New here so hopefully I'm doing this right. 2001 xpedition 425 (foot **** model). Out riding tonight, got stuck and after I got it out I shut it off. Went to start it and had nothing. No neutral/reverse light, head/tail light, start switch, speedo. But when I pull start it starts right up and runs no problem. Checked what I could for plugs and connections. Tried cleaning the kill switch. But when I checked the circuit breaker I was getting shocked off of both poles(breaker wasn't bad). Any idea or leads on what to start with?? Please

 

Fully charge and load test the battery.If it fails the load test that could be why you may have voltage through the circuit breaker,but voltage may drop to where it's not enough for the starter and lights.Or the 20 amp circuit breaker may be getting weak. Slice the pouch open and replace it if in doubt. You can get these at at any auto store. You don't need a battery to pull start these old magneto triggered ignitions.Most will recoil start fine.Battery is only for the starter lights,fan,etc.If you get it started check voltage back to the battery. Could be a faulty regulator or simply a loose regulator wire if you're not getting at least 14 volts.

 

thanks for the reply. So I load banked the battery and It drops to 10 volts. So I think that I should be good. I just replaced the voltage regulator 2 rides ago. I bought an eBay one, I don't know if that matters or not. I will check voltage back to the battery while running later on. But I can jump the selinoid and it fires right up. I'm thinking I might have a short in the harness some where. When I was grabbing the circuit breaker I was getting tingling shocks.
Also if the bike is running shouldn't the magnetto power the lights and 4x4? It did last time before I changed it but just wasn't charging the battery.
Thanks

 

Bump

 

Under a load a battery should be between 9.5-10.5 volts so it sounds ok.After market regulars like stators are hit and miss as far as reliability,yes check charging out."IF" power is at least reaching the dash,starter etc,even with a dead battery lights would brighten and dim from stator out put,but that again depends if the voltage is making it that far.. Still sounds like possibly the 20 amp circuit breaker is not allowing power to the left control switch and ignition switch,which sends power through the small wire to trigger the solenoid,or the left control switch could even be the problem. These I've had to replace over the years.It's just a process of elimination. You've eliminated the battery,move on to the circuit breaker.If it's good,12 volts passing through,then check into the left control switch first.This switch can also cut power to the dash,starter and lights.

 

thanks for the reply. So I found traces everything and found my problem and believe I found the cause. First off I rushed into taking apart the left control switch and bye by springs! So I ordered a new one of those already but that had corrosion on it. So next I realized the key switch wasn't transferring power from the red wires to the red and black wires. So I had nothing to lose so I took the key switch apart also and found the jumper had been melted and wasn't making contact. Then I kept searching for a cause. Found my fan was froze up from the mud. So I believe that was my culprit.

 

Under a lot of searching, I took apart the left control switch and found it to be a bit corroded. Cleaned it out... and lost the spring inside. So ordered a new one of those. So on to the next component. I opened up the key switch and found my problem. One of the jumper terminals had melted and wasn't making contact. And I figured something had to have caused this. So upon more searching I found my fan was not rotating due to being full of mud and sand. So I'm thinking that was the root of my problems.

 

 

Water,mud and dirt is the enemy of electronics.Left control switches were usually the main culprit when power is cut to the dash,lights,starter,etc,but sounds like yours is a combination of things. Not many people have luck tearing apart control switches as brass parts can corrode over time plus parts fly out when you crack them open.
Fans usually don't cause switches to fail,they can do that on their own. When you replace parts use electrical grease in the connectors to at least help slow moisture damage.