Ok I get stuck with all the odd ones but this one is getting me. I have a 1998 425 Magnum that the battery was hooked up backwards in. After that now within 30 seconds of hooking up the battery and starting it the 20 amp breaker trips and you lose all electrical accessories IE lights,4x4, fan but it still will run. Soon as you shut it off it will not start untilit cools down and the breaker resets. I am love electrical ( I know I am odd but it challenges me) So I go out the diagram and looked at what it powers and the only thing I see is the fan that could make a large draw so I have unhooked it and still get the same tripping of the breaker. Other than unhooking things one by one does anyone have any idea what it could be? I am going to take home the clamp meter tonight and see if it is drawing 20 amps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

Did you replace the circuit breaker? If not, hooking the battery up backwards could be why it's over heating and tripping.If you did replace it and it's still tripping like you say,then the first area I'd check is under the front panel at the main harness and wires/connectors from the ignition switch,cdi,left control switch in case any of these have melted.

 

I worked on it a little tonight and I bipassed the breaker with a fuse an it pops it with in seconds. The fan is unhooked an the lights are off. Key must be on to blow the fuse. So I guess next step is to start un pluging things one by one. I gave a resetable fuse that I am useing now. But this will be tomorrow night. According to the wiring diagrams the cdi, stator, and voltage regulator should have nothing to do with this circuit am I reading this right?

 

First off that's why they use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Any time you install a battery backwards you can possibly fry a cdi,regulator,switches,etc.The battery is normally for the electric starter, instrument panel,lights and fan operation. Diagrams are just a guide on normal trouble shooting but on this one like you say you have to eliminate one thing at a time that's shorting out.

 

The only reason I bypassed the breaker was to make sure it was not the issue. It was not. So I got to work on it tonight and traced the main wire from the breaker to the voltage regulator. I unplugged it at the regulator and no more tripping. So I plugged every thing else back in and turned on the switch and it will crank over and has spark. The owners son decided that he needed the gas for his four wheeler so it is dry and I did not have any gas and it is late so I am not getting any tonight, so I do not know if it will start but it should. Question is now voltage regulator or stator? Is there any good way to test the regulator? I am thinking the voltage regulator because I unplugged the one wire and it fixed it.

 

Check ohms resistance between the yellow,yellow/red,yellow/brown wires on the regulator.Should show some resistance between each other. If any wire shorts/zeros out to each other or to ground,the regulator is toast.Plenty of them on ebay for $34 if needed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rectifier-Regulator-FITS-POLARIS-ATV-4060191-/280574223043?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415386e2c3&vxp=mtr

 

More than likely just the voltage regulator , transistors don't like reverse polarity , the stator is on the other side { AC current } of the regulator .

 

It was the Regulator. One of the legs that plug in to the 3 yellows from the stator had 12 volts all the time.

Now I got that going the fuel pump is not pumping. I am looking at a Will that work to replace the factory one? I can get this one faster then the OEM in 7 days. I am needing the room in the shop. Going to snow this weekend.

 

Plenty of aftermarket copies of the oem fuel pump and shows shipping in 4 days.Same design all the 4 strokes use.http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pump-For-Polaris-Scrambler-Predator-500-Replaces-2520227-/331374202118?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d27710d06&vxp=mtr