand. When installing the blades I leave them with a little extra room to move up and down when tightening the retaining bolt. Hold the bolt and install the lock nut and tighten it down really tight. Don't worry about breaking it cause it's made of tough stuff.
I've found the out end of the blade needs to be able to move up and down about an inch or a little more to avoid having the bolt tighten down and freeze it in place.
Mike
I've had a Rough Cut 44 for a few years now and am familiar with the problem you are having. I found the solution was to keep a set of long pattern box end wrenches that fit the nut and bolt head on hand. When installing the blades I leave them with a little extra room to move up and down when tightening the retaining bolt. Hold the bolt and install the lock nut and tighten it down really tight. Don't worry about breaking it cause it's made of tough stuff.
I've found the out end of the blade needs to be able to move up and down about an inch or a little more to avoid having the bolt tighten down and freeze it in place.
Mike
I have a RTB 12544 Build date 03/08 that does not have the "Nut Weldment" on top of the driver plate (Probably why the blades finally seized up) The driver plate is tapped, and a single lock nut was put on top. How do I properly reinstall the blades on this beast. ?
Grunt81
#16
09-24-2019, 10:05 PM
Swisher Rough Cut -- Blade issues.
I know the initial post was over a decade ago. But I also have the same issue with the rotary blades binding where they are so tight they cant move and then they become unbalanced and vibrate so bad. This happened to me on my second time using it. I purchased it September 2019.
So..... you would think they would have fixed this problem by now. The customer service person Mike is awesome. They are sending new blades and such to a service center in my town to fix it. But if you guys are still having the issues they need a better design.
So..... you would think they would have fixed this problem by now. The customer service person Mike is awesome. They are sending new blades and such to a service center in my town to fix it. But if you guys are still having the issues they need a better design.
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