I just bought a 2004? model Ranger 500 4X4 and have a couple of problems. The serial number leads me to believe it may be a 2005. (1) I have a charging system that is not putting out any voltage. The battery only read 6 volts when I got it home. I have charged the battery to 12.5 volts and that is all it will show when started and idling or revving the engine. It never changes from battery voltage at any rpm. I think this is basically the same setup as my 02 Magnum 500 and I think you have covered checking out the charging system in the past. Maybe you can link me to the past procedures or offer some advice on this. (2) The engine also starts and idles good, but it does not have any power under a load. It won't really go at all unless I choke the engine. It doesn't seem to be missing, just acts like no fuel or running lean. I have changed the spark plug and fuel filter with minimal results. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks,

 

Look at the serial # under the hood or on your title.10th digit is the year model.Also the flywheel cover should have the engine serial#. The first two digits are the year model also.Also under the hood on the left hand side you will have have 3 small modules,one being the regulator if you have the 2004 model. If you have a big finned module you have a 2005 model. Item#4 on the regulator.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Item #32 on the 05 model. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Either model whether regulator or ecm is probably bad. Especially the 2005 models with the ecms. Had to replace quite a few of those.
Both years used an inline fuel pump coming from the tank. Pull the fuel line from the carb and crank the engine over. Should be a pulsating stream of fuel if it's good.If not plenty of aftermarket ones are on ebay along with carb kits. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Polaris-Ranger-Fuel-Pump-400-500-Replacement-4011545-4011492-4010658-4170020-/191096423225?hash=item2c7e3c0339&vxp=mtr Plus not a bad idea to load test the battery also. If a bad regulator or ecm has drained it down constantly,it may be sulfated and not able to hold a charge anyway.

 

Thanks OPT. I bought this through an auction and it doesn't have a title. The serial number on the frame behind the drivers side front wheel is all I have to go on right now. It's 4ARD50AX4D440444. Does that also give a date code for the year model?

 

Only showing 16 digits..You're missing the X after the first 4 in the serial#. Shows to be a 2004.

 

I am still wrestling with a new (to me) 2004 Ranger 500 4X4. Over the weekend I was able to check out the fuel pump and it is fine. Drained the gas tank and filled with fresh fuel. Changed the drive belt and blew out the clutches. Changed oil & filter. Cleaned air filter. The engine starts and idles great. It wont take the throttle when it's in gear and trying to accelerate. If I pull the choke **** it does much better. Still slows down and struggles with even a slight incline uphill. I am just starting to look at the carburetor. It's a Mikuni BST34. I removed the top cover and checked the diaphragm, no holes or tears and it's pliable. The main jet needle? hanging from the slide has the e-clip in the 2nd from the top groove. Can you confirm this being the correct position? Does it richen the mixture by moving the e-clip up or down? or am I looking in the wrong place? Engine does not pop or backfire, it does seem to surge a little. It's hard to tell for sure. Any help is appreciated. Thanks,

 

Don't know why the moderators sensor the word k.n.o.b. If you have to have the choke on it's usually a sign that you have jets stopped up or trash in the carb bowl or both. 2nd position from the top on the e clip is fine. Dropping the clip to say the 3rd position actually raises the slide needle and from idle to about 1/4 throttle it will run just a tad richer.Raising the e clip drops the needle and runs a tad leaner at idle and up to 1/4 throttle. Adjusting the e clip is mainly used for fine tuning,removing small bogging or hesitation problems on take off. I think you need to pull the carb and clean things up. Here's the pdf section from the manual on your carb along with parts breakdown,adjusting float level etc.Just make sure you can see daylight through the pilot jet and main jet after cleaning. Any good carb cleaner with a spray nozzle plus having an air gun is even better.Carb kits are available on ebay if needed. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA

 

I am headed back to work on the 2004 Ranger 500 4X4 this weekend. Planning on cleaning and putting a kit in the carburetor. I also have a voltage regulator to install to see if it will fix the charging problem. I have had no luck turning up a wring diagram. Will the diagram for an 02 magnum work? The regulator I have has got 5 wires coming out of it and the 02 diagram I have only shows 4. There I a yellow, a brown, and a red coming off one side and a yellow, and yellow/red stripe from the other side. I think someone ma have changed the previous regulator and I would like to be sure I get this one wired in correctly. As always, any tips or advice is greatly appreciated. I am making a 700 mile round trip to work on it so I am trying to be as thorough as I can when I am there. Thanks

 

No the wiring is different on the Magnum regulator. Don't have the schematic on the 04 Ranger,but yes you should have 5 wires. Red,yellow,brown,yellow,red/white. Doesn't matter on the solid yellows which way they connect to the opposite yellows. Yours should look like this one. Old part#2204317 replaced by #4010129 as this one shows.http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-for-Polaris-4010929-2204317-ATV-UTV-/151747737864?hash=item2354deb908&vxp=mtr

 

First I would like to say "thanks" for all of your help and advice. It saves part time wrench jockeys like me a TON of time and money. Bringing you up to speed on the 04 Ranger. I installed the voltage regulator and that has fixed the charging issue, again thanks for the advice. My carb kit didn't arrive in time for me to take it with me but I went ahead and tore into the carb anyway. I have cleaned it thoroughly and blew out the jets and fuel/air passages. I also verified the fuel level in the bowl with the engine off and running. After putting it all back together I have the same results. I read another post from June 23rd of this year and it was concerning a 2006 ranger with the same symptoms as mine. He removed the air box and checked the slide action while driving. The slide was not opening and when he lifted it manually it would take off and run. Mine is doing the same thing. I didn't see that his problem was ever resolved so Im still looking for the problem here. The slide moves freely, I held the diaphragm up to strong light and can't see any holes. I have cleaned the sealing groove on the carb and flattened the areas around the cap screws. I even took some grease and put a thin coat in the groove and cap surfaces and around where the slide and diaphragm fit together. Still no change. Does it matter which way the slide faces in the jet block? Should the slide be able to be turned in the diaphragm? I don't see any place to take a vacuum reading from the manifold or front of the carb, but the engine runs strong when I lift the slide. No backfires or missing. What am I missing/looking for? Thanks again.

 

This carb is supposedly a "tamper proof" carb as it has no parts reference for the diaphragm and slide assembly. Originally equipped with screws that you could only remove with small pliers. Yes the diaphragm has a certain way to go,has the tab in it that fits in the carb body. The slide itself if I remember correctly has a relief or slide cut out on one side at the bottom. It faces toward the engine. Again the manual said if you had carb problems on these to replace the carb which sounds strange to me? Make sure the vent tubes are open also on the carb.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse You can check the parts against a later model Ranger carb that does show the top end parts and if in doubt you can order replacement parts.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse