Milky Oil / still high compression... - Page 3 - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community



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  #21  
Old 01-17-2017, 12:39 AM
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Thanks polaris tech. i pulled the PVT/clutch cover off. engine revs to 6500 in the below video and belts move. Thick layer of dust inside, that wont blow out. needs something more like petrol and toothbrush to move it. There is a rattle in Primary clutch.

I dont have a clutch tool or 2/4-16 rod to pull it, so people showed how to do the water and teflon tape on the original bolt trick. Did now work and now the bolt wont go all the way back in even flat out with my rattle gun, i cleaned out what was left inside with air compressor. put my endoscope up the center to see if threads were stripped etc..

i was hoping to take it apart and see what parts to order


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdtF...ature=youtu.be




this is far as it will go



inside thread
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  #22  
Old 01-17-2017, 09:14 AM
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Plain old cheap spray carb cleaner from Walmart is what I used to wash clutches down after blowing out the loose belt dust. Clutches are on tight and a 1/2" impact is needed. I you don't have the clutch tool you can get a bolt at most hardware stores and use an old socket or short piece of bar stock as an extender.At times a little heat from a propane torch may be needed on hard to pull clutches. Before you do this feel along the clutch guide towers. If deeply grooved from button wear,replacing buttons,etc may not help that much on noise. Plus you need the spider tool to break the clutch down. It's probably cheaper in the long run to have someone that has this tool to either break the clutch down for you or let them rebuild it. Plus the plain bearing on the clutch if worn down has to have the puller to do it right(you can impact it out) but on install you can't knock the bushing back in without damaging it.
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  #23  
Old 01-18-2017, 08:56 PM
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well i think im really screwed now. i put a piece of rod on the inside to push it off the shaft and then the original clutch bolt on top of that to push the clutch off. tried rattle gun, breaker bar and grease. Now stripped the threads off the bolt and cant get the metal rod out from the inside...

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  #24  
Old 01-18-2017, 09:49 PM
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****. i see what i done now. i thought i was trying to push it off with the origanal bolt from the threads at the back but now i see the big threads at the front that the 3/4/16 tool threads into. no wonder. hopefully haven't stripped threads on the inside and just them on the bolt. i wanted to get a 3/4/16 bolt but there is little to none imperial bolts and rods in new zealand. I better to take it to someone who has the puller (pusher).

the sound of the clank is the same as in this video below. He said it was the shims and bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoOUofPi4Tc
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  #25  
Old 01-19-2017, 12:05 PM
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That sound is typical of worn out guide buttons causing the spider to clang against the guide towers. They get quieter when rpms rise,louder when at an idle.
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  #26  
Old 02-10-2017, 05:40 PM
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So i have rebuilt the clutch with a oem kit. The only thing i didn't do was replace the rollers, but they looked ok. I notice now that it is back together - that there is a bit of play on the weights, i can fit a .002 inch feeler gauge down on side....

There is a brand new complete driven clutch on a ebay type website in new Zealand for $100 US, im guessing its worth buying that ??

also how to these thin aluminium shims work ?

thanks
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  #27  
Old 02-11-2017, 01:02 AM
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Might as well try this one since you rebuilt it. I guess you mean the fiber washer behind the one way bearing and the brass washer in front of it in the "cup" as I called it.These are the spacers for the one way.Plus wouldn't hurt to use blue locktite on that plastic jam nut threads as they had a habit of backing off and can cause clutch limiting. If it's shims behind the driven clutch,they can be removed or added to to align the driven clutch to the drive clutch so the belt tracks straight.Might help if you read this.Clutch belt creeping 100 bucks for a new driven clutch isn't a bad price either.
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  #28  
Old 02-17-2017, 09:00 PM
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The reason why it wouldn't go over 30mph . All the brakes are rooted. the bolts broke off the bracket that holds the brake caliper.

Guess i might as well do wheel bearings while in there.

Tie rods all stuffed.

Clutch still clanks a bit - seems like a lot of side to side play in weights and bolts slide side to side.

i got the back hub off where the brake is but cant get the front one off, any ideas, i have done as per the workshop manual but it wont pop off







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  #29  
Old 02-18-2017, 08:09 AM
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Nasty.. This is where a brass hammer is best as far as doing any damage,but looks like this caliper is going to need to be tapped off if it's frozen on the brake disc.You can try to clean dirt and mud as much as you can and use some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.Plus if you can get a screw driver between the inner pad and rotor you may be able to force the pad and piston back enough to get the caliper off.Helps if you take pressure off the caliper piston by opening the bleed valve when doing this.
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  #30  
Old 02-19-2017, 04:42 AM
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Im getting pretty over this bike now, everytime i fix one thing something else breaks.

i have got the rear foot brake working at least.

I took it for a run but clutch is still noisy.
Please have a looka t videos. thanks as always


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