i was going to pry out the seal but sounds like you are against that method. guess i will do it the 'right' way and take off the stator. too bad i will have to wait to determine if it's already bent or not.

 

Nope don't make things worse.. Here's some good pics on changing w/p seal on a Rzr 800. Same principle on the 700. Once you get the flywheel,stator and case side off,seals aren't that bad to remove and install.You could unplug the stator and leave it on the case,but it could get damaged that way.Didn't like that way he did that. Step by Step - How to Replace the Water/Oil Pump Seal - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net If the shaft needs to be replace,the double spring loaded cam sprocket had to be removed,4 allen bolts holding the oil pump removed and the pump can be lifted out to be taken apart. Dots have to be aligned back up on the gears upon reassembly.

 

last question. i hear the flywheel is hell to get off. can you reccomend a specific puller from harbor freight i should use? this was my reason for paying for the fix last year

 

Just "borrow" a good harmonic balancer puller from any good auto supply for just a small deposit. Some are tough to remove and you have to be careful not to damage/mushroom the crankshaft end. A little heat from a propane torch around the tapered shaft can also help. If possible,thread the nut on a couple threads so if it does flare the nut when removed can straighten the threads out. Here's the best video I've found on pulling the 700 flywheel.This video was about changing out the Ducati ignition for the updated Kokusan which hopefully you already have.

 

the water pump seal was in there so crooked one piece of the blue strip was barely touching the engine case, it was crazy. I can't believe i paid someone to put that in and they did that. I'm surprised it lasted a year.

the manual says you are supposed to replace the 2 bolts that are behind that stator because they have some stuff on the end so no oil leaks in. I went to a polaris shop but they said they dont carry those bolts, the mechanic there reuses them. The mechanic was not there to tell me what type of sealant to put on the end of these bolts, any suggestions?

 

Use blue locktite on the bolts and you'll be fine.Seals these threads so no oil can pass. That's what I used and didn't have any problems.And yes mechanics reuse these bolts. We don't always follow the manuals word for word

 

Long thread without mentioning what ATV it is. If its a 500,455,425 here is the screw trick that comes in handy. Untitled Page

 

OPT,
sealing the crankcase halves back togethor the manual says: Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557) to the outside
edges of the crankcase halves (See arrows), where the
crankcases mate. (See photos below.) This helps to prevent
coolant leakage.

Did you just apply to those 2 little spots or do you reccomend i coat the whole thing?

 

I've always been of the notion that if a little dab would help,then a whole lot would help even better.. Doesn't always work that way,sometimes too much is just that,too much,but not in this instance. I used a THIN film of Threebond 1104 all the way around the case. I even used a thin film of Threebond to hold gaskets in place.

 

Look at his first post.. He shows a link to a 700 engine w/p gasket and we went from there. Screw trick on water pump seals have been around awhile and some can get by with that on the 500 and 700s,BUT tell that to the people that I had to tear engines apart when they bent the w/p shafts. I very seriously doubt that they'd ever try that trick again after paying the labor bill to replace a 60 buck shaft on either machine. Not too awful bad on the 700/800 engines,but the 500 engine has to be completely taken apart. On the the 700 you just have to take the third engine case off and the spring loaded double cam gear to be able to pull the oil pump out to replace the shaft. The same case that you would have had to have taken off to replace the seals right the first time around..