2002 700 is grinding into High gear after rebuild on Detent.
Long story short. bought a used bike, didn't drive it but twice and started rebuilding it. I test drove it and it went into high fine, just no detent or foot brake needed. But this also let it jump out of park. So I wanted to fix this.
So I tore into the shift area and found some broken gear teeth etc. looked like someone had used the shifter without using the brake pedal.. anyways got a new detent, spring, gear and put it all back together.

It now goes into all gears but high, it will grind and sometimes it will go in. it is also hard to get it out of low and back into neutral. sometimes I have to stop the engine to get it into neutral.
Also seems to be very touchy when going from a stop to moving in any gear.. really no smooth transition, but more of a gerk. nothing like my 500 sportsman. But I have no time on this bike, so not sure of how this should compare to the 500.

Sounds like a belt/clutch idle issue.
But also wanted to make sure that I couldn't have gotten the shift linkage off a tooth.

A side note, one time as soon as I did crank the bike. It blew out a lot of dust out of the Clutch cover. maybe just dirt that got loosened up since I pulled the cover to inspect the belt.

I'll be checking the belt/clutch/idle. but just want to know if I could have a misaligned the shift linkage when rebuilding that.. not sure if I got the 3 dots lined up correctly. But since it goes to park to high, figured it was right.
Wasn't sure if I'm off 1 tooth if it would allow it to go all the way into high.
Similar to when he linkage is off on the 500 H-style shifter.. it will not allow it to go all the way into gear.

 

One tooth off could be the difference. I did the same thing some years back and tracked it down to that.Retrace your steps,plus you can pull the belt off to take all tension off the gear case to see if that may be part of or possibly the problem.I guess you have the manual as it shows pretty good detail on this. If you don't here's one for a 2003 model that's basically the same for 5 bucks.http://polaris-atv.brssm.com/2003-Po...ce-Manual.html

 

thanks,
I forgot to mention, that it doesn't grind while going into high. only after I give it throttle, like it was never all the way engage into gear and then slips out. This is why I asked if possible to be off by a tooth.
I also tightened the shift rod linkage. just wondering if I got this too tight and would not allow it to pivot all the way?
I'll disconnect the rod and do it by hand to see if that makes a difference.
working on coolant heating as issue as well, so I don't have a lot of time to test shifting before the coolant starts acting up. replaced broken overflow tube and will replace cap and hopefully fix that issue.

 

Well I opened it up and looked at the shift gears.
Everything lined up.

Really can't mess up the right side, since it is double splined for correct location.
And by moving the right side, I could go from High to park.
In park, the 3 dots lined up. and in High I still had 1 tooth left.
I moved the left side up 1 tooth to give another tooth on the high side. All this hsould do is move the shift lever back a little, but might give me a little more throw on the high side to help slap the gears in?

Figured I'd try this and also look at the clutch side. I order a new belt, anything else should I replace while I'm in there?





Park position




High Position

 

If this doesn't solve the problem,then could be those blamed wave springs that can collapse and wide shift forks that I hated in these transmissions.Hope it doesn't come down to that.

 

Well, adjusting the shift gears didn't fix it.. So I pulled the trans out to take a peek inside.
I saw on 1 video that if the high gear should have 1 tapered side and a flat side. and if it was tapered on both side then it would cause it not to go into gear and grind.
It appears that I have the same issue.
OPT, does this appear to be the issue in you opinion.
Also, playing around with the shifter and dog blocks. it seems that the spring may also be worn. when using the shift fork and moving into high. it seems that the shift fork hits the high gear about the same time the dogs engage.

I guess I should replace high gear and the wave springs on the high side?
Also, how do you remove the chain to get the gear shafts apart. is there a trick or do I have to press gears off before the chain can be removed.


Attached pics

 

Gear looks beat up and also looks like it's gotten hot.Always replace the wave springs,plus don't over look the shift fork. If grooved,replace it also. Easier to get the manual on this as it shows step by step on pulling gears.https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....700-atv-repair

 

I put the shift fork on both set of dogs with the springs in place and the High gear set had some wobble/slop between the dogs, like the spring wasn't pressing the dogs out towards the fork. With same shift fork, I put it on the other set of dogs and there wasn't any slop. That tells me the HI side spring is worn out and the forks appear to be ok. no bad grooves or wear marks.
Looks like a $200 fix.
Anything else to replace while I'm there. figures I'll do the shaft seals. all the bearings feel good.

And the trans had been opened before.

 

Don't reuse circlips also. Like I mentioned the wave springs were the cause of a lot of shifting problems besides the external shift gears. Just look carefully at the dogs on the gears,if in doubt replace the gear.Most manuals say to replace the mating gear to any gear you replace. This is up to you,just depends on its condition. Seals are a given,always replace them.

 

As you state, the shift issue is probably due from the weak wave springs and not necessarily the dog edges rounding that the guy mentions in the video I referred to.
If they would have made the shift forks like a car's manual trans, we wouldn't have the wave spring issues. but I guess they did this so they could design with looser tolerances.