alrighty ill check all that this weekend I appreciate it OPT you are a life saver.

 

Sorry for not updating anything lately but I ended up getting the head redone and flattened. We'll put new gasket and retorqued and we'll it still getting water into the cylinder and I have no clue how I have took it apart and tried again and still no luck. So what could I look for or do I need to get the cylinder checked and just build the top end BC I know compression is a little low by like 6lbs but it's not bad I just don't know what to do really.

 

That's where magnafluxing can help. You can do it or a good machinist can tell if there are hairline cracks in the water jackets in the the cylinder or head.

 

okay I had him check the head but I guess the case is coming off to get checked now. I appreciate it the help sorry its been hectick few months trying to get my other wheelers up and running as well.

 

Quick question for you, what brand head gasket did you use? I rebuilt my old xplorer a few years ago and when it came time to put it back together I bought winderosa gaskets from All *****. Everything went fine but I was seeping coolant by the head. Took everything apart and found it was leaking through the gasket. Had the head and jug checked and everything was fine so I put another gasket in and same thing. Got ahold of All ***** and they pulled some head gaskets and found they had a problem with the die that punches the gasket so they had a bunch that weren't sealing right. They sent me an oem polaris gasket and I installed it and torqued it and never had a problem since. On the liquid cooled motors I have been spending the extra money and going with the high dollar polaris gaskets for peace of mind.

Hopes this helps,

Mike

 

I appreciate it mike. I used OEM head gaskets but I pulled cylinder off and noticed gasket was wore out but since I got it off I'm going to be safe and have my buddy check the cylinder and head one more time clean it up and then I'll put all new gaskets and top end in it just to insure that it's all good to go but I hope this works this time. I appreciate the replies and help keep it coming I can always use other things to check

 

All right I finally can give an update as I can only do a little by little on this due to work and $$$ being a pain here lately. But got her all put back together I had the cylinder and the head surfaced trued up to ensure a flush surface. Then I got a new piston and rings to install in it due to the other having water sit on it was pretty nasty on top. So after installing this and checking and rechecking everything I can not figure out why the motor will not idle. It sounds like it is flooding but I can not tell for sure. So here is the symptoms When she initially starts up she will idle for 2 seconds and then die But if you hold the throttle wide open for a few seconds and keep it open then shell run but not strong at all. But on the exhaust you can see it getting wet as it exits the pipe so I don't know. I've adjusted the needle up and down I have adjusted cables to specs and lastly I have checked compression and it is reading 115-120 depending on the gauge I use on it. So I am lost I've cleaned the carb and moved needle and everything I just don't know what to do really or where to check.

 

If the carb is clean(rebuilt?) and you've left the reverse limiter black wire unplugged(by the way don't replace this crappy module) couple things it can be. Check the reeds although not a common problem on these splitting or breaking,plus the crank seals. Mainly the seal behind the drive clutch that gives everyone fits when it leaks. Last thing is to make sure you have a fairly snug throttle lever so the etc switch won't kick in and retard spark and kill it.

 

it was cleaned not rebuilt. I was about to buy a kit but decided to ask the questions about it. Because what is really stumping me is the fact that the exhaust is getting soaked but dries very fast kind of of like water or gas is on it but I know the surface's are trued and brand new head gasket to go with it and I know the gasket can only go on one way as well so I am stumped. The reeds I checked and where in specs but I will verify again since its not bad to really get too. How do you check the crank seals? and the etc. is disconnected I haven't final adjusted it I kept having problems when I adjust into specs. I will disable the reverse limiter and try it as well and can I just remove that piece to ensure that it isn't doing anything? I thank you all for the help btw im very new to two strokes so this one is throwing me for a loop

 

Just tape up the black wire. You don't have to remove the module. Leak down test is the best way to check for gasket or seal leaks,but about as easy to just replace them since they are cheap.Shindy make the best carb kits.Shindy Carb Repair Kit For Polaris Sportsman Sport Xplorer 400 4x4 94-95 03-404 | eBay