Hey guys I`m new to this site...having issues with my 500ho. We just installed new cam and rocker, fuel pump. Gonna be installing new needle valve seat and have to adjust floats. What`s the proper way (or measurements) to adjust these? It has an updated carb(03 I think) and has metal tab on floats!! Right now with old needle seat no matter what way floats were adjusted it seeps out over flow on bottom of carb when revved up, also gets boggy and hard to restart. Thanks for any help

 

Should have the BST40 on this year Sportsman. Should look like this. Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If it is here's a good break down of this carb used on a Ktm which is similar. Shows how to adjust the float setting. Plus these float systems are notorious for dripping a little even if the float is set right.Just have the drain/overflow tube extend below the bash plate to keep it from making a mess if it does occasionally drip.The BST-40 Bible - ADVrider
"IF" for some reason you have the BST34 here's how to adjust the metal float arm on this carb. Have the carb resting on the back side of the carb.Float arm barely resting on the needle pin. Distance from the float to the bowl base should be .051, usually this measurement ends up with the float arm being parallel with the carb body.

 

Awesome thanks for the information, it is the BST40, I`m hoping to install new needle valve and seat tonight and adjust float. I`LL keep ya posted how it works. Cheers!!

 

Ok I set floats and put in new needle valve and seat, carb dosnt leak fuel when bike is off nor when idling...still bubbles out overflow on bottom of carb and bogs a lil bit when riding holding throttle at constant position. I can work throttle and bike will pick it up and seems to run good. It starts good when cold but if I run it and shut it off for short periods of time ..5-10min it is hard to start. Once running it idles good and I can shut it off and start it no problem if done right away. This thing has me puzzled. So far I have installed new fuel pump, main jet (152.5) , needle valve and seat. The carb is not original I think its off a 03 500ho. I havnt checked throttle needle, fuel screw #`s just assumed they would be the same?? It has a 40 piolet and 120 throttle plate. Also it has new cam and rocker arm. Any ideas? Also forgot to mention the carb I bought had a 155 main jet in it which I replaced with 152.5, anyone know all the other jet and needle specs(idle, fuel screw and turns out, throttle needle and clip position) for 01 500 ho??

PS: Thanks for the help in advance this is a great site!!

 

Bubbling out the overflow is still kinda normal at an idle on this carb. Shows to use a 40 pilot,152.5 on both carbs. You can look over both parts lists on the carbs,but should be fairly close to each other. Needle clip position is normally 3rd from the top,but you can try a little leaner and richer and see if it helps.Plus don't overlook obvious things like a dirty air filter,plus might be worth your effort to remove the recoil cover and clean up around the pick up coil and flywheel area,plus check that distance on the pick up coil to the flywheel is no more than .040.IF it comes down to checking the fuel screw(mainly for idle to 1/3 throttle) just pull the block off plug and check how many turns out. If more than 3 turns,back it off to 2 and start from there. 2001..Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
2003..Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Hey thanks....forgot to mention new air filter installed. It doesn't leak anything out of carb at idle only when revved...it just seems to be more than normal. More ya rev more it leaks. I'll pull the pull cord off and and check out the pick up coil. Any special tools required...pullers for flywheel?

Thanks again OPT....

 

No special tools unless you see a lot of metal flakes around the pick up coil face.Then a counter balancer puller or good steering wheel puller would be needed to pull the flywheel. Just mainly check the flywheel and pick up coil for any dirt and mud accumulation and clean it up in general. May or may not help on starting,but worth a shot. Just play around with the jet needle position first,possibly recheck the float setting as most of these carbs just leaked while at an idle and dribbled a little out the overflow,not overflow as it was running. If you take the recoil cover off be sure to seal it up with a good rtv sealant.Not a bad idea to put some around the recoil handle to seal out any water as many have done. You can always break this loose if the recoil is needed.

 

Ok thanks OPT, I never had a chance last night to do these checks , worked late hopefully tonight I`ll be able to check. Would a possible air leak in carb somewhere cause the fuel to foam and leak out over flow? Another question I have the AWD is not working...I don't `t have the headlight pod hooked up(spedo not plugged in) just the ignition key..would this make a difference? My e-start works but no AWD(awd light not on) and reverse over ride not working either. How would I go about testing switchs to see if power is getting to them? Sorry for all the questions , this bike has been major work in progress!

 

Checking for any air leaks,you can spray carb cleaner,WD40,etc around the intake boot,carb,cylinder,etc and see if the idle changes.Air leaks shouldn't cause the carb to over flow. Usually the float level is still off,fuel is leaking from under the o-ring in the seat assy,etc.You can bend the float tab down a tad and see if the leaking stops.If the speedo harness isn't plugged in you can't have awd. Especially if the speedo itself possibly has shorted out in this section that transfers power to the awd. Stupid I know to run the awd through the speedo,BUT several ways to check the awd out. Change hub fluid first,jack the machine up with all tires off the ground,crank and have in awd. If front tires don't kick on,you can jump the brown/white speedo harness wire to the brown wire in the harness which bypasses the speedo,plus some have made a common ground like in this video to regain awd. If only one wheel kicks in you can have a mechanical problem in one hub also. Several videos to help on this BUT the best thing is a manual that has step by step trouble shooting guides.Here's a good link to a 5 buck pdf manual.DOWNLOAD 1996-2003 Polaris Worker/Sportsman/Xplorer 400/500 Repair ...

 

Ok again great information. I was thinking that on the AWD and speedo just wanted to confirm. There was never any issues with awd before so hooking everything back up should take care of this!! I already flushed hubs with Polaris demand drive oil and now there filled to the 4 oclock position! Hoping to get in shop tonight after work and complete all checks you informed me about. Ill keep ya posted on my progress! Thanks a lot, the information you hand out on hear is unbelievable and very much appreciated!!

Jonathan