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Cylinder sleeve damage

  #11  
Old 05-12-2015, 06:05 PM
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Bit the bullet and just ordered whole new oem piston kit from partzilla. Part of me is telling me to just suck it up and order new jugs too but my wallet is saying use the used ones off ebay lol
 
  #12  
Old 05-14-2015, 02:48 AM
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Probably a good thing you did order new piston kits. After seeing the pics of the old cylinder with the flaked off nikasil, I'd be leery of running the same pistons again.But that's just me.Would kinda pyo if you had to go back into an engine the second time.
 
  #13  
Old 05-23-2015, 02:19 PM
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OPT how the hell do I get the expansion plug out of my old cylinders,???? It's driving me nuts
 
  #14  
Old 05-23-2015, 02:31 PM
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You don't with out damaging it.. If the used cylinders didn't come with one(don't know why it was removed?),they're $1.82 here + shopping costs Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse or on ebay $2.10 +shipping.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-NOS-Plug-Expansion-1-1-8-P-N-7051534-Sportsman-Ranger-P8-/171555727981?hash=item27f184aa6d&vxp=mtr You might try a local auto and see if you can find this 1 1/8" plug.
 
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Old 05-23-2015, 02:37 PM
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I ordered new cylinders from us chrome. It doesn't say if it comes with the expansion plug and the (non-English) man I spoke to on the phone said I must remove it out of my old block before sending it back to receive my core charge.
 
  #16  
Old 05-23-2015, 02:44 PM
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Just run a dry wall screw(or two) through it,grab a pair of channel locks on the screw heads. Heat the cylinder up with a propane torch around the plug and pop it out with a small hammer.Don't know why it has to be removed for a cylinder exchange unless the heat from them resurfacing the old cylinders damages them in anyway..
 
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Old 05-23-2015, 02:48 PM
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Ok thx. Was hoping to use them in the new jugs.
 
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Old 05-23-2015, 02:48 PM
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Will report back when the machine is running lol
 
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Old 06-09-2015, 03:25 PM
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Well I got the bike all back together. Had it running and idling awesome. So thanks for all the help as far as that goes.

Still getting coolant in the oil. Tried changing the mechanical seal in the WP. Broke it trying to pound it in lol. Any tips/help opt?
 
  #20  
Old 06-09-2015, 04:24 PM
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ALWAYS remove the outer case when installing water pump seal and the internal oil seal or you take a big chance in bending the oil pump/water pump shaft. This is one area you don't want to take short cuts like some have done. I've had to tear the case off and replace several shafts that people bent replacing seals. Go by the manual on this one! Flywheel and stator has to be pulled,remove the cover then you can take the cover to the work bench,pry out the oil seal from the back of the case,then knock out the w/p seal and replace both seals on the bench. Normally if the oil seal leaks it drips through the same weep hole in the water pump cover that coolant goes through if a water pump seal fails. The weep hole is often called by mechanics as the "dead man" area. Nothing is supposed to go in or out the weep hole unless somethings wrong.Either coolant drip or oil drip from the inner seal.You have new cylinders,new gaskets,but possible a water jacket in the head is cracked allowing coolant into the combustion chamber,or the head may be warped allowing coolant to seep into the combustion chamber,or you didn't torque it down properly.Having the head check for any warping,plus having it magnufluxed can tell if this is the problem,but you have to tear it back down.What come to mind off hand. Hope I'm wrong on this one..
 

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