Another question: when going to install a new bearing on my counter balancer i will obviously have to pull the gear off of the shaft. The mark on the sprocket i can not find becuse of pitting etc. I know there is one on the crankshaft just off from the woodruff. Should I just mark a scribe line on the balancer sproket to the shaft so it gets pressed on exactly the same after the bearing is done?

 

Absolutely make a mark on the counter balancer body and sprocket for realignment. Let the machine shop do this as it's a good job for them.

 

Yes will do thanks i figures there was maybe a woodroof in there but aparently not!

 

Just thought of something else. If the mark on the sprocket tooth is not visible either,best to have the rod exactly at bdc and make mark on the tooth opposite of the mark on the crank sprocket. Easier before you take it off rather than later on.

 

I was wondering at what point on the stroke they nkrmally would allign. Before i pulled the balancer and gear out i positioned the stroke at tdc and just marked the two gears together with a paint marker. I think i will do what you suggested and do bdc that should land right where the mark should be i suspect. I also ordered a used balacer fully assembled for backup. It was only 20bucks on ebay just not sure in the condition of the shaft where the seals run. The guy said it was in working condition but who knows. I tig weld all day for a living so if it is grooved i'm sure it can be filled and spun back down to size at machine shop pretty cheap?

 

Plus a good bead blaster can take off years of corrosion and possible you can find the original mark on the tooth. Still have to make sure you mark the gear and counter balancer body also before you press one apart if bead blasting doesn't show these two alignment marks also. Plus some weren't ever marked to begin with from the factory.

 

Yeah def no marks as the previous owner apparently didnt know about that small amt of oil that should be in with the balacer, as well as the seals leaked coolant in and must have sat forever!!! When this whole motor is rebuilt i will be checking the balancer oil and changing it religously. I also think that premixing 40:1 would be pretty good idea with the amt of $ and work that goes into rebuilding these motors. I have read about some people just pulling the wormgear off of the oil pump instead of getting a delete kit and buying a new throttle cable. Then just drain the oil tank. Any thoughts on that?

 

That's what I'd do,premix 40/1 with good synthetic oil. The oil pump was set at 50/1. Good idea on removing the worm gear. Still need to pull the injector line from the intake manifold and block it off with a small washer and 6mm bolt. Just to be on the safe side.

 

I noticed the manual calls for 3 bond gasket maker gor the crankcase. I'm sute i would have to order it online in order to get it. Are there any alternatives like permatex ultra grey?

 

Most cycle shops have Threebond or even Yamabond at Yamaha dealers,but I've used Ultra Gray also and it's very similar to both of these products.Don't see a problem in using it. The best stuff sold up until a few years ago was Threebond 1104,but was discontinued for 1194 which was slicker to the touch and not as easy to work with. Supposedly it was because there was lead in the original 1104 formula.. Yea,right after I had my fingers on the stuff for about 20 years..