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Spilling the Beans on Sportsman 700 and 800 EFI T-Bap wiring

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  #31  
Old 09-01-2013, 09:29 PM
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Default 2009 sportsman 800 touring

Ok, I'm back after finishing the temporary repair on my T-BAP connecter. Ohm checked all 4 wires and no short to ground or to each other. I started the machine and still have engine code 41 & 45. I was checking for shorted wires at the ECU harness plug where all the wires plug into the ECU and found the following wires shorted to ground:

Top Row Pins: 2,3,4,8,9,11,12,13,14,15,16
Bottom Row Pins: 1,2,12,13,14,15,

If you unplug the bundle of wires from the ECU and look down on the connector you can see the pins. The top row is the row closest to the pod light and #1 pin is the first pin on the left. The bottom row is under the to row and the #1 pin is the pin farthest to the left.

Is it really possible all wires are shorted to ground? I will peel off the tap and loop tomorrow and start to back track each wire and see if I can find any break in the wire or insulation.

I have picture but didn't see the option to insert pictures with this forum.
 
  #32  
Old 09-02-2013, 05:30 AM
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  #33  
Old 12-19-2013, 01:57 AM
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it that works please let me know thanks
 
  #34  
Old 12-28-2013, 08:59 PM
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cheap wire.. my high beam didnt work checked bulb fine traced wires and found a clean break inside wraped harness
 
  #35  
Old 06-18-2014, 07:12 PM
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Smile wire harness

<p>
Originally Posted by PolarisPile
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i><b>Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:</b></i></p>
<p>1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.</p>
<p>2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.</p>
<p>3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.</p>
<p>4. Fuel mileage will be poor.</p>
<p>5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i><b>How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:</b></i></p>
<p>1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.</p>
<p>2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected. </p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i><b>Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?</b></i></p>
<p>1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.</p>
<p>2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i><b>The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?</b></i></p>
<p>1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i><b>How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:</b></i></p>
<p>1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p> I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&amp;sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
</p>
<p>&nbsp;hey polarispile i need a wiring harness can you make one for a 800 efi sportsman 2010</p>
 
  #36  
Old 06-18-2014, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bikebuddy
<p></p>
<p>&nbsp;hey polarispile i need a wiring harness can you make one for a 800 efi sportsman 2010</p>
Are you looking for the whole wiring harness or just one of these? --> Only The Best
 
  #37  
Old 07-06-2016, 12:04 PM
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Default tbap wiring

How much for a kit, what is included, can you ship one asap. Thanks Pacman. 949-412-2001 for text or talk.
 
  #38  
Old 07-06-2016, 12:07 PM
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Here's the link to the site.Only The Best I ought to get a kick back on all the referrals I've given... Kits include the connector and about 8" of wiring,crimp connectors and shrink wrap. Just splice it in to the main harness.
 
  #39  
Old 09-05-2016, 02:20 PM
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my 2009 800 efi started rough idling/stall seems only when the engine is cold. i'll start with the harness since its cheap. does it come with any instruction so i cant screw up?
 
  #40  
Old 09-05-2016, 03:03 PM
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Kit wires are color coded so no problems on that plus it has shrink wrap to seal everything. Just click on the link and look at the kits.
 


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