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Newbie Tire Question

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  #21  
Old 04-09-2016, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Zephead98
Thanks! Talked to the shop, they also think some different nuts might do the job (acorn shaped) he called them. Narrow where it attaches to the wheel, and wide at the top so the socket can grab it. Good to know I have options!
Funny how little problems will pop up isn't it... Several possible solutions here.....let us know what you decide to do.....and "git" to riding...
 
  #22  
Old 04-09-2016, 01:13 PM
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Polaris has longer studs for the deluxe ATVs with alloy rims. The dealers should have them if nowhere else does. The type of nut you use depends on the wheel.
 
  #23  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:01 PM
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Well I got the back tires done. Attached is a picture and they passed a great test: I took them on absolutely the worst trail I have ever been on. It was my first time on the trail, and I won't be back, haha! Often water was up to my butt on the seat, full of reeds and tall grass, and no way around puddles ( I tried, and found myself in ever deeper poo)!

Anyways, I am going to have to wait on the fronts. I cannot just pound out the lugs and pound in new ones, there is the disc of the brake right in back. I pulled off the Polaris "plastic center cap", which on the rear hide a large nut with cotter pin that hold the wheels on. When I pulled that cap off the front, a bunch of oil like fluid spilled out, probably something I need to replenish is my guess! There are small bolts behind the disc, but I cannot get enough leverage to get them to move. A project for another day!

Thanks everyone for the help, the rear tires look great, reduce the width (like I wanted) and were awesome on that terrible trail. If you know what that fluid is that spilled out the front tires (I do see a fill plug nearby) let me know so I can refill it.
 
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:03 PM
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Looking good.. Demand Drive hub fluid spilled out.. To refill remove the 5/16" allen plug and fill at 12 o'clock position. Turn to 3 or 4 o'clock to drain excess.A little extra wont hurt. You have to remove the brake disc to remove the old studs. They just knock out,but be careful that you don't brake the cast iron fingers of the hub. Set it between a couple blocks of wood for support. Easy way to install the longer studs is to get them started by tapping part way in with a hammer. Install a nut and use an air gun to zap the nuts tight which will suck the splined studs flush in the hub.Then you can reinstall the brake disc.
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:54 PM
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Yeah...already broke one off. Damn.... I think I was tightening when I should have been loosening. Took it to the shop so they can drill it out and set it up right. Gonna attempt the other side later.
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:55 PM
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Actually I broke one of the bolts that holds the disc on. But I see what you mean about the cast iron fingers....I will be extra careful like you said. I don't have an air gun, but do have a socket wrench that's almost two feet long, so lots of leverage available.

Hope to post a pic once I get the front done!
 
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:24 PM
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Ok, almost home free!
When I pulled the right front hub off, all the pieces came out in pieces, lol! So I had to pull the other completed side, much more carefully, so I could reassemble the left side. Fun!
Last question: the nut on the front axle with the six cuts down the side that you wrap the cotter pin through: how tight should I tighten that? On both sides, once I dislodged the cotter pin, one tiny twist with the socket set and it came free very easy. Finger tight? Or tight as I can go? Somewhere in between?

Thanks!
 
  #28  
Old 04-24-2016, 04:38 PM
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12 foot pounds max on the hub nut.. I always pre loaded the bearings to about 18 foot pounds or so,backed off the nut then torqued to 12 foot pounds.If you have to loosen the nut a tad so the cotter pin can align with the hole that's fine,had to do that quite a bit. Use Demand Drive hub fluid. A bottle will last a long time.
 
  #29  
Old 04-25-2016, 07:17 AM
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Hey Old Polaris Tech,
Thanks for all the replies! A couple more questions:

Only having hand tools, how tight would you say I should tighten down that front nut? Don't strain, strain a little, or real tight then back it off half a turn?
As for the fluid, is there any that should go in the rear end? I pulled those caps and nothing came out.

Thanks!
 
  #30  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Zephead98

Only having hand tools, how tight would you say I should tighten down that front nut? Don't strain, strain a little, or real tight then back it off half a turn?
As for the fluid, is there any that should go in the rear end? I pulled those caps and nothing came out.
Invest in a cheap torque wrench,hub nut too loose causes wear,too tight the awd wont function properly.. With the hubs already dry isn't a good sign. This can either be that it wasn't maintained well or hub or strut seals are leaking. Rear drive just has sealed bearings. Again this is where a cheap manual can help on how this system works. Here's a video that may help some. DON'T lather up bearings with grease like this guy in the video does. Just lube the bearings with Demand Drive fluid or a light layer of grease when assembling.
 


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