Last weekend I went to work on the carb and noticed a primer **** on the carb. I tried it a couple of time and it helped temporarily start the engine. I decided to disassemble the carb and noticed all of the junk inside of the bowl. I cleaned it up and reassembled, tried to start but no luck. I took it apart again and noticed that there was no gas to the bowl because everything was bone dry. Could there be an electrical problem with a fuel pump?
Still having no fun

 

Brancher, there is no fuel pump on the 400. Just gravity from the tank to the carb. Check the fine inline fuel filter where the fuel inlet goes into the side of the carb. Be carefull, it is very small and fine, so damage can happen. It is white nylon screening. Blow it out and continue to check out the carb. I srongly think you have a stuck needle valve and it is not letting in the fuel. My biggest problems I have is my needle gets corrosion from the crap gas that is made today with ethenol. HUGE PROBLEMS!!!
If you have read my earlier posts, you can see that I have to take my carb apart about every 6 months or so to clean out the needle valve. I am getting pretty fast with this and will not take it to a shop to have it done. 2.5 hrs. from start to finish, so far. I am using Starbrite fuel stabilizer right now, so will see how that works. Also, Seafoam is another good product. I stay away from Stabil.
Hope this info helps you out.

 

Old Dog, thanks, is there somewhere online that I could find a schematic of the carb? also, when I had the carb apart I couldn't see the functionality of the float, it didn't seem to move anything (needle, spring) nothing that would show me how it allows fuel into the bowl.

 

Brancher, I do not have a tech manual. I just learned by taking the carb out and took it apart. The float should have the needle valve connected on the rear of the float. The only way to remove the float and needle is to take a very small punch and push the pin out that thefloat rotates on. It will only come out 1 way. Be carefull and try to remove the pin. One end of the pin is splined to hold it in. Drive that end out. Then the float and needle will come out of the carb. Inspect it very close for junk on the needle. I use 2000 grit wet/dry paper and clean the needle of crap and then reinstall it back in. You should see it move freely. Then reassemble the carb. Did you find the little fine mesh filter on the carb inlet? Hope all of this helps you out. Feel free to write me back.

 

Old Dog, it all makes sense, thanks for the info, I'll try to get the pin out, it gets scary because the float is made of plastic, I did see the fine mesh strainer, got it clean. Hope it works, I'll let you know, thanks again,

 

old dog, I've been having a problem with one of these 400 Ranchers, and the symptoms would indicate fuel starvation, idles fine and bogs when revved.

i was trying to fine the inline filter you referred to in this post, but I can't find it. I've followed the fuel line from the in/off valve on the tank to the side of the carb, nothing. I've even opened the carb, not something I wanted to do but hey, pin out, float out all reasonably clean.

is there a filter at the tank or on/off valve??

thanks,

Sam

 

Almost every manufacturer tells you to drain the carb if not being used for long periods of time. Either run it out or many carbs have a drain on the bottom. Next thing is to run an ethanol fuel treatment. I f your currently having problems you may have a build up inside the fuel tank so clean it thoroughly, including the shut off valve and filter. If you machine does not already have one, add an inline fuel filter and change it every 6 months, they are only a couple bucks. In my area we have been forced to use ethanol fuels for many years but I treat all my engines except my daily driver with blue stabil and have had no issues and I have lots of motorized toys. Unfortunately we are now required to do extra maintenance with these ethanol fuels so....do the maintenance or do the repairs....which will it be??