If you disconnect the black wire, what all does that bypass?

 

Disconnecting the black kill wire from the cdi isolates the cdi from the ignition and left control switch kill circuit. If you have spark then,the problem could be in either of the switches or wiring or in some cases the kill wire in the cdi itself could be shorted out. I've found several cdis like that on Sportsmans but not on a Hawkeye.Not saying it couldn't happen though.

 

Missed this post.If the stator was an aftermarket one,that could have been part of the problem.Some were hit or miss as far as working right. As far as the bendix(3089863) on the 300 engine,doesn't show to have a good cheap replacement. Looks the same as the others,but not sure this particular bendix is the same.Ebay shows them for the Hawkeye 400,but again don't know if it's the same since the 400 is a Fuji motor and the 300 I believe was still made by Aeon.

 

so the stator has to be in good working order for the ignition system to fire? or will it start with a bad stator but die after battery is drained? just so i can rule this out of possible problems.

 

Main stator,pick up coil,cdi and ignition coil all have to in good working order. Yes the ignition starts at the stator and pick up coil. Pick up sends the signal to the cdi,cdi to the coil. Also check that that the regulator is working ok. Charging should be around 14 volts at the battery at an idle or slightly above. If it isn't a regulator can take out some cdi modules.This maybe what happened to yours. Also I'd load test the battery,replace it if it fails.
"A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup. Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing."

 

have a year old battery from my jetski on there for these testing purposes will have to get one for the hawkeye if it ever gets running. i was just wondering as to nelsonator "i got it running" post with putting the old stator back on and it fired up. looking at the wiring diagram and ignition system chart in the manual it doesn't look like the stator has a part in the ignition roll. thats all i was wonder if the pulse coil doesn't fix it don't want to just start throwing parts at it blindly.

 

You're correct in a sense that the pulser or pick up coil is a coil into itself separate from the stator.The strip or bump on the flywheel is what triggers the pick up coil charge to the cdi. Maybe this can explain better than I can.
"Some stators include a pulser or pickup coil. This small coil is mounted separately to the motor or to a mounting plate, allowing it to sense the crank angle via one or more small bumps on the outside of the flywheel. The coil must be placed between 0.02 and 0.50 mm away from the highest part of this bump or "trigger". The input from this coil is sent to the ignition computer (CDI), where the spark timing is calculated. Some CDIs are powered with AC power from a specific coil, called a source coil, which is wound with fine wire. Other CDIs may be powered by DC current produced by a stator, regulator/rectifier, and battery combination. The current from the CDI is sent to the ignition coil and magnified to over 10,000 volts. It is then sent to the spark plug."
If you have the manual look at chapter 9 page 12.Shows the cdi crank test(that many machines manuals don't show) along with a voltage output test and ohms test(520 ohms) for the pick up coil itself. The hole in the cdi of Nelsonator1's machine could have been caused by a faulty regulator as that's why when he said he got it running(with a new cdi and regulator) I said to check the charge back to the battery to make sure that it was around 14 volts even with a new regulator.Faulty regulators that can over charge(15 volts or more) can take out a cdi. Stators also can cause a regulator to go south and there are tests for stator also in the manual on this. A general stator check is that there should be some resistance between the yellow wires from the stator leading to the regulator against themselves with no yellow shorting to ground.

 

I had slightly over 14 volts to the battery.

 

With the new regulator? If so still could have been the old regulator blowing the cdi or the cdi just decided to commit suicide.

 

Yes with the new regulator, I put cdi and regulator on at the same time. I didn't want to chance burning up the new cdi with the old regulator.