Suzuki Ozark oil? - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community


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  #1  
Old 01-01-2009, 10:38 AM
Weekend Warrior
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Default Suzuki Ozark oil?

Just purchased a low hour 2006 Suzuki Orzark and didn't get the manual with it. What weight oil and how much oil do you use and any brand perferance. Does this have an oil filter hidden anywhere on the engine? Thanks in advance and a happy new year to everyone. Thanks, Mike
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2009, 01:05 PM
Pro Rider
 
Join Date: May 2008
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Default Suzuki Ozark oil?

Hey There!,
First off, welcome to the forum and Happy New Year! My name is Mike as well and I own an 08 Suzuki Ozark 250. First I will explain the oil filter deal the best I can to you...

Alright...

You will need to buy a new oil filter and oil filter O-Ring to replace the used ones.

http://www.bikebandit.com/suzu...0-ozark-2008/o/m17441

If this link works correctly, scroll down and a big picture of the oil filter diagram will appear. Scroll down past that and you will need to order number 8: FILTER, ENGINE O and number 13: O-RING, OIL FLT.

Or if you have a Suzuki ATV dealer near you, you can go order them from there.

First-DRAIN THE OIL OUT OF THE ENGINE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE! This can be done by taking out the bolt that is screwed into the center of the bottom of the engine. You will need to get partcially under the ATV to do this. Be sure to place an oil pan under the engine . The oil pan will catch all the oil that drains from the engine.

If you sit on the ATV like you are riding, the oil filter cap will be on the right side of the engine. This oil filter cap is at the very bottom of the engine on the right side. It is even a little bit below the right side foot brake.

Once you've found it, you will notice that there are 3 very small bolts that you need a socket and socket wrench to get out. In the middle of those three small bolts is a little bit of a larger bolt, but this does not need to be taken out.

Once the 3 small bolts are taken out, the oil filter cap is now ready to be removed. Remove the filter cap slowly with an oil pan beneath the cap as oil will come out of the oil filter once the cap is taken off. Take the cap off slowly and observe how everything has to go back together.

Reaplace the O-Ring that rests in crease that goes around the oil filter cap and replace the filter, put the cap back on the way it came off, and you have successfully changed your oil filter. BEWARE: The bolts that hold the filter cap on are not all the same size. One is really long, so please be sure to put the bolts in the same holes that they came out of. Also, make sure the filter cap holes line up with the holes on the engine, this part can sometimes be tricky.

Please ask me for any help you may need because some of the things I typed may be a little bit confusing to read.

I will explain the oil type in my next reply.
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  #3  
Old 01-01-2009, 01:23 PM
Pro Rider
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 374
Default Suzuki Ozark oil?

As for the oil type:

-22 Degrees F up to 68 Degrees F, you should use 5W-30.

14 Degrees F up to 86 Degrees F, you should use 10W-30

14 Degrees to 104+ Degrees F, you should use 10W-40 to 10W-50

If you live in extremely hot temperatures, let me know and I will give you the other two oil weights for the really high temperatures.

Be sure to pick a high grade oil such as Penzoil (which is what I use).

Now for the long part:

Use oil with an API (American Petroleum Institute) classification of SF/SG or SH/SJ, or with a JASO (Japanese Automobile Standards Organization) classification of MA. Make sure the oil is not energy conserving oil. The API classification bubble will tell you if it is energy conserving or not.

Suzuki Recommends the use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil. This is what I use all year round except for the winter. I change it to 5W-30 in the winter.

Try Penzoil, they seem to make a pretty good oil.

I hope this helped considering it took me about 40-45 minutes to type all this...lol.

If you have any questions or concerns, please let me know!

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  #4  
Old 01-01-2009, 01:40 PM
Weekend Warrior
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Default Suzuki Ozark oil?

This explains everything. Thinks, mike
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2009, 10:03 PM
Trailblazer
 
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Default Suzuki Ozark oil?

The oil filter is located on the same side of the engine as the fill hole. its right behind the little cover hehld on be 3 8mm bolts
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  #6  
Old 03-01-2016, 01:35 PM
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Bikebandit has changed its web site since the original (quoted) link was made. I work at BikeBandit and this is the correct url for the oil filter: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/...8924#sch555707 and the oil filter and -ring are items 8 and 13 on the list below the schematic.

If that gives you any issue, you can start at the http://www.bikebandit.com home page , select OEM Parts, select Suzuki ATV, select 2008 LT-F250 Ozark, then on the left side of the page select Engine, select OEM Parts, and lastly, select Oil Pump. Once again the oil filter and o-ring are items 8 and 13 on the list below the schematic. ( it is actually easier than it writes up...)

Have a great day! Chief

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuziOzark View Post
You will need to buy a new oil filter and oil filter O-Ring to replace the used ones.

http://www.bikebandit.com/suzu...0-ozark-2008/o/m17441

If this link works correctly, scroll down and a big picture of the oil filter diagram will appear. Scroll down past that and you will need to order number 8: FILTER, ENGINE O and number 13: O-RING, OIL FLT.

Last edited by Chief Roth; 03-01-2016 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Additional information
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2016, 02:19 AM
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Since this was over 7 years ago, its likely they don't even own the Ozark anymore. I had one of these myself about 4 years ago. Peppy little quad for a 2wd 250cc utility. The oil filter is pretty easy to get to though. And it takes just under 3 quarts of oil. I forget what I even used. I think it might have been some Valvoline atv oil I bought at Walmart.
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  #8  
Old 03-02-2016, 06:46 PM
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Today I believe any major brand of oil is a quality oil, actually one of the better oils out there and I know this will be hard to believe for many is Walmarts "super tech" oils. I am also a boater and have researched oils for my boat in which actual marine ratings can be more critical than automotive criteria. The walmart brand was equal or exceeded "all" major oil manufacturers in the usa. Having said that I would also add that you should consider a full synthetic oil in your toys. I switched a number of years back and can actually tell a difference in how smooth my toys work and run. Especially air cooled engines which can get quite hot in the summer months. Full syn oil will not break down under high heat load like a dino oil can, in fact one reason you switch to a heavier oil in the hot summer is to increase the oil temp breakdown. You can run a 5w-30 full syn oil from the dead of winter to 100 degree days of summer and get better engine protection tha switching from light to heavy oils a couple times a year. Forget the bunk of allowing your oil to run for 15000 miles, like many advertise as syn oils get dirty just like dino oils so they need to be changed regularly and now syn oils have come down in cost while dino oils have increased in cost so....you can do a full syn oil change for only a couple dollars more than a dino oil change and....your motor will love you for it!!
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2016, 07:30 AM
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I run 0w-40 since with the "0" that means it's good on cold weather starts and the "40" means it can run in hot temps once warmed up. It's a do it all oil. I think 0w-40 is only synthetic. No need to change weights for cold weather or hot.

Here is "Multigrades", and Viscosity explained. Oil Specifications Explained - What does 10w40 mean?

Quote:
VISCOSITY

Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
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