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Once again Scrambler 500 awd engaging

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Old 04-24-2015, 06:46 PM
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Default Once again Scrambler 500 awd engaging

99 Scrambler left front awd engages automatically. Replaced armature plate, clutch looks fine, replace fluid (on demand fluid), even unplugged coil. Put into gear all wheels off the ground. Within 20 seconds, front left engages.

Should I try replacing the coil?

Thank you in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 04-24-2015, 08:24 PM
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Check the coil resistance. Should be around 24-30 ohms. If this checks out check the face of the coil sleeve and the thin casting on the strut itself where the coil slips over. This is the inner "pole" or where the armature plate rides along with the face of the coil sleeve. This is where you find the two wear rings on the back of the armature plate.If the coil doesn't ohm out ok,replace it and the coil sleeve,But if there is any damage to the strut casting,this may not help. I warn people on this as I've had to replace strut assemblies a lot of times. Plus the coil sleeve and inner pole of the strut must be flush with each other or no more than .001 clearance or you can have engagement problems.Make sure the torque on the hub nut is 12 pounds max. If you need a coil(sleeve must be replaced also) here's a reasonable place to get them.Items 12,14.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus here's how to measure the clearance. Plus another pic of a badly damaged inner strut casting.
 
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Old 04-24-2015, 10:08 PM
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I'll check those out. More details on how I was checking awd. ATV off the ground, running and in gear. Rear wheels moving forward at idle. Move awd switch on. All four wheels moving forward at idle. Turn awd switch off. Rear wheels and left front wheel still moving forward , right front wheel not moving.

Awd switch off and still in gear. Accelerate gas, left front wheel engages automatically.
 
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:23 AM
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Try to stop the left wheel with your foot when awd is disengaged. If you can stop it,then the new armature may need time to break in. Having all 4 wheels off the ground is good for testing if the awd system works ok,but doesn't always duplicate how it would work if all 4 wheels were on the ground with a load on them.I've had that happen a lot,especially with new parts.
IF you can't stop it with your foot,try against a post or tree,letting the rear wheels slip,front tires engaged.After that if the wheel stays engaged while slow driving,whether awd is switched on or off,then you need to tear it back down to see where the problem is.
 
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Old 04-26-2015, 10:51 PM
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Old Polaris tech, thank you. I made a few human errors on left side. First, put spacer in the wrong place. Instead of putting spacer behind clutch. I had it in between the two outer bearings. Then over tightened nut. Of coarse the right side started engaging with awd off. Tore it down, armature was groved really bad. Put new one on. Awd working good now. Thank you

Next trouble I want to get into. My machine is a 99 scrambler 500. I already have a DG exhaust and jetted carb. Is a high rev cdi worth the time and money. Will I see a great improvement in straight line performance?
 
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:37 AM
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Just see how it runs with the pipe and carb first.You may just want to save your money instead of buying an after market cdi.
 
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Old 04-30-2015, 02:03 PM
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I've had the pipes and carb on for awhile now. It does really good. The racers have to work to pull away from me on the drag strip.

Thank you for all you help old polaris tech.
 
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Old 04-30-2015, 03:44 PM
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You're the one that did all the work! Pat yourself on the back that you learned something new and probably save some $ doing it.
 
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Check the coil resistance. Should be around 24-30 ohms. If this checks out check the face of the coil sleeve and the thin casting on the strut itself where the coil slips over. This is the inner "pole" or where the armature plate rides along with the face of the coil sleeve. This is where you find the two wear rings on the back of the armature plate.If the coil doesn't ohm out ok,replace it and the coil sleeve,But if there is any damage to the strut casting,this may not help. I warn people on this as I've had to replace strut assemblies a lot of times. Plus the coil sleeve and inner pole of the strut must be flush with each other or no more than .001 clearance or you can have engagement problems.Make sure the torque on the hub nut is 12 pounds max. If you need a coil(sleeve must be replaced also) here's a reasonable place to get them.Items 12,14.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus here's how to measure the clearance. Plus another pic of a badly damaged inner strut casting.
I know this is an old thread but I`m glad I found it. I have the opposite problem. my left front wheel not pull..i`m going to check the coil resistance..
 
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