I have the left side crankcase cover off to check my stator and flywheel. Everything seems to check out fine, but I was wondering if the stator pickup coil is supposed to be magnetized. it seems to me, if the magnetism is spinning past it constantly, it would be. Mine is magnetic. Just thought I would ask before I put the cover back on.

Thanks guys!
Jackie

 

Here's the definition of a pick up coil. "A magnetic pickup is essentially a coil wound around a permanently magnetized probe. When discrete ferromagnetic objects—such as gear teeth, turbine rotor blades, slotted discs, or shafts with keyways—are passed through the probe's magnetic field, the flux density is modulated. This induces AC voltages in the coil. One complete cycle of voltage is generated for each object passed." Yes basically it can be magnetized. Some ever so slightly,some just like how a screw driver can be magnetized as if it comes in contact with a permanent magnet. Basically as the flywheel turns around the stator it creates an electrical pulse which is triggered by the pick up coil when the raised portion of the flywheel passes by it.This ac signal is sent to the cdi and then to the coil where it's magnified.That's why when pick up coils are are type that can be adjusted,non magnetic brass feeler gauges are used to check the gap between it and the raised portion on the flywheel.Plus to generally check condition of a pick up coil there is a resistance range shown in the service manual as to where they are strong or weak. Here's a good video on how critical the gap is and how voltage can be affected. Here's a good breakdown to read on how stators and pick up coils work. http://racetechelectric.com/ft-752-p...n-systems.html

 

Normally the cover does not need to be removed to check the stator or pulse coil. Just curious as to why you removed the cover. And I'm glad they checked good for you..

 

Old Polaris Tech.....thanks for the great explanation of the workings of the pick up coil. It all makes sense now. Great video too! The way my pick up coil is set up, there is no way to move it unless you grind the little tabs off where it sits in the bracket to hold it. Apparently it's set perfectly at the factory.
Thanks again! :-)
Jackie

 

I'm having issues with my quad starting and running anywhere from 5 seconds to 5 minutes before it shuts off as though I switched the ignition off. I have checked every thing I could on this quad with a multimeter, and I can't seem to find the problem. I've been checking posts re: issues with magnets in the rotor/flywheel coming loose which would cause this problem. Then, I found this video:

Arctic Cat 400 4X4 Ignition Problem (Flywheel Magnets) | How To Save Money And Do It Yourself!

This is exactly what is happening with my ATV and I believe Arctic Cats use Suzuki engines in their machines. It all just seemed tooooooooo familiar! So, that's why I spent 8 hours taking my 1988 Suzuki LT-4WD apart and putting it back together. And, trust me..... I hope I NEVER have to do THAT again! LOL!!!

Thanks,
Jackie

 

You are sure it isn't "shutting off" at the ignition switch. Suzuki ign switches can go bad and switch themselves off. Other causes, a faulty ignition coil can break down as it warms up, as can a spark plug or CDI. Or the carburettor not getting enough fuel. Intermittent faults are the worst to fix.

 

Thanks for the input, Merryman :-)

Chasing down this problem is not a new game for me, with this machine. I have a HUGE thread in 2009 for almost the same problem. I repaired one wire and the bike has been starting and running perfectly for almost 7 years now. I have a brand new ignition switch, a new coil/wire/boot, and plug. It loses spark after starting and running for 5 seconds to 5 minutes. If I keep cranking, I flood the carburetor. It has to be either a wire shorting out (again) or perhaps the CDI is heating up or something like that. Once I lose the spark, it won't spark again for an hour or so. Several times I have lost the spark, but kept cranking, and it produced a few weak sparks a few seconds later, before quitting completely again. Today, I plan on checking the same area that was the problem before. I have checked this several times, but it never hurts to check it again, right?

Thanks again,
Jackie

 

^^^^^^^^ much of what he is saying and as mentioned, intermittant problems are difficult to find. In regards to the magnets and rotor/flywheel. Yes a common problem with 2004 to 2006 400cc engined Eiger and Arctic Cat ( Suzuki engine ) but not very likely on your older Zuk. I would recommend leaving the plastic off, running it till it fails, then quickly check spark...then fuel.
Question for you. When it dies, does it act like the ignition was just turned off ( instant die ) or does it begin to miss/sputter, then die?

 

Arctic Cat did use Suzuki engines,not sure if they still do,but this is where a service manual for your machine comes into play. It may not show all trouble shooting areas to check,plus as mentioned if it's an electrical short they can be troublesome,but no need of tearing an another atv engine down to try to find the problem on a different machine.. Get a good manual on ebay in pdf form or hard copy.

 

I planned on keeping the plastic off until the problem is corrected, and again.. it is not a fuel problem.

To answer your question, as I believe I posted previously, it dies just as though I switched the ignition off.... no spit, no sputter. I put a brand new switch on the bike and it's still doing it. I'm thinking, if I can't find a wiring issue, that it has to be the CDI.. even though it tests good per the Suzuki Service Manual.