Well I came home today, pulled the case back apart, double checked that everything looked good, reapplied sealant and put it back together. Went together great again. I tightened everything up and it seems to be fine this time. Don't know if something was just ever so slightly out of whack or what, but I think im good now.

I actually did hit it with the dead blow in both directions last night, just couldn't get it to loosen up.


I didn't replace the rod, but I checked it over well. No scoring or pitting or play in the upper bearing, and the lower bearing has no radial play at all, just slight side to side which should be normal. I would for sure have replaced it if its condition was in question but it seems good right now. I also don't believe this engine has ever been freshened up with a new top end, so im assuming it may not have seen a huge amount of use. That doesn't explain why the crank bearings were bad though so... I do appreciate the advice on the Rod though. It didn't fall on deaf ears, I guess im just confident enough that this one is in good shape for now. Hopefully I don't regret it in a few months


I did not know about the plastic oil pump drive gear, but luckily I had the steel one. I believe this engine is actually a 94 model engine from the stickers on it. I guess they swapped it out at some point. I think I may go ahead and stick the bottom end back in the machine while I wait on the top end to get done. I haven't ordered any parts for the top end yet, but I think im just going to go oversize on the piston and bore it.


I need to order a new thermal switch. The fan works excellent, but the thermal switch is broken. I want to fix that before I get it up and running. This machine will likely be hauling some firewood and in the woods at low speed a lot, so I want to make sure it stays cool.


I also still need to figure out the charging issue. I need to figure out how to test the stator. If that is good, then I think ill just order a new regulator and try that because the regulator on it looks a little rough.


I am anxious to get this going. The machine had quite a few small issues when I bought it but the frame is very nice and the plastic is pretty good too so I think itll make a good machine when its all said and done.

 

Wouldn't waste money on that flimsy fan sensor that's mounted on the top motor mount. Fans rarely ever came on unless super hot because the blame thing wasn't mounted close to the engine in the first place! Plus most of the time the sensors would either short out and the fans would run constantly or they would break from vibration and wires would dangle around. I'd hook the two sensor wires on a toggle switch and kick the fan on only if under a heavy load or traveling at low speeds for extended intervals. Most air cooled engines don't even have fans and do good in most cases with out them..

 

I took OPT's advice on the fan switch.

Found a marine 20 amp lighted fan switch on eBay for $10 and it has worked well. Got it here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKER-SWITCH-12-VOLT-20-AMP-PICK-FROM-LIST-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-AUTO-MARINE-NEW-/301308286490?var=&hash=item46275f961a
I mounted my switch on the top panel just above the choke. This allowed me to pull the factory wires from the sensor back under the front panel and use the factory spade connectors on the wiring with no modification to the wiring.

Also got a TTO Temp monitor cause I like gadgets...

 

Thanks, I will just put a switch on the fan sensor and call it good then. If they are working it, they can turn the fan on.

I finally got the engine back together. Seems to be running great, but compression numbers show low right now. Not sure if it needs to break in some or what. Ive only run it about 15 minutes at idle with a few short rev's.

So, now I am moving on to the last few minor issues that I have.

#1 - It still isnt charging the battery. OPT, can you tell me how to test the stator? Im really hoping its just the regulator...

#2 - Still need to mess with the clutches. I have disassembled the secondary clutch. The ramp buttons actually look pretty good. There is a lot of belt dust in everything so im going to clean it all up real good and put it back together. OPT, is there a simple procedure for clocking it? I know how it goes back together, but does the spring have to be preloaded? Also, would less preload allow it to upshift quicker? Im thinking since its not going to be used for hot rodding, a quicker upshift might keep RPM's lower for quieter running. Once I get the secondary back together, ill give the primary a good looking over.

Hopefully once these two issues are over with, I can reassemble all the plastic and test ride it.

 

Nevermind on the charging system. I found where you helped another member that answered my questions.

https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...il-blazer.html

I'm thinking my stator read .9 ohms on the yellow to yellow/red. Is that out of line?

 

No yellow stator wire should zero out to ground either.If they don't I'd just order the regulator as cheap as they are and try it first as most of the time it's regulators that burn out.Voltage Regulator Rectifier Polaris Xplorer 300 Xpress 300 1996 1997 1998 1999 | eBay
Driven clutch spring has to preloaded 1/3 turn then the helix pushed down and circlip installed. Plus kep the spring on the 2-2 setting.

 

Well I got the secondary cleaned up and put back together tonight. Went right back together with no problems. Once I got that done, I set the primary up on the bench and started looking at it. Dont have a clue why I never noticed it before, but one of the weights is kind of rusty and wont swing out at all. That is for sure the problem since as it sits, it only has 2/3 of the force it needs to fully squeeze down the primary. The little rollers and everything else seem to look ok, so im just going to try and free up that weight and then stick it back together and do a little test ride. Im hoping it'll be good to go on the clutch side of things.

I also just ordered a regulator as well. I think that should fix the charging problem.

I have a question on the oil injection. At idle, if I pull the hose off and dont pick up for full flow on the oil pump, I have to keep the hose off for a good while to ever see any oil dribble out. If I pick up on the oil pump arm, it dribbles it out noticeably right away. Is it normal to use that little oil at idle? It looks to me like the cable and pump arm are working and adjusted as they should be. Just want to make sure its getting enough oil, but dont really want to premix it either.

 

The oil pump system doesn't use much oil,calibrated around 50/1 at an idle and up. If you lift the pump arm and notice more oil then the pump is working fine. All you're doing is pushing the pump into max flow,but it's still at a 50/1 ratio same as if you were running wide open on the throttle under normal conditions.

 

Thanks, I can only assume its working fine at this point, so im going to leave it alone. Just makes me a little nervous.

I got the weight on the primary free'd up today and re-installed the clutches and belt and clutch cover. Got all my wiring ran how it needs to be and zip tied up. Re-installed the airbox with new air filter as well. After I got all that done I got to take it on a test ride.

Seems to be running great. It will pull the wheels in high gear with good traction. The clutches are working great now too. Now you can take off and give it half throttle or so and it will accelerate up to 25-30mph at half throttle. Before, it took full throttle and was screaming to go that fast. Much better now. The brakes are working great now as well. Before I cleaned and bled all the lines and installed new pads they wouldnt hold at all, but now it will stop on a dime.

So now, all I really have to do is tidy up the stator wiring and hope the new regulator fixes the charging issue, and then put all the plastic and skid plate back on. Id also like to get the lights working again, since both headlights and the tail light is blown. Shes getting there though!

 

After you hook up the new regulator,just crank it up and get it a little above an idle. Should show around 13.5-14.5 volts at the battery.These older ones didn't really charge until the rpms were up a little.