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Here are a few pics of the CAM and rockers.
The lobe has a little wear.
I did a rough measurement using a caliper and got about 1.28 on the exhaust and around 1.3 on intake.
Of coarse this was still in the machine, so it could be off.
They don't look worn like others I have seen.
just that nick where that decompression ball is. or what ever that thing is called..
Replace the cam and exhaust rocker arm. Rocker arm has the wear pattern that most show when the cam is eaten up or about to be. Definite wear on the exhaust lobe.Look at the difference between it and the intake lobes.Just a matter of time before it gets worse.
Now you're cooking!! Good pics on EXACTLY how the one plated link fits on the crank sprocket mark and also inline with the case mark.The other two plated links line up on on the cam sprocket dots for perfect cam timing. Hopefully this will show others how to do it right.. Think I'll book mark your pics. PS Get rid of that gawd awful red silicone....
Sorry, The Red silicone was just there during test..
Now I have everything put back right. New Cams and all new gaskets.
BUT.. none of this fixed the issue.
It runs the same.
When its cold, it runs like it should without much issues. once it warms up.. then it will start the sputtering.
Sometimes I can throttle and it works fine, other times it will stumble.
Then when in gear sometimes it will go and other times it will just sit there and move little by little. WOT or not. If you play with the throttle it might clear it up and start moving.
I guess I'm back to the CARB. or something else??
Here are pics of a fresh plug with about 1 minute of throttle play in the garage.
I'll clean up the carb tomorrow again.. any good advice on the choke?
Should I run the choke all the way in and start testing from there?
Any lube or anything to help in that area?
I have the idle mix set at 2 turns right now.
Would moving the Main needle down a notch help?
I also read that the clutches could cause this. I did install new buttons. They look a little larger(longer ramp)than the old stockers.. But they had the polaris number on them.
Bummer.. At least you have the scored up cam out of the way as it was doomed to fail.. Ramp buttons are fine,they improved them over the years,changed colors and design. Rear clutch spring should be on the 2-2 position.. You can see if the choke is working ok by pulling the top cap on the carb and pulling the choke lever. The brass plunger if working right will open and close the small choke opening. You should have a small amount of play at the choke lever on the dash.You can experiment with the slide needle clip position and see if it helps,but may not. It just affects throttle response to about 1/4 throttle. Normally 2nd or 3rd position from the top is ok on the clip. Again look over THIS fuel section from the manual on the carb and float settings,etc.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA If none of this helps this may be an electrical problem..
I believe I might have found the issue.
I was cleaning the carb again and going through it step by step.
When I was blowing it out, I noticed that I was getting bubbles around the base of the Main jet tube.
I have a new Carb ordered.. But will test tonight by using some epoxy around that area. Just to see if it improves.
More than likely un-metered fuel is being sucked from around these area causing it to run rich.
10-26-2015, 09:01 PM
Now you're cooking!! Good pics on EXACTLY how the one plated link fits on the crank sprocket mark and also inline with the case mark.The other two plated links line up on on the cam sprocket dots for perfect cam timing. Hopefully this will show others how to do it right.. Think I'll book mark your pics. 
PS Get rid of that gawd awful red silicone....
