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85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.

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  #10011  
Old 03-11-2011, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by judas009
hey guys , great news!..sorta lol. well i finally got the engine back together completely form the top end rebuild and was ready to fire it up. but i decided to check my spark with the new spark plug first since i did have to remove the stator to split the case when i discovered a piston skirt was all chewed up. So i tested the spark and nothing, no spark at all. Any ideas what to test and narrow down what my problem is? i do have a theory though.... i seemed to misplace this piece, number 42 on the diagram:Rivamotorsports.com's 1985 Suzuki ATV LT-230GEF QUADRUNNER Parts List you think this switch has anything with the stator relaying power to the cdi and so on and so forth?
alright so after doing some digging i think i might have the problem narrowed down but still unsure. i tested my cdi, stator, and ignition coil and all results came back within the right resistances according to the manual. So now i think its all about the neutral switch. since i lost the contact for between the switch and the shift drum i think that is not letting me get spark. i could be entirely wrong though. DOes the neutral switch on these things have anything to do with spark? or is it more likely that i have a bad ground somewhere. and also i keep seeing in all the manuals that these models have a fuse somewhere. but have never been able to find it. any ideas where it might be located?
 
  #10012  
Old 03-11-2011, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by judas009
alright so after doing some digging i think i might have the problem narrowed down but still unsure. i tested my cdi, stator, and ignition coil and all results came back within the right resistances according to the manual. So now i think its all about the neutral switch. since i lost the contact for between the switch and the shift drum i think that is not letting me get spark. i could be entirely wrong though. DOes the neutral switch on these things have anything to do with spark? or is it more likely that i have a bad ground somewhere. and also i keep seeing in all the manuals that these models have a fuse somewhere. but have never been able to find it. any ideas where it might be located?
You need to have one of those or it wont start im sure you can rig it some how but you shuld buy one to do it right.
 
  #10013  
Old 03-11-2011, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by snow racer
You need to have one of those or it wont start im sure you can rig it some how but you shuld buy one to do it right.
i thought so. but i do remember starting the bike before when it wasnt in neutral so before i buy it im gonna do a little more testing. i did find that even though my kill switch button was moved to the run position the actual switch inside was stuck so i have a feeling its gonna get spark now lol. i just gotta wait for my stator to dry after its cleaning to test it out.
 
  #10014  
Old 03-12-2011, 10:30 AM
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yay good news! just got the bike started for the first time after the rebuild. sounds decent except for a clicking noise. Sounds like the valves need to be readjusted. Also gotta re tweak the carb because it was dialed in for my old setup. other than the thing started up nicely. cant wait to see what it can do at full throttle :P
 
  #10015  
Old 03-12-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by judas009
yay good news! just got the bike started for the first time after the rebuild. sounds decent except for a clicking noise. Sounds like the valves need to be readjusted. Also gotta re tweak the carb because it was dialed in for my old setup. other than the thing started up nicely. cant wait to see what it can do at full throttle :P
make sure the topend gets broke in properly. if its not broke in right it could cause the rings to shift and score the cylinder wall. an old friend of mine had his 230 rebuilt by an atv shop and didn't break his in right and lost the whole topend. it started smokin like a 2 stroke, then lost compression.

go easy on it for a few hours. dont keep it at a constant rpm. make sure when you rev it up to rev it down just as easy. this will get the rings broke in to the cylinder. after about 5 hours of breaking them in you can try a full throttle run but only for a few secs in 5th gear then slowly bring the motor down in rpm. it usually take 8 to 10 hours to get it broke in right. then you'll be ready to really open it up. make sure when you tune the carb make it a little rich. you dont wanna lean it out and fry the rings and valves.
 
  #10016  
Old 03-12-2011, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bigcam400
if you want to run nitrous,motor needs to be built for it,..right piston,stronger rod....an motor has to be tuned for it too,..an fuel system has to be mod'ed to work with the nitrous shot too,..or catastrophic engine failure(really bad chit) will occur...lest thats how it goes on drag cars!!
i dont think NO2 is a good idea on a 230s, maybe a 250s because the rod and oiling system are just upgraded from the 230. the 230 rod stock or not wont handle nitrous. i tried it with one of the most expensive rods and piston you can get an still blew the topend and bottom end apart. my buddy was riding it and still has scars on his calf muscles to prove it. the jug threw pieces of cast alumnium into his leg.

alky is the only safe way to extract the most power and ride your 230 as much as possible to become a better rider. the more you know your 230 the better. i've only had my 230 for a year and almost a half and i ride it every day, weather permitting, for at least 3-4 hours. so i know its little quirks and what it can do.
 
  #10017  
Old 03-12-2011, 02:44 PM
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Omg i thought i had this thing dialed i go to ride it and there is no oil in the oil check window!!! Good filter good oil. Its smokin so bad to. So wats wrong I have no clue when it comes to cooling systems??
 
  #10018  
Old 03-12-2011, 05:07 PM
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spent last 4 hours out working on my LT230quadfrankin runnerstine160....cleaned carb up real good an ran a torch cleaner threw all the jets an orfaces..needle seems to be sticking at bottom,..an broke off choke cable dangalin,...got to fire holdin my hand over back of carb very brefly....thinkin it might have a eletrical issue or 2 now too,..but i think im gonna have to get some help on this thing,..just dont know nuff bout quads!!
 
  #10019  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by snow racer
Omg i thought i had this thing dialed i go to ride it and there is no oil in the oil check window!!! Good filter good oil. Its smokin so bad to. So wats wrong I have no clue when it comes to cooling systems??
did you pull the jug off? because if you did, the oil ring gap may have lined up with the compression ring and it may be letting oil get past, causing the smoke.

additionally, when you do a complete oil change, it'll take a little more oil. plus before you start it, you have to leave the kill switch off and roll the motor over a few times to prime the oiling system and get oil to the topend before you actually fire it up.
 
  #10020  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcam400
spent last 4 hours out working on my LT230quadfrankin runnerstine160....cleaned carb up real good an ran a torch cleaner threw all the jets an orfaces..needle seems to be sticking at bottom,..an broke off choke cable dangalin,...got to fire holdin my hand over back of carb very brefly....thinkin it might have a eletrical issue or 2 now too,..but i think im gonna have to get some help on this thing,..just dont know nuff bout quads!!
a new carb might help or a rebuild kit. the lt160 carb it the same as the 230. and i have an extra carb that i used to run on my 230 before i changed over to alky and 93 octane fuel and had to get a better carb.

and your valves might be out of adjustment too.
 


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