Hi folks, I’m a few hrs. from my first oil change on my ’05 Sportsman 400 and have a few questions regarding the procedure. The manual addresses these areas in terms of the process:
1) Drain oil tank - Seems easy enough.
2) Disconnect the lower oil delivery hose & remove screen fitting & clean. - Is this necessary? Shouldn’t the oil filter catch the debris?
3) Change filter - Easy enough.
4) Drain crankcase (I think it is also referred to as the “sump”) - Doesn’t seem too difficult. Is it necessary?
5) Prime the oil pump using the procedure on page 76. - This scares me just a bit. What do you folks use to pinch off the vent line? Vice-Grip?? Is the rush of air they are talking about easy to hear? Is it fairly fool-proof so you don’t have to repeat the priming procedure several times? Is there a risk of only hearing a small wisp of air and not getting a good prime? Am I getting concerned about a super-simple procedure?

Any pointers from someone who has good experience in this area would be a big help.

Also, I plan to change all gear case & transmission fluids at the same time. These seem rather painless, but any input in these areas would also be appreciated.

Thanks folks!

 

Same procedure as my 02 Sportsman 500 HO. This is what I do .Drain oil at tank, and drain crankcase,r&r oil filter 2 qts oil ready to go.As far as the oil line and fitting I tried that and heard a cracking noise so I stopped thought I busted the oil tank. Luckly i didnt. I asked the dealer and they told me that it would be ok if I didn't remove the line at the tank,if you don't remove it then you won't have to pinch the line.If you do decide to do all the procedure then you can take a pair of needle noise visegrips and pinch the hose about 6" from the oil tank. But really I would call the dealer were you got it and see what they say. If its like mine they change the oil the fist time free. Don't be afraid to ask to see it done so you can do it yourself next time.

 

You can wait till 500 miles before you do a major service unless you drowned it in water for a long time. They are sealed good, but if you want to change it then get the recommended oil for the tranny, it is a little high but i am a firm believer in the Polaris oil, and use the Polaris hub oil for the hubs, as far as the front diff, you can use standard 80w/90 gear oil for it. Another good thing with polaris oil you can go twice as long or longer on oil changes.Be sure to use 0w/40 oil for the engine, I use Polaris oil, I buy it by the gallons, its cheaper. I have seen 0w/40 at walmart but its about the same price as polaris,so go with name brand,espiacially under warrenty so there is no debait if a problem comes up.

 

99farmboy, as far as your 1st service the engine oil and filter are a must. the rest of the fluids are probably ok unless you've drowned it in water. the oil line really needs to be pinched off, ive seen 2 failed engines after not priming when the oil was changed. the oil in the sump can drain out of the oil pump, this is the main reason for priming.the top line needs to be pinced off about 2 inches from the tank NO FURTHER!! there is a slit cut in the line for a vent, any further out and you will defeat the purpose of priming. we usually use a pair of hose pliers or needle nose visegrips. you don't need to kill the line just pinch it. run the engine, shut it off and yes you will here the air escape. if not recheck you position on the line and redo it. drain both the tank and sump. the filter in the tank has pretty large holes, usually don't remove unless there is a problem in the motor. and like dontgetbehindme stated, make sure to use the correct fluids and filters. can't go wrong with OEM, especially if you ever have a problem. also, if you have an extended warranty, be sure to keep receipts and maint. records.

 

jeffro206- i have a question that I think you just anwsered. But the slit in the line you are talking about is it supposed to be there marked with white paint on the hose? I was looking it over right after I bought it and I thought it was a defective hose and took it back to the dealer they put a new hose on that didnt have a slit. That was 500 miles ago. If this is true then maybe I should cut a slit in it? I would have guessed it would get dirt and water in it.

 

dontgetbehindme,
the slit is there to act as a vent. double check the line closely as a replacement line may not have the white marker on it. the factory does this mainly for visibilty on the assembly line. its tough to see up under the tank. the only problem i would say an unvented line may cause would be if the line became pinched or plugged it would create alot of crankcase pressure. found this out on a new bike when a new tech forgot and left the visegrips on and rode the bike for about 10 mins!!! didn't hurt anything, but wow what a burst of air!!

 

Thanks, I will have to cut a slit. I know for sure that it doesn't have 1 now. For that was the vreason it was replaced. I would have guessed the dealer would have known about the slit. I just thought the white paint was to mark a bad hose and it got installed any way. Who would have known but the dealer? Oh well thanks again.

 

Thanks for all the tips guys! I found that at 7/8" oxygen sensor socket at a discount tool place (Cummins Tools in Kansas City) for $1 fits the oil screen perfectly. Should make it much easier if I decide to remove it & clean.

Also, since I'm a few hrs. from my oil change I still wanted to hear the "rush of air" the manual was talking about when you prime the oil pump. So, I took a needle nose vice-grip with 2 pieces of hose on the jaws and pinched the vent hose, ran the machine for 20 seconds, shut it off, & released the vice grip. The rush of air somewhat resembles that "hollow" sound you hear when you put air in a tire. (Be sure to shut off your garage radio, washing machine and tell the dogs to quick barking at each other to make it much easier to hear)

As far as the slit in the hose, it was not hard to find even though I didn't see a line marking it, but it is there where the manual describes.

I also went to my Polaris dealer and picked up all Polaris brand fluids & grease. I'll just stick with their brand just to make sure I'm using the right material. Thanks again!

 

I have an 03 400 and the polaris manual only says the 500 HO engine has to be primed. I haven't primed mine with 1400 miles so far. Please let me know what you guys think.

 

Well your like me then. If its not locked up yet its been priming itself. But im going to do the proceedure from now on.