Just purchased a 2003 with about 4000 miles on it and have got some questions on the automatic. When putting in forward or reverse when giving it the gas it seems it takes quite a bit of umphh to get the foruwheeler moving. I removed the cover to check the belt for abnormal wear and was wondering what is to much play in the belt, how much up and down movement should I have when applying pressure to the belt? Also it makes a weird rattleing noise coming from under the cover. I noticed there was some almost like brake dust inside when I took it off im guessing this is from the belt. The fourhweeler does have ITP aluminum wheels and 26 inch tall tires on it. Im assuming this could be some of the sluggish ness I am experiencing. Whats a good upgrade to the clutches on this automatic?Thinking about just a epi secondary spring and rollers. Good or bad idea? Not concerned with top speed as much as I would rather have better low end power.

I know the fourwheeler needs a battery and am going to replace this fairly quick as I think it causes the gauge cluster to do funky things the mph will not work it stays on 0. The N,H,L,P indicator work and it also flashes the temp coolant light sometimes, any ideas what is causing this? Sorry this is so long, hope I can get some ideas on what to fix and make this thing work right.

PS im not really new I used to be on here quite a bit when I had racing fourwheelers, been out of that for a while now and forgot my sign in name.
All help is greatly appreciated

 

I would change the belt if its the stock one with that many miles. I changed the belt on my 500 at 2500 miles. The old belt looked good to me but the new belt sure made a engagement improvement I could feel.
Clean the belt dust off with brake cleaner spray.
If your just doing slow riding like 25mph or less then just leave the ATV in low range (Poor mans clutch kit I call it).

If the front primary wobbles at idle you may need a new bushing. Wobble should go away when gas is applied and clutch moves in in that case.

 

Whats the best belt to get, stock replacment.

 

I never changed the belt on my Yamaha yet but on My Polaris I just stuck to OEM because they did not cost much more then aftermarket belts anyways.

If Suzuki has a insane belt price I always had very good luck with Dayco belts on my Snowmobiles and there in the 120hp range.
Here is a Dayco for your ATV for $32. HP2032 - Dayco High Performance ATV Belt. Fits Suzuki 03 & newer Vinson 500 Auto | ATV Parts | MFG Supply

 

Thanks. I think suzuki wanted like 110 bucks for theres. Ill either go the dayco route or a gates belt. Ive looked the four wheeler over pretty good now. I need ball joints both upper and lower on one side figure i might as well do the other too. Well bearings front/rear both sides. New brake pads front and rear a new rotor and pads. Ive checked out ebay and found most of it. Where do most of you all order parts now that has the best prices i used to use rocky mountain atv a lot, but always hated the 4-5 days on shipping.

 

Got the rear u joint fixed tonite used a precision 391. Make sure you save the old c clips because the ones that come with the precision 391 joint, are to big to use all four. I staggered mine and used a old one on one side followed by a new one on the other seemed to work well.
Does anyone have a good link showing how to remove the belt and replace it?

 

This is for a Polaris but its how I do it for my snowmobiles(All Makes) as well. Jerk the belt up in the middle and walk it off.

 

I’ve never changed a Vinson belt, Suzuki GB didn’t import many, though my boss’s son had one for a couple of years, loved it but the frame kept braking up. I have changed both Eiger and 750 King Quad belts, so this is how they go. Take the footwell cover off and the footpeg. Disconnect the footbrake cable at the pedal end, and the springs and let the pedal drop out of the way. Remove the belt cover. The KQ had an outrigger bearing housing, I don’t think the Eiger did, anyway the housing was held on by three bolts and once they were out it just pulled off. Suzuki are most insistent you take the dowels for this housing out of the engine case, I suspect that’s because, if they dropped out, they would disappear behind the inner belt cover. Remove the centre nuts on both pulleys, pull the outer front pulley off the crank, making sure the roller assembly stays in one piece, pull the driven pulley off with the belt. Clean the pulleys and dismantle the roller assy, taking careful note of how things go, and clean that. On the Eiger two threaded holes are in the outer driven pulley and you can run bolts down them to spread the pulley halves, on the KQ you just had to beat the new belt down into the vee with a soft hammer. The King Quad belt had a direction arrow on it so, if it has, ensure the belt is on the right way Re-assemble everything, taking care the splined part of the roller housing engages on the crankshaft splines before tightening the nut up.
The speedo sender unit is usually on the alternator cover check it for damage.

 

I never done a Suzuki but I thought all belts were made to be changed in 5 minutes on the trail.
Not counting the time to take belt cover off and back on.

 

Got all the u joints replaced to night and let me tell you if you haven't done this before make sure you have your patience with you when you tackle it. Got one set of rear wheel bearings in figured id do the right side when I get the new rotor and pads. Have the front wheel bearings as well but guess ill wait and do all that when I get my u- joints.

I hope a belt never has to be changed on the trail because id say it would be a trip, I just used a impact and took both nuts off the primary and secondary clutches and removed it that way. Id say you possible could walk the belt off but, I would say it would be a pain.