now that i have fixed the ground pin to coil pin wire, when i do the #3 test(coil to ground while cranking, i have 0 ac? if i unplug the ground wire going to coil i get the 20-30 ac volts again?,,hmmmm.

 

well i have concluded it is the cdi box.i seem to have all voltages /ohms good on wire harness side ,but no volts from the coil to ground when the cdi is plugged in. there is cotinuity threw wires from harness to ign coil,so im thinking the cdi is pooched.possibly micro relay not switching in cdi?,ill let you know. cheers.

 

Yeah, you measured open before, and that is definitely wrong.

But you measured 0.2 ohms, or 0 ohms? Your post isn't clear...

 

I don't see any results on the kill switch wire test. This will absolutely prevent spark if wrong. Did you do this test?

 

This is suspicious. The guidelines gives a range of voltages which depend on the quad model. But any individual quad should not vary from a set value for that particular quad. Yet you measure from 0.1 volts to 1.3 volts. That is very suspicious. That is a 13 to 1 range. Not right at all. Please do that test over. Do you still get 164 ohms (test 2) and 0.1 to 1.3 volts (test 4)?

I also notice that you are finding a lot of bad wires which you've been fixing one by one. Is this wiring system totally hacked up? Hacked up wiring can have intermittent connections - which lead to incorrect conclusions if you just happen to measure that particular when when it happened to be hooked up. So every time you find a bad wire and fix it, you really need to all the tests over again.

 

Yep, this is exactly correct. This is not an indication of any problem, and totally meaningless data. The CDI charges an internal storage capacitor relatively slowly (compared to the very brief spark event, anyway) *through* the ignition coil primary winding. When you unplug the coil all bets are off. The main CDI capacitor (the "C" in the acronym "CDI") can't get charged, and the CDI stops working.

Do not draw any conclusions from this meaningless data....

 

hey thx for all your advice,i have checked kill switches, continuty when on and open when switched,or vice versa,but the fact that is changing state deems its working would you agree?. to clear up some of my electrical readings , i put the - (hyphon) inbetwwen numbers bcause the meter fluctuates some what. so .2 ohms and zero ohms is what the meter reads on the screen back and forth. as for the wireing mess, they are not perfect for sure, zip ties are hold them in place and look not factory placed,but are not to bad, i will go re do all tests again ,and repost,thx again.

 

hi,sorry so long but been really busy, so i put in new cdi box, and got spark back,new cdi box was loose fittinf and had to take out each metal tab,squeeze a bit then put back, ,so now it seems that as soon as it starts,it will run for 3-5 seconds then die out. seems like its running out of fuel, almost as if there is just enough in the carb bowl,to reach the jet and soon as it starts, goes below and cannot keep up to fuel draw,i say this b/c if i wait 3-5 seconds after it stalls out it will start right back up and die again in 3-5 sec, any suggestions? thx.

 

so been playing with, carb adjuster screws and have a good start and decent idle, but theres no power when you apply throttle???? bogs down like breaks are on?

 

ok lack of power due to plugged exaust,, runs great so far ,thx for all the help. we will say case closed.......for now.lol