Ran into carb issues on my Polaris 335 Sportsman 1999 while Elk hunting this year.

So after working on it for quite a while without success in the field....dragged it home...and bought a new replacement carb for it from the interweb. Seemed like it would be easier than a rebuild...and not too costly to get it back on the road quick.

So....seems like a pretty easy swapout...but I've got stuck.
I've got it all torn down....all fuel/air lines disconnected.

Can't quite figure out the procedure for disconnecting the throttle cable from the carb. I removed the black (#12) cover. I can see that there is a little brass keeper-- but can't disconnect it and don't want to break the cable. Do I need to disconnect the throttle up on the bars first? How do you get a little slack in the cable? This must be simple...but I couldn't find the procedure by searching previous posts.

Help appreciated!

Trouble

 

Turn the throttle shaft(18) forward to where the brass cable guide(17) is around 11 or 12 o'clock position. You can put a socket or something under the carb buttery valve to hold the shaft in this position. Good finger nails help as you can pull straight out on the guide while pushing the cable to the rear a little.This guide pin is slotted to go between the throttle cable and the hole is recessed at the rear so the cable end locks in to it. Cable can be removed then. DON'T loose the small cable guide. Installation is reverse of this. Hold the buttery fly open,wrap the cable around the shaft until the cable end passes the hole in the throttle shaft wheel. Slide in the slotted cable guide(large hole to the rear). Hold the cable guide in place,remove socket under the butterfly and cable end will lock into the guide.1999 Polaris SPORTSMAN 335 (A99CH33CB) Carburetor | Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Took me 10 minutes and a few broken fingernails...but finally got it.
Thank you for the directions.

Now...I thought the choke plunger would just come right out when I unscrewed the choke cable...but apparently not.

Do you have to remove the holder guide (#13 on the diagram you referenced) as well? Special wrench required?-- its a very tight fit.

 

Holder,spring and plunger comes out as an assembly after you unscrew it. Best way is take a cheap 14mm open end wrench and grind down both round sides.That way you can get to the holder.

 

So....after a couple custom tool experiments that failed...and a trip to harbor freight:

I cut a channel in the end of a 12mm box end wrench to accommodate the cable and thinned out the edge on the grinder and it works like a charm.

So now next problem....the new carb has a brass plug in the bottom of the choke hole. Do I just remove that or is it a different type of choke? It has a a slotted head. Up until now....new carb has been identical to the old one. Did they put in a brass plug just to keep junk out of the choke hole?

 

Sorry about the wrench size..had 14mm on the brain.. Sounds like they supplied a new choke plunger and just stuck it in the carb.It may be different from the one you have or possibly the same. Just get it out and use it.The choke plungers have a slotted head to get the choke cable in then the spring slides over it. Some plungers had a solid brass end,some may have a tip on the plunger. Don't get rid of the oem Mikuni carb.. If it's not corroded up good kits are available to rebuild them.My two cents is to always try to rebuild the good Japanese carb if you can first. After market Chinese carbs if you can't.

 

Imagine that-- it fits a lot better with one plunger instead of two

You have any good threads to point to for initial carb tuning?
I just inserted the throttle cable to the the factory idle screw and brought the choke cable in far enough so the throttle switch has enough slack to operate.

Aslo-- A little late in the process-- but how much does altitude impact the jet size/settings? I live at about 3200 feet and we go up to 4500 for hunting fairly often

Excited to see if this thing will fire up!
My wife is more excited because I'm taking up her garage space and she's parked outside for a week in the worst winter weather that we've had in decades. I've been sleeping on the couch....ha

BTW..thanks for the advice on the carb-- I figured I would keep if around for a future rebuild/parts. It will be interesting to see if an inexpensive carb will hold up.

 

Base carb setting is 2 to 2.5 turns out on the pilot screw after lightly seating. Sound like the stock jetting may be ok.Normally good up to 6000 feet. Make sure you drop the bowl on the new carb and check that the pilot and main are the same size as the oem carb. Look at this pdf section on carbs that include your BST34. Shows jetting chart for temp and altitude,float level adjustment and more.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA