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scrambler stator

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  #21  
Old 08-27-2015, 07:07 AM
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the side to side movement could be axle nut or bearings i guess but id think there would be up n down play also...ud have to post a video of whats going on to get a better idea...all u dois post a video to youtube then copy n paste the url in the post
 
  #22  
Old 08-27-2015, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 1ArmBandit
the side to side movement could be axle nut or bearings i guess but id think there would be up n down play also...ud have to post a video of whats going on to get a better idea...all u dois post a video to youtube then copy n paste the url in the post

ok never thought of doing it that way .. will try to get that tonight or early tmrw morning
 
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Always have the oversize piston in hand first! The machine shop or dealer can take it from there and have the exact piston dimensions so they can bore and hone the cylinder properly to specs.

ok will order first then before i bring it in..
in your opinion should i get the .020 ... or the .040 ?

is it possble that the cylinder could already be to worn out to get the .020 ? i really i dont know .. lol
 
  #24  
Old 08-27-2015, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by scram5050
ok will order first then before i bring it in..
in your opinion should i get the .020 ... or the .040 ?

is it possble that the cylinder could already be to worn out to get the .020 ? i really i dont know .. lol
Only way to tell is check the piston that's in it. If it's already been bored the piston will show the oversize on top of it. .020 in most cases is well large enough to take care of any egg shaped/ scarred up cylinder walls. No sense in taking more meat out of a cylinder than necessary.
 
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Only way to tell is check the piston that's in it. If it's already been bored the piston will show the oversize on top of it. .020 in most cases is well large enough to take care of any egg shaped/ scarred up cylinder walls. No sense in taking more meat out of a cylinder than necessary.

ok so if i open it and its stock bore should i just go .020 over ? i cant really mesure anything my self i dont have the know how or toools to do so .
 
  #26  
Old 08-27-2015, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by scram5050
ok so if i open it and its stock bore should i just go .020 over ?
Yes.. .020 This is plenty enough considering on some pistons this (.020) is considered 2nd over bore. Some brands of pistons are offered in .010 increments,but Wiseco and some others go in .020. increments. Such as .020,.040.060,etc from stock bore.
 
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Yes.. .020 This is plenty enough considering on some pistons this (.020) is considered 2nd over bore. Some brands of pistons are offered in .010 increments,but Wiseco and some others go in .020. increments. Such as .020,.040.060,etc from stock bore.

oh ok i thought the .020 was thee first size up i guess polaris would offer the .010 but i can also guess the piston and rings they would give me will be alot of money lol so yes ill do what u said and buy the .020 piston and bring it in im almost sure this engine hasent been redone
 
  #28  
Old 08-29-2015, 07:54 AM
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Yes Polaris offers pistons in first (.010) and 2nd (.020) over,but they wouldn't be my first choice to stick back in.Plus as you mentioned they are way more expensive as the pistons and rings are sold separately.Wiseco would be my first choice but expensive too for this forged piston. Nothing wrong with some others out there like Namura,etc if that's your choice.
 
  #29  
Old 09-01-2015, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Yes Polaris offers pistons in first (.010) and 2nd (.020) over,but they wouldn't be my first choice to stick back in.Plus as you mentioned they are way more expensive as the pistons and rings are sold separately.Wiseco would be my first choice but expensive too for this forged piston. Nothing wrong with some others out there like Namura,etc if that's your choice.

ok well still havent gotten around to doing the engine yet i dont really trust my self so my unlce is coming down in 2 weeks and well hes down he is going to help me do it lol

in the mean time just for the heck of it i started up the quad while i was bored and i noticed is has a knocking sound ..now i noticed it before but dident really think anything of it but this time i let it idle and really noticed it now my question is before i go rebuilding the top end and spending a buch of money is there anyway if i can tell the rod bearing are bad or not without taking the top end off any tricks to diagnose without taking anything apart i do not want to rebuild bottem end alsoo so i really would like to know if i can check that out before i go redng the top end and wasting my money lol... geez or maby just piston slap ? from rings being bad or somthing ?
 
  #30  
Old 09-02-2015, 01:51 AM
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Only way to tell is to tear the top end off. Grab the base of the rod and pull up and down. Should have NO up and down movement on the crank shaft.
 


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