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Magnum 330 4x4 xmission slip and general questions
I just picked up a magnum 330 4x4. The shifter would not go into High or Park. I found the spring to the foot brake disconnected and hooked them up and the switch moves up and down with the foot pedal. It worked find for just a bit.
It now grinds at times and is difficult to shift and hits the L and R gears hard when moved into those gears. On an occasion it went from N to L and Low gear did not engage and was grinding.
If I shut it down and shift and restart, it seems to move fine-what is causing difficulty in the shifting while the engine is running.
Also...do the crankcase and the transmission use the same reservoir?
Any thoughts? This machine will cause more questions until I am more familiar with it. I have worked on tractors but not atv's.
Just a thought here. You say you get grinding and difficulty shifting when the engine is running. How high do you have your idle set? Come winter I bump the idle up a little and can tell if I've got it to high if I get those symptoms.
The crankcase and tranny are seperate as well as different fluids. You can use other than popo brand for the crankcase (I use mobile-1 synthetic 0-40)but I personally would stick to popo brand for the tranny.
Thanks Readymixer-rpm's seem high. They creep up to 3,500. I've not done anything with the carb yet as it starts fine and did not want to mess that. It did shift fine at the current rpm and after I attached the spring, it did fine. Not sure why it is acting up now.
Where is the tranny compartment fill port and is there a dipstick or just a horizontal plug for a fill level?
I pulled the drive belt last night and will see if I can find one in town today. I've done some reading on this and that was one solution that appeared to help a guy. My belt is stiff and there is an area where four or five of the outside ribbed corners are worn off.
One other item-there are two wire sets on the front end that are disconnected. One is multi-color with red/red white stripe/black. Maybe another wire cannot recall. The others are a larger guage, (thinner), and appear to be black and darker colors. The guy told me in advance the wired are disconnected and he said it was for the four wheel drive--now the question, when I put in reverse it lunges when I accelerate. I keep the selector in 2x4.
I have just had this since Thursday night, so some of my observations are not based on hours of use....
Thanks a whole heap! Any other thoughts are appreciated
Thanks for the suggestion-I hope that fixes it. I had all kinds of fuel problems so once it was starting fine, I did not want to muck that up with other issues pending.
Is it possible to describe for me the location of the tranny fill port and level check? Do any of the standard big box stores typically handle the Polaris tranny fluid? Not sure if my local guy will have it, or if he will be open.
(If they did'nt change anything from the 325's!!!) your fill port should be on the right side down to the left of the aux pull start. No dipstick just a plug. you'll have to measure the depth of the fluid. I use a very narrow measuring stick just like you were using a dipstick. It should state in your owners manual what the depth should be. If you can't find this info in your manual or online let me know and I'll check my fluid caps sheet. I would'nt think the tranny's would be different but you never know from one year to the next. What year is yours?
I think the year is a 2005. I have not found the S/N to verify. I do not have the manuals. I did find a pdf of the 2004 magnum 330 AWD parts book. It is helpful and seems pretty close.
Readymixer-if you have that depth, that would be great. I assume it is a "wet depth".
I replaced the drive belt today. NAPA had a replacement belt. It did not help the shifting. I think it is the rpm. It starts out at around 1200 rpm but in less than two minutes at idle it bumps over 2,500 rpm and eventually creeps to over 3000, especially after running it. I am not sure what would cause it to creep up like it does.
I tightened the adjusting screw on bottom of the carb. It is not a typical slotted screw, but rather has finger grips on it. I do not like it as it is difficult to monitor the number of revolutions while adjusting. At any rate I did not see a difference in the rpm but I did not adjust it over one full revolution in either direction. I am avoiding taking off the carb for a cleaning as this point. Currently we just shut the machine down if we need to shift, (mainly to and out of reverse).
I'll try getting you those numbers tomorrow on the tranny and as for rpm's double check for places where it could be sucking air which could affect the rpm's. Also counter clockwise on your idle screw should bring it down. The 325 that I have idles so slowly when it's cold that you think it would die and after a few min. as it warms up, the rpm's come up to where they should be, (not so noticable in the warmer months)) it's been that way for as long as I can remember. I'm not sure if it's just mine, never had another325-330 around to compare it to. Another thing to check would be your throttle cable, does it operate smoothly,come all the way back to idle position, sticking at all?
Readymixer-thanks for the helpful info. I considered the throttle cable and will keep it in mind. I reasoned out of it since without touching it the machine will idle up on its own. It seems to move freely.
Pulling in air is another good suggestion taking me back to my thought of pulling the carb and cleaning it and putting on a new mounting gasket...it seems every time I pull a carb-I open a can of worms. And that is just the simple ones! The high idle sounds right-with the fuel issues this thing had, I am suspect that the carb was turned up to offset the problems and I think that turning it down will help with the shifting.
I appreciate the help and if you get those tranny fill numbers-thanks! I think this machine was somewhere between not well maintained but not run too hard either. I think...hope...it has some good life in it.